wild foamy

Yamaha DT50MX Reliable, goes forever on a gallon of fuel, easy to fix/get parts for. and best of all... ... it is mine, it belongs to me and it gives me my freedom to roam where i want and when i want

room for a DT50?

theres some thick people about for sure, why would they even begin to think that they could port and polish their own car and then admit to having no mechanical knowledge

did you make a claim for the damages on the drivers insurance?. some people shouldn't be on the road at all, half of them give you some bs SMIDSY and blame you... f*cking idiots . is the XJS repairable?

i'd quite like to jack my DT50 aswell, will watch this thread with interest...

lol, i finished my test at 4PM, was back home by 4:30PM and got on the internet and did my insurance straight away, was on the road by 4:45

this has had a bigone exhaust and expansion chamber and also a performance air filter so i would probably have thought it will rev a bit higher now that i have opened up its airways a little. many thanks for your help, will look into finding myself an RD50 speedo cable and rig one up in the new year

oh, and what/where is the red line on the RD/DT50MX engines?, says in my Haynes manual that the RPM Peak is at 4,000 RPM, but that probably isnt at the red line.

if i can find a small rev counter, even just an aftermarket one that clamps onto the handlebars i wouldn't mind. is that the rubber bung towards the back on the right hand side of the engine?

i could really get into classic motorbikes, nothing like coming out of the garage smelling of two stroke oil and covered in grease will hopefully drop the block out today after work and if i get time may start fitting the new one, out of interest, anyone know if i should open the reed stops?, if so how far?

Hi everyone. Would like to add a rev counter to my DT50MX like they do on some of the RD50s' and was told the DTs' block was machined to take the rev counter drive but just didnt have the attachment nescessary to do so. so, where abouts can i find the rev counter drive on the engine block? (pics would be helpful) regards Steve

... not quite sure i get it... plenty of grass stains and scratches on itnow where i've been ouncing off kerbs...

yeh im fitting all new shoes and tyres to it before the big bore, its all fine being able to go 50mph but i want to be able to stop it, LOL

hi everyone. im happy tonight, 'cus i just got 50mph out of my wickle yammy DT50MX!, and all it cost me was £7 for a 14t front sprocket to replace the 12t one i was running. feels much quicker but it really does need the big bore now because when i change up a gear it will drop off the powerband and take a while to pick up again. should be nice for those back roads and cruising around ireland

i did mine with Bike2Bike and they were quite good, the bloke took a look at my lid, looked at the label (made in 1994) and strongly suggested i use on of their ones, they aren't that bad, atleast it was shiny and not caked with flys (tribute to my dads honda fireblade, he didnt bother cleaning the bugs off before giving it to me) oh, and we stopped at burgerking for lunch, lol

Holy shit was it full of fuel at the time?, would have made a big bang surely... any idea what caused it? shame to see such a sweet bike go up without any real reason . is it an insurance pay out? as i think that is probably covered by "Fire and theft" policies

last time someone called me spethul it was because i was licking windows... i would think gearing is the way to go. ive gone up as high as i can go on my DT (14 teeth) with the standard engine because its quite a powerful little peashooter. it does however have a peformance air filter and ehxaust to make it breathe better. worth considering if you are having trouble pulling all the way to top gear, but if like the DT it is strong enough you could probably just go up 2 or 3 teeth on the front sprocket and leave it at that

Its not that hard, just follow the instructions you are given and everything will be fine. i took mine just under two months ago and it may differ a bit from yours, but mine started out with about 2 hours practicing in the car park, learning how to put the bike on the stand, controlled stops, figure 8s', circuits e.t.c and talked through/practiced what to do at junctions followed by a 2 hour road run, the first half of which you will be following the instructor who will talk you through everything he is doing (looking in the mirrors e.t.c at roundabouts) but for the second half he will follow you and give you directions through the radio and observe your actions accordingly. its nothing to fear really, the instructor wont fail you unless you are really terrible, more often than not they will just give you advice on how to further improve your skills, i had a bad tendancy to keep looking back to the right at roundabouts but have since stopped doing it best of luck, you will probably be given one of these horrible little scooters to do it on, i chose to do my test on the DT and didnt have any real problems atall. - Steve

and you thought i was pissed off at the government he speaks sense though... they're help themselves to our tax money and piss that away but such is life i guess... ¬¬

i keep mine on low beam during the day, when your as inexperianced as i am on a bike as small as mine in shitty weather you need to be as visable as possible. atleast he was considerate enough to stop, apologise and explain

a lot of mini motos and smaller engines run 50:1, but i reccomend trying 1:25 and seeing how you get on with that. a bike rich with oil will run sluggishly, a bike lean with oil will run once

hmm, if your only loosing that 7bhp is it really worth restricting it?. may look into getting a nice 650 drag after ive done my test... v nice bikes

its normal, my DT runs its lights off the mag so if the engine is just idling the lights will flicker and glow dim, but as soon as i pick up the revs they will brighten up as the mag starts producing more and more current and voltage. not sure there is anything you can do to make it any better, its just how it is

the stock DT50MX jet is 82, most likely fitted with the Mikuni carb. jets are available from www.bitzforbikes.co.uk, www.motorcarb.co.uk, have a quick search on the internet and you should find plenty of suppliers . mine is running a Bigone exhaust, expansion chamber and a K&N style filter, at the moment i think it is running a 90 or 95 size jet... will be putting a big bore kit on it soon so will probably go up to 110 or around that area if your not planning to big bore it or play with the carb/reeds/induction then i would think a 95 is the way to go - Steve P.S. what year is your DT?, mine is a 1990 so aslong as yours is 87-93 it should be the same spec

running lean, when you press the choke in half way it richens the mixture enough to get the engine running at its optimum, but when it is idling and you push it in half way when its warm it floods the engine and stalls it. have you put a new exhaust, air filter or any performance mods on it? i reccomend changing your fuel jets up a size and trying it then