Ttaskmaster

Electric - No noise so more likely to be SMIDSY'ed, takes ages to recharge, gets fuck-all mileage, kills the environment to produce. Hybrid: Half-and-half of the above. Hydrogen: Much of the above, really, especially on manufacture still killing the environment. Thorium is where it's really at!

Which is why you get yourself a larger size - Keeps your beverages battened down and your bird-bits brilliantly bolstered! My ideas need to work for everyone and the Itty-Bitty Titty Committee are no exception. In fact, circumstances like these are when the smaller folk have the advantages. Same for smuggling stuff into gigs and the like!

Depending on what size you get, the bra can hold two one-quart metal canteens full of nice hot coffee/tea/chocolate or mulled wine/mead/whatever... keeps you toasty on the ride and gives you a tasty beverage when you get wherever you're going!!

The Manual shows the fill level to the bottom of the filler neck, bike on sidestand and air gap on the opposite side of the tank. Most fuel tanks are designed to have space for fuel to expand... If you're riding long distance immediately after filling, then you can possibly squeeze some extra in... but remember that overfilling is also one of the main reasons vehicles get fuel spillages and why we have to keep a watch for diesel on the roads...!!

Thinsulate underlayers and a cup of tea usually sorts me out. Jumper or two, perhaps.

Fuel pump nozzles are designed for cars, where they usually have a long conduit to the tank. Bikes can pretty much brim, so you need the nozzle almost completely out the fill port to avoid triggering the safety cutoff. For the record, I can fill up faster than a car, so I don't know what they're complaining about. Just brim it to the lower rim of the fill port, let it settle and keep brimming until it levels out. Just don't over-fill, as that air gap on the opposite side of the tank may well be there for a reason...

Mister Martin, I am a BIG fan of your Game Of Thrones, especially the tits and wine parts, so a massive thank-you for those!! Welcome to the nuthouse, mate!

I know several drivers with those stickers, some who live with bikers or are riders themselves, yet still have made occasional mistakes like forgetting indicators. By all means, kick off the mirror, smash their windscreen, kill them in the face, whatever makes you feel better... so long as you remember to judge yourself just as harshly when *you* fuck up!

Seen some similar vids before, though not a full length film. Takes some skill in planning, choreography, cinematography and so on in order to achieve all that... but at the end of the day, it ends up looking like just another First Person Shooter computer game. Plus, as someone else mentioned, Sharlto Copley the South African, playing a British Soldier, using a Russian weapon...???!!!

With this information alone, I think Trading Standards would take your case on! Certainly they will offer a wealth of *free* legal advice and guidance in getting this sorted. Give your local TS service a ring or drop them an email. The part must be fit for purpose and exhibit a reasonable life expectancy. 1500 miles is NOT fit for purpose and clearly defective!! Also, £5,000 sounds like what a new bike would cost, not just one sodding part... I would really recommend not going through a dealer unless you enjoy being shafted!

Is it the tyre or the wheel that's got a buckle? Did you also check each of the spokes one at a time? If they are correctly tensioned, they will go 'Pinggggggggggggggg' if you hit each one with a spanner. If they give a dull 'Pingk', then they're too loose.

What, you mean........CAGIVA? How is it worse? A film can hold a BBFC 15 certificate with this gesture, but frequent F words can push it to an 18, so the C word is far worse.

You can do 45mph in a 30 limit in one of those... Only difference is you can run the camera over!

I don't. Looks ugly and overexposed and dangerous. I'd rather have that little PAL-V One... or one of these: https://www.youtube.com/user/aerofexcorp/videos But if we're talking flying things - I'll tell ya what I'd want, what I'd REALLY REALLY want:

Could probably make one with a bit of kanthal or Ni wire and a big enough battery... It's basically a giant ecigarette, applied to teh part instead of a cotton wick.

Who said anything about HIM? This is for our own debauchery!!

"In the Naaaaaaaay-Veeeeeee" Are the RAF alright about you turning (shirt) tail like this?

I think you're gonna need a bigger boat, mate...

Can you not just do your full licence and then get one?

Herts, eh? Cruising the streets of Ricky and Croxley?

Oh. Guess I was riding my Cruisers incorrectly for so many years, then...! I'd have said lower speeds require a mid-gear at most, else you're barely above idle. Top gear is for making use of all that engine grunt and surprising people by just how fast a Cruiser can go... as well as scraping the pegs at 10mph, although that's mainly limited to narrow European roads, rather than something these things are designed around. Crosswind stability is the same on most bikes, with the main factor being a relaxed rider who is prepared for sudden blasts. But unless you're planning to stay on the 125 for a long time, I'd suggest keeping it fairly stock - A 125's resale value takes a hoof in the nuts once you start modding it. If you want a 1951 Harley Davidson Hydra Glide, it may well prove cheaper to just buy one rather than modding a 125 Draggie, except if that's an intentional project.

"Ohhhhhh, Ah'm a Cowboy...... on a steeeeeeeeel horrrrse Ah riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide... I'm wanted (waaaaaaaan-teeeeeeeeeed)...... Dead Or Ah-Laaaaaaaaiiiiiiiive..." Heh heh - Sorry, your comment got another song started in my head!

Heya Toxic, Sod you - How is the poor bike? Nah, kidding - Good to see you're upright and seeming unshaken from the experience. Back on the saddle and back out there, eh! "Oh, the taste of your lips, I'm on a ride You're toxic, I'm slippin' under..." Sorry, got that song in my head!!

A lot of the older Harleys (1960s, 1970s, etc) that one would consider 'classic' actually have quite thin wheels. In fact, as a whole your 125 Dragstar makes those things look anorexic! IMO, the only reason to change something fundamental to the normal operation of a bike is 'because I want to' rather than seeking any improvement in performance, handling, etc... especially on a 125.

I generally change oil & filter every 3-4,000 miles and that's it. The level doesn't really drop low enough for top-ups unless I'm doing distances at higher speeds... as in several 'out all day' rides in a row. The Scottoiler needs more regular topping up! Perhaps check the carb balance and idle, make sure your warmed engine idling is about the 1050rpm mark?