Ttaskmaster

Come have a look at my bike. Then come have a look at the plans I have for my custom build trikes and rat-bikes. Do you really think I care what my bike looks like? So long as it works..... Well, I judge my other half by very personal standards. If you wish to be rated, you'll have to get her permission first and then we'll need to book into a nice hotel somewhere...... If you can ride, fair enough. If you go s-l-o-w-l-y round corners and roundabouts while riding the clutch, you get a slap!! I'll happily come for a ride with ya!! However, the gentle scratches on the underside of my footpegs suggest I know how it's done!!! Pegs down at 15mph!!!!!

If it does have YISS, HISS or similar then most decent Auto Locksmiths can program a cut blank to correspond with your chip. The key code will be listed in their software (AD100 KPS and so on) with the relevant data to program new keys.

Disclock - Get one with a disc detainer lock. Make sure you're in teh habit of removing it from the very start. There are more tips here too, but used properly these things are not the 'deathtrap' stupid people make them out to be. The rumours are as true as 'motorcycles being dangerous deathtraps' Chain - Get the best you can. Abus are pretty damn good. Make sure the padlock is a disc detainer mechanism too. Chain it to something immovable, like a lamp post and make sure the chain is kept high off the ground. Alarm - Immobilisers are pointless. The alarm kinda is too, but it makes a noise and alerts you (no-one else will respond) to someone fiddling with your bike. A cheap DIY install job will suffice. If you have a garage, keep it inside and make sure the garage is secure. Use a motorcycle cover when it's not in use. If the thieves cannot tell what it is, they'll move on to another, easier and more definite target.

Definitely do it. Panniers and topbox are a good idea, but a backpack may not be comfortable on long distances. Make sure you're all mechanically prepared and it should be amazing fun. If you think your bike is too small for touring, go Google up a Honda M50 Monkey Bike. Guy I know from Bristol went touring round France on one earlier this year!!!!!

Honestly, it'd be cheaper and easier (and lighter) to get some properly made hard luggage, guys.......

POSERRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!! Two possible answers here, mate... 1/. Get a set that zip off the yoke. Plenty about. 2/. Get inner bags of some sort. My other half just uses bin bags (coz she's a dirty lil' biker bitch), but others use rucksacks, satchels and all sorts. I hate it. But then, I'm very tall with long limbs. I'm also a back-seat rider!!! It's better with a padded backrest. The Classic also has a bit more room. However, regardless of how short Her Ladyship is, she will eventually need you to stop for a leg-stretch.

OK, so a lock on the buckles and a steel plate surround. I'll either cut the buckle straps or cut the stitching instead.... If you only have small items, get a tail pack/lock carrier or even a small tank bag and stow it all in that. It's easily removable (couple of QR clips) and you can then take it into work with you. Job done. For pure security and practicality you'd be better off getting rigid panniers, rather than saddlebags. I have seen these on larger Cruisers (like the Volusia) but don't know if they do 'em for a 125 Drag. My advice is to check out the Givi website and see if they do a set of pannier rails for the Drag. If so, then you could get Givi panniers fitted. Beyond that, you're riding the wrong type of bike.

Quick note: OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer. ie Genuine Yamaha Parts. Pattern = Cheap & Nasty copies. Sometimes good/better than OEM, but not always. If in doubt, buy OEM. Crush washer looks like this: When you torque the bolt/plug up, the washer crushes slightly and gives a better seal. The Vauxhall is probably coated with a protective layer of dirt and road crap. Give it a thorough wash and see what's underneath. Bikes do get knackered, I'm afraid, especially in Winter. Road salt is our enemy, no matter how well we care for the bikes. Check out the threads here on ACF 50 and Scottoiler FS 565.

Oh, we're on here now? Okey doke I should mention that both Vultures clubs are owners clubs. VSOC are owners of specific bikes, whereas the Vale lot are just bike owners. They both do the same thing, really. And yes, you can belong to both. It's possibly not a good idea to mention it, but that's just because of old rivalry among some of the older members. My other half isn't here, but she belongs to a Front Patch club, called the English Rose Sisterhood. Based in Kent, but have members all over the place.

