wild foamy

Goff!, just where the heck you think you have been?!, you left me all on my lonesome with these lot, do you realise the mental scarring i have now incurred?... not happy Goff, you will have to erm, make it up to me somehow... x hope you can make it to the next squires/whatever meet, i owe you a few drinks, not that im trying to get you drunk or anything... :|... ah shit...

im currently in Reading for the next two years, but i dont mind traveling. reminds me so much of my little Plod, i really miss that bike, even if it did burn the baffles out of the exhaust, chew up 2 big bore kits and i drowned it in a lake...

thats absolutely shite drewpy , i'll buy you a beer if/when i see you in the future to drown your sorrows (Squires '11?)

would not reccomend building your own flywheel, especially at those sorts of speeds, its likely you will end up wearing it. my money would be on advancing the ignition timing, but dont quote me on that

if/when your looking to sell it next year and your ready for a big bike, pm me first and i will line your palm with whatever silver you want for it. reminds me of my little Plod, god i miss that bike... G237MYA where are you now?

welcome to the forum buddy , good to see another forces person on here

okay mate, lots of trouble there... on my DT i could do 30 easy uphill, 20 seems to be a bit low (although i weigh 65kg, about 9.5st ) if the head gasket is knackered or the studs are loose you should be able to hear it blowing from the head (mine worked loose on my DT and when it was cold under full throttle it would occasionally pop), on these little engines it is essential that they are sealed up correctly or else they just wont work correctly, the gasket between the bore and crankcase can be manufactured out of ordinary gasket paper available at any good auto parts store. the black marks on your piston indicate that it is blowing past the piston rings which is definately not a good thing, best thing i can reccomend is a bore kit change, you can pick them up off ebay for about £40 and it will give you a new bore and piston and is very easy to do any more questions let me know, i used to have a DT50MX and god i really do miss it

got there in the end, the original seals were glued in with some sort of sealent, nearly put my shoulder out trying to seperate the leg from the stanchion. thanks for the input but thankfully my usual method of brute force and ignorance came through in the end. now, how much oil do i put in each leg?...

fuck!, why have i only just seen this?... its right on my doorstep, and having just been payed out £1k for my car, its within my budget!... ah well, maybe next time...

hi everyone. i can see this XJ turning into another Jawa project :/ the only thing standing between my XJ and an MOT are the fork seals, i have now got round to stripping them down and doing the seals but i cant for the life of me seperate the stanchion from the fork leg!, ive taken the cap off, spring out and the other thingy, taken the allen screw out of the bottom of the fork leg but it still wont come out, feels like there is something else holding it in there. any input appreciated -Steve

no sympathy from me either tbh, if a person chooses to nick a bike, thats just asking for trouble, if a person choose to ride without a helmet, thats just f*ckin stupid, but if a person chooses to do both? on their head be it, all this health and safety and human rights stuff is getting in the way of natural selection...

mods please delete... the problem has been remedied... how was i to know the cover came off to reveal a screw?...

hi peeps i am now starting to remedy th elist of faults produced during my '89 XJ600s' MOT, the mudguard has now been secured with a custom bracket fabricated to hold it in place, fork seals have arrived, waiting to be changed. now the headstock bearings, they arent notchy but they need adjusting... how do i get to them to adjust them? i can see one of the nuts on the top of the headstock but i cannot get to the locknut which (i assume) is on top of it under a small plastic fairing between the handlebars which i cannot see a way of removing. help? -Steve

worn detent plunger/selector forks i imagine, my DT had a habit of doing that if i thrashed it and it got upset. also make sure the clutch is fully pulled in and you push the gear change lever fully upwards as i found i was pulling the clutch lever in so the clutch was still lightly engaged (smoother transition) and tapping the lever upwards

Hey bud, thats a nice bike you got there, reminds me of my old '90 DT50 *sniffle* from my experiance it is not worth changing to LEDs, i only blew one tail lamp in my whole year and half of owning my DT and as mentioned above the LEDs will project light in a much more narrow angle and so from different positions may be less visible than a conventional bulb. btw, dont spose your looking to sell your DT in the near future?... just curious...

i think it was JimR who sent me an article about using epoxy resin to fill in the pits and then sanding them down, which may be a possibility if i cant find a replacement set, atleast for a short term fix

already have insurance, £288 fully comp for a year, compared to £1800 for my car... but where can i find a good set of used front forks?... ive tried ebay and its just not turning up anything of interest...

reminds me of my old DT50... *sniffle* very tidy bike bud, and a steal for that price

Got in from work and had a voicemail message on my phone: "Mr Mortimer, i have the MOT test results for your XJ600 and unfortunately it has failed quite badly" a quick phone call revealed that it had failed on: NS fork seal leaking oil OS fork seal leaking oil bulge in front tyre caused by partial seperation or failure of its structure front mudguard free to rub on front tyre (not sure if that is my fender extender or the mudguard itself...) front mudguard insecure head bearings have excessive free play new seals and a new front tyre are on order, i can fabricate a bracket for the front mudguard and possibly tighten up the head bearings as they aren't notchy, one comment they made was that the forks are pitted, but nowhere near as badly as the jawas forks are!, im trying to source a second hand useable pair but i dont know where to look, eBay hasn't really turned up much of interest, are there any other places i can find a used set of forks? alas, i will have to wait a while longer to play with my new toy

my dear old '89 DT50 MX, "Plod", because thats what it did, was never in too much of a hurry, would throw a hissy-fit if you kept it above 45mph for too long and the cat would go missing for days on end if i started it up outside the house, but nevertheless that bike was once taking me from Aylesbury to Newbury (70 miles each way) every weekend, and no matter what the weather it would always start without putting up a fight and take me home. '94 Jawa 640/350 - "Agro", because thats all its given me since ive had it. as of yet my '89 XJ600 has yet to earn its name... but i really want my DT back... why did i ever sell it! >.<

oh, im still going around Ireland, just need to find out what day they have their summer. squires is a no-can do, too far away for me and i have prior commitments :/

drained off the excess oil and took it for a 8 mile ride, no oil leaks, no problems, sorted

have a haynes book of lies but its at home, have looked underneath but cant find any form of plug, only one i can see are the plugs on either side of the crankcase

not that i can see

Okay peeps I have come to the conclusion that I have overfilled it with oil, as some bright spark sprayed over the sightglass when spraying the covers now, when I try and drain the oil through the torx headed plugs directly below the cylinder head on each side of the crankcase there us a very small amount of oil coming out, after turning over the engine and the process repeated then again only a small amount of oil cones out... Am I doing something wrong here?