wild foamy

hmm... you do have a good point... will leave it for now

ah, now that is something worth considering... can't think why i didnt think of that sooner... perhaps a bit of a senile moment...

the one thing that is going to be a real cost is accomidation, if we are over there for two weeks paying 40 euros each for accom its going to be near 600 euros (£500). so instead we have both decided to take small tents and do some "real touring", but if we can find a small local Inn that does cheap nightly rates we may opt for that we're planning to take 600 euros each in cash and keep a further £500 in our bank accounts so if needs be we can make withdrawals from our debit cards

yeh i was planning to use a 12v cigarette lighter type charger for charging my camera and phone e.t.c my phone is 3.7v and my video camera is 7.2v, both are Li-Ion batteries so im not sure i would be confident DIY'ing chargers

will see what i can do for ya. i didnt fully think it through, got as far as adding a 6v regulator in parallel with the rest of the 6v system.

okay, how about running a 6v regulator on parallel from the mag and then using that stable 6v voltage to get up to 12v?

but thats the thing, the mag is 6v and so is the battery, but would it be possible to step it up to 2v at the expense of reducing the amperage output? alternatively i could carry a small 12v Lead-acid type battery (7ah or around that) and run everything off that, just a matter of keeping it charged without getting into expensive solar panels and the like

oh, so it can't be done? this is all in prep for my ireland tour, i want it to get everything sorted now so that i know it works and i can test it out before i go... and tbh i dont want to have to keep changing batteries all the time, especially if its something like a video camera.

okay, any idea how that would look as a schematic?. would the 12v regulator work if the input voltage was less than its output? not sure where the rectifier would come in though, was planning to wire it straight onto the battery (which although is not very big, is constantly being fed by the mag) then using an isolator switch to cut the 12v feed when the engine is static. so wouldnt the battery be providing a DC voltage?

well i am still planning everything out, i have about 6 months to wait and my mate gets his bike mid-january and he seems very interested in going . ive got a little route map planned out, also have planned things like routes back to dublin in emergencies, fuel stops, B&Bs/hotels, Garages/repair shops, places of interest and also timetables for ferries and all sorts of other things e.t.c. also like the look of the Oxford 1st time luggage set or the Buffalo getaway luggage set, which set is better for touring? (i would personally prefer the buffalo touring tankbag but the set only comes with the sports one... also both are the same price so ywould like to hear your personal opinions. Oh, and NO brokeback mountain jokes oh, and i wont be doing the 4 hour non-stop trip form Newbury to Liverpool to catch a ferry, was thinking of sticking the bikes on a train at Reading and then jumping straight onto the ferry when the train arrives at liverpool

considering the ebay kit is about £20 cheaper form yambits i may go with that, but i would rather have more displacement (in the polini kit) however if it is the kit which you had (which was poo) then i will stick to the 43mm ebay kit im familiar with running-in engines as i have various model cars and planes which use I.C engines, although they only take about an hour or two to run-in

sorry to hear it was nicked, there are some real assholes out there... smallest back sprocket available through my yamaha dealer is 44t, so i am having to go higher on the front sprocket to gear it up even more. any particular reason you went for a DT100 coil? will also change the seals, gearbox oil, spark plugs and bearings whilst im at it, just so i know it is in A1 condition (i am a bit obsessive, yes)

hi there all. im looking to build a simple 6VDC to 12VDC step-up transformer for using things like phone chargers and camera chargers from the 6v supply on my bike. i know i wont get high outputs but i am looking to get something like 400mah out of it. i have basic knowledge in electrical engineering but i need a bit of help drawing up a schematic diagram. anyone have any ideas? regards Steve

i can do most things (change brakes, tyres, e.t.c) so am confident with that sort of thing, but my knowledge fo carbs and fuel systems doesnt really go beyond air intake and jet sizes. i dont want the bike to be completely cannibalised so that it goes like sh*t off a stick but ceases up after 2'000 miles, i just want it to go a bit quicker and have enough power to get me around ireland without dropping to 30mph at every incline. hence why i am giving it an overhaul at Xmas to get everything checked out to make 100% sure it is in good shape for when the time comes to go touring. the brakes and tyres don't need to be changed yet, but i will change them anyway as they were on it when i bought it and i've no idea how long they have been on there. the devil you know is the best devil

well you have more experiance with bikes so i ill follow your advicen leave it for now. once i get paid the bike is having a complete overhaul over Xmas, new tyres, brake shoes, clutch, big bore and a few other bits and pieces to tart it up a bit. the original reeds will be replaced with fibre reeds so i wouldnt think snapping them would be such a problem

Just had a look in the garage and have seen that the original carb goes over the manifold on the reed block and is held in place by a jubilee clip. so would the second item (with the rubber boot) work?

Ah i understand now thing is i am trying to get my DT50 to hit atleast 50mph but still have enough power left to get up hills and tthe like whilst laden with a bit if luggage (prepping for my ireland tour, lol) i can go for a 13t sprocket on the front (currently running 12t) and a 44t on the back (currently a 45t) and will be adding a Polini 65cc kit to help it pull to top gear, with the stock 50cc barrell it will pull to about 40mph, but if i put a big bore kit on i want to add a bigger carb to let it breathe better and get best results from it. is there a place i can get a carb that will fit but not at a rediculous price? EDIT: found the same item being sold by a differente seller, this features a rubber boot/adaptor thingy to go on the carbs' internal manifold and connect it to the reed blocks' internal... erm... manifold? O.o http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCOOTERS-RACING-CARB...%3A1|240%3A1318 as you can see im new to all this engine and carb lark... all a learning curve though

is that not a reed block on the underside of the carb?, i've been and had a look at my DT carb and it does look very similar... in regards to removing the autolube then if that is the case i will find a different carb which does not require the autolube to be removed, purely because i am lazy and like the conveniance of not needing to ready-mix the oil have emailed the seller and am awaiting a response EDIT: my jets are around 80-90 sized as i am running a bigone exhaust and K&N style air filter and the mixture is now just about right (not exactly sure on size though)

hi everyone. am looking to upgrade the carb on my DT50MX, i think the original is 14/16mm or something like that but most 50cc performance carbs are 21mm. so i got looking on ebay and came across this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OKO-21mm-RACING-CARB...%3A1|240%3A1318 would this work with my DT50MX? regards Steve P.S. i am already running a bigone expansion pipe and exhaust and plan to add a Polini 65cc kit, i understand re-jetting will be required and i am happy to do that

ive got one mate coming with me for deffo, also got a little top-box which my dad gave me (apparently it came off a mobility scooter we had years ago) just need to fit a bracket and bolt it to the luggage rack on the back of the bike. anyone know if tail packs can be mounted on pillion seats? i want to go NOW!!!!...

have taken it out on a spin recently and it was fine, all up and down the box no problem, methink it didnt like the way i was changing gears, i used to syncronise it all so i let off the throttle as i pulled the clutch in and lifted the lever at the same time, now i drop the throttle and pull the clutch in, wait until i have lifted the gear lever to engage the gear and then returned it to the middle position before i let the clutch back in and apply the power. dont know whats happened there then... nevertheless, will pull it out and have a look-see, i dont want to have to stick a whole new lump in as then i have problems with the numbers not matching up on the engine/frame and replacement engines are not easy to find, only ones i have seen are usually incomplete and shagged out

okay, so assuming i get myself a haynes manual and get the bike apart okay, would i be able to order a new drum and/or selector forks through my local yamaha dealer? (Probike)

okay, well im taking the bike off the road and will probably pull the whole engine/transmission assembly out of the bike frame so i can get a good idea of what condition the seals e.t.c are in. how do i split the cases? Whilst i'm at it i may aswell do a complete overhaul of the entire bike, im talking new brake shoes, new tyres, new wheel bearings, possibly even a big bore to help cope with the gearing i've put on it (does struggle a bit uphill)

clutch was adjusted when i put new levers on it so that seems fine in regard to the detent spring where can i find a new one?, the bike is going for its MOT next week and i would ideally like to get it sorted out as soon as i can. ProBike will probably take 3 weeks to get one in, or longer... also, is there a replacement drum or selector on the market that would fit it? i will pull the side off the gearbox in the morning and have a look-see

hi everyone. over the last few weeks i have been riding my 1990 DT50MX and occasionally (usually in 3rd/4th gear) when changing up it will just not go into gear but instead stick in a neutral sort of state (disconnected from the final drive, engine free-revving) usually until i repeat the process where it will usually skip the gear altogether. its getting more frequent, on my ride home from work today it did it 3 times (over about 5 miles) and often when i go to park up it wont select neutral and goes straight to 2nd. whats the problem? i dont want to leave it to get any worse as it will no doubt cost me in the long term (i.e. new gearbox)