Progressive braking - Start gentle and gradually increase firmness. Obviously do it in time to stop, but don't slam the brake on. Learn to transfer to the rear brake as you come to a stop. This will prevent that sudden jerk. As Matt states, standing on the rear brake may very well boot the back wheel out from under you. The only exception is cornering - If you're banked over, using the front will kick the back wheel out and you will crash. You can use some gentle back brake, but this will change your line inward and stand the bike upright somewhat. Both brakes - Yes. Emergency stop. This should have been covered in your CBT. It definitely will in DAS!! In an emergency, apply a touch of front, then firmly apply the back as you progressively increase braking on the front. Do not grab. In poor conditions or at low speed, you may wish to apply more rear. Clutch control while braking: As the revs drop to a low burble, release the throttle, pull the clutch in, drop a gear and let the clutch out gently. This is deliberate engine braking. Repeat until you are in first. Pull the clutch all the way in just before you come to a complete stop. Obviously only done when braking normally. Cruising along: None, really. Just shift gear normally.

Yes. In fact petrol evaporates rather quickly, so chances are you're seeing diesel anyway, particularly after a lot of rain. Ratio will actually vary depending on what is needed. Progressive braking is the key, though.

Vale is about 50% Cruisers (don't forget they started out as Virago & Star riders). The others have things like the Volusia, Shadow and that big Honda one... There's a couple of Harleys, a VFR, Triumph Trophy (x2), Dragstar trike (x2), Custom built car trike, Triumph Thunderbird, an actual V-Star 1100 (the new model imported from America), Deauville, Bandit, Ninja and many other kinds, including several 125 riders, some still with L-Plates on. There's even an old Ural Sidecar outfit!! But like I said - Vale is more about riding with friends than which bike you own. They leave together, ride together and they arrive together. No pressure to join - So just go along, have a look, have a chat and see what you think.

Tool rolls can hold a fair bit of kit. Don't dismiss them out of hand. You can put whatever you like in 'em. Easy job requiring some basic tools. Fairly cheap to do as well. You can get all the tools and materials you need from B&Q or a similar shop. Cut the sheet metal to shape using tin snips, flatten it out and file down the cut edges, punch holes in the sheet, punch matching holes in the saddlebags, rivet the plate in place. HOWEVER - If I were a thief, I'd not bother slashing open your leather saddlebags - I'd just open the fecking buckles!!!!!! Seriously mate - Easy to do, but not worth the hassle at all. If you're talking about a 650 Dragstar, it will be restricted to 33bhp. Just to give you some perspective, your 125 is about 12bhp as standard. The full on 650 is only 40bhp, so restricting it to 33 doesn't take too much away. You'd be riding the equivalent of a 400cc bike. Having ridden a restricted 650 Classic (which has 20kg extra bodywork weight) it is notably slower than my own 650.... however, it still performs well enough to have serious fun on and goes fast enough for you to lose your licence on a motorway!! You will most likely want to lose the 125 in the end and get something bigger anyway, so I see no problem with it. Bike will cost you whatever. Restriction will cost about £150, including fitting, certification etc. Insurance....... See what companys say and get the cheapest you can.

Any old parts shop or a mechanic's who can get parts should be able to order OEM components directly from Yamaha. Don't take any crap either - Yamaha do next day delivery, especially on simple consumables like filters. Specific parts that rarely break, like drive shafts may take longer though. Remember to fit a new crush washer with the sump plug!!

Beginner - Use an anti-fog solution on the inside of your visor, both sides of teh sun visor and both sides of your glasses. I do the same thing!!

Most manufacturers keep a bunch of parts for a number of years, in case something like this happens. They also continue to make consumables (like oil & air filters) for people like me who insist on buying OEM parts (because I found out the hard way - pattern ones aren't always as good as they're supposed to be......) Current weather conditions...... Well, today it's sunny where I live, but I'll assume you meant pissing down with rain.... On a Cruiser, you'll want mostly front brake (remember to brake progressively) but do consider a bit of back brake to bring the weight back on line. Remember too, to allow a greater stopping distance in the wet. DO NOT brake when you're on diesel. I mean a BIG bit, not the tiny 2" spots. If you have to brake, roll off the throttle and wait until you're past the diesel. You so much as touch the front when going over large patches, you'll hit the deck before you even realise you're going down!! The only time you should brake on diesel is if you're about to hit something more dangerous... like a car!!

Crash bars are a good investment. Plus, you can stretch your legs out and rest them on top of the bars during long motorway rides!! The tubular leather thing is a Tool Roll. Basically a cylindrical compartment for holding a few spanners, screwdriver and what have you. It's a throwback to the old days when you had to carry a bunch of tools in case your bike broke down. They're a bit pointless nowadays though, since most bikes have a tool-kit under the seat. People just have them for the Retro look. I know one guy who has two large tool rolls - the second hangs off the front corner of the frame, behind the front wheel. He keeps a sleeping bag in one and a tent in the other!!

Try a Caberg. Top notch lids, especially the full face V2 model, at around £100. Plus, they all come with a drop-down internal sun visor!!

OK, OK, Relax.... Mr. Opinion is here!!!!! Try the standard seat out first. I have kept mine standard because it works fine for me and I don't need to spend on a new one. You may like it, you may hate it - but give it a few thousand miles, including a few long rides. Then decide. No point in unneccesary expenses. If getting pulled is a worry for you, keep the standard ones. How important is making a loud noise, anyway? Yes, it sounds brilliant when you pull up next to someone at a biker meet. But when you come home at 3am and you piss off a street full of sleeping neighbours...... My street loves me. I've asked several of them and apparently they never hear me come home late!!! TBH, as Goff says about the Not For Road Use bit, really. Most people expect Cruisers to be loud and growly anyway, so it doesn't raise that many eyebrows. Ultimately, though, it depends on your local coppers, what sort of mood they're in that day and/or how bored they are!! Again, try the standard ones first. I've had both on mine and I eventually ditched the boards in favour of the stock pegs. Other friends of mine prefer boards. As Goff mentions, you can get aftermarket thingies that make a solid wheel. However, you will really notice high winds with these. Nope, leather saddlebags are not lockable. They just buckle shut. However, if you empty them overnight, no worries eh? You can get some which zip off. These are pretty cool. However, 'throw-over' is a bit of a misnomer. Typically, you remove the back seat and lay the yoke directly over the mudguard (fender if you're in the US). This is what keeps them attached to the bike, along with leather thong ties that secure them to the luggage support rails. You can get rigid plastic panniers, which are lockable. They cost more because the body panels are metal. That's 20kg of extra weight. Personally, I hate the Classic styling. The long sweeping bodywork reminds me of a 60's Housewife haircut!! Plus, in my imagination, it's one step toward a white Harley Road King with all the accessories... tassled & studded white leather, the whole sha-bang. It just reminds me of Elvis in The White Suit!!! Myself, I'm not a very ostentatious person, despite owning a Cruiser. I like the Custom because it looks very Retro, compared to the Classic. The Classic does have a bigger front wheel and large fork shrouds, but it all depends on teh look you want to create. However, if you do get the Custom and want large saddlebags/panniers, you will have to re-locate the indicators. Not a difficult job, though and you will then have more luggage space than the Classic!! Nah - Get a Custom. Classics are for people with big beards, big bellies and bandannas. Customs are for Rock Stars!!!!! Get the place to order them for you. It's a pain trying to ride anywhere with a pair of tyres on a bike!! Plus, they'll have loads of kit to properly fit, inflate and balance the wheel. Well worth it, IMO!! Some places will even come to a local address to fit it (all the guys at work get theirs done during the lunch hour!!). Mine was about 12, if I recall.....

Myself, I'm not yet very mechanically minded - At least not with bikes. But if you have any military issue small arms, I am qualified to happily fix those..... But hey - if you're getting a comprehensive fix/rebuild instead of a patch-up job and it's free, then why not!!! End of the day, the dealer has issued a warranty and its his responsibility to make it work properly. You have legal recourse and if there are any legal problems, first port of call will be Trading Standards. Anyone else have thoughts? I'm hoping OldGit and Goff are keeping an eye on this one....

Good news - Bike is self-diagnosing and the parts that it checks are all OK!! NO - Do