Ttaskmaster

I think you can get Corbin seats over here. IIRC, Hein Gericke can obtain them.

Sorry, couldn't see any bikes in that link....... Saw some pretty girls, though I'm sure they'd look in blue or white stripey outfits!!

Need more pics of pretty girls.... preferable draped over (but not obscuring) the bikes!!! Sorry, but it's a tradition!!

Use the Search function. There's several threads full of great advice, thoughts, feedback, experiences and other such good stuff!!! I just can't be arsed to Copy & Paste loads of pages, coz I is a lazy git!!

Find a better one. Basically, the circuit will be broken somewhere around the starter motor, ignition, fuel pump or similar essential operating system. It will also be earthed somewhere. It will probably have a connection to a switched live as well and will likely have been wired into the Wiring Loom, so you'll probably need to open that up. I'm guessing there's a connection to a permanent live too. When you switch the Immob off, it makes the connections. When you switch it on, it breaks those connections and thus immobilises the bike. Identify the Immobiliser unit and track all wires, figure out what they're interrupting and re-connect. If you can get the Workshop Service Manual for your model of bike, that should at least help identify the components by appearance, plus it will include a wiring diagram. Basically, anything not shown in the manual (assuming your electrical system is otherwise unmodded) is likely to be part of the Immob system. This is why it's usually best left to a professional. Check also that it's definitely a broken immobiliser and not some other circuit system that's damaged.

If you're confident and have a wiring diagram, you might be able to re-connect the wires yourself. However, no-one here can really tell you how to do it. You need someone to physically see how and where the Immob has been installed, as there are a fair few possibilities. I'd know what to advise if you were in the UK, but since you're overseas, the best I can suggest is make friends with a mechanic.

Oh, there are good and bad in most manufacturers. I just hear a lot more HG quibbles than the others. I still buy a lot of HG products anyway.

With all due respect, HG kit is sometimes absolute shite. They have very good customer service and will happily (even pleasantly) replace defective kit and usually without argument. But people do sometimes find defects, most notably poor stitching. I myself bought some rather nice gloves, only to find them coming undone!! Be sure to check the stuff thoroughly and make sure you get some good stuff. The good stuff is indeed very good. The shite stuff is...... well, absolute shite.

Your Owners' Manual will maybe tell you what the actual range is. You have a tank that holds 19.4 litres, or 5.13 gallons. Divide the first by the second to get the full tank MPG. Then subtract the reserve capacity and compare to the distance you get by the time you hit reserve. Allow a lower MPG if you do a lot of town riding or if you rag it a lot. If you don't have the actual range, assume at least 120 miles before hitting reserve as most big bikes will do that as a minumum. HTH, Woody.

Frank Thomas do thick leather jackets with full armour in. I have a nice Cruiser style one (forget the name) and the Tourino jacket, both of which retail at around £180.

It's 100% Polyester, mate. It's for fashion only, as far as I can make out. It may keep you waterproof, but that's it. Might as well ride naked, for all the protection it offers!!! Sorry.

As above, really. If you have the right licence, you can ride up to 33BHP. You just have to tell the insurance company that it's de-restricted. Much better to get a big bike, though!!!

In basic terms, the Immobiliser breaks key circuits in your wiring and acts as a switch between the breaks. You'd have to cut the Immob out and re-connect the wires that are 'broken'. As for how, that depends on how/where it was patched in, the wiring of your bike etc. If you have no/limited electrical experience, get someone who knows what they are doing!!

In principle, nice idea...... but with all due respect - BAD Drewpy!!! If the caps are stuck (due to build-up of rust, grit or whatever) the tip of the blade could snap off.... And I just KNOW no-one will have put on safety goggles for this seemingly innocuous task!! There are Old riders, there are Bold riders....... There are no Blind riders!!!! Besides, if you slip, that's a nerve, tendon or even whole fingertip gone!! One of my lockpicks does the job admirably, but I realise not everyone has those to hand.....

Have tried it, actually. My 650's at the age where stuff starts to wear out. Battery went at 1.30 am in the middle of town when all the pubs were kicking out and pissed wankers are all laughing at the 'Hells Angel' trying to push-start his bike.... If they're proper mates, they'll shut up and help!!! Then take the piss once it's fixed

OK, solved it. It is the fuel pump. Apparently fuel from the line sometimes evaporates off if you leave the bike awhile. I still don't have a Powervalve, though!!

You should be able to find a fitting kit. Possibly not just the kit by itself, unless you get one of eBay or something. If it doesn't fit as is, then with careful drilling (use masking tape to help prevent cracking and splintering) you should be able to make it fit. Do check prices of parts first, though. It may be more cost-effective to just get a whole new set-up.

Help? With what?

Maybe he was joking. Either way, there's bound to be one or two American FJOCs around.

Only with my very bright tactical torch, I'm afraid. Either DIY or have you local mechanic-blokey methodically strip down and check the braking system. Check it thoroughly. Could be you have a knackered brake hose, a partially seized piston or blown seal... many things. Just remember to replace the cheapest parts first!!

I reckon we're just rediscovering our Winter riding styles again. Bit of mixed-signal confusion due to the erratic weather.

TBH, I've never known any other 1100 starter to go. There are ..... (counts)...... seventeen 1100 Drag riders locally that I know and none have had this issue. Reliability??!! Thought that was Honda Yamaha are all about even-handed coolness!! Everyone has a few brain-failures, though. Honda have the DN-01 Yamaha have the FJR1300 with Chip Controlled Gear Shifty-Bollocks thing.

Ya.... Get a thin flathead screwdriver (like the electronics ones) and use that. The key is to get the tip down past the lip of the caps and lever them out from there. I love the 650 Drags, but there are a few 'design features' that really are fecking stupid (like checking the oil on that impossible sight glass - Need two people just to do this). I wish they'd figured out this shite before they'd put the bike on the market!!

Hmmm..... Seems to be a race-bike thing. Can't find mention of one in any of the Dragstar manuals...

What does a power valve look like and where is it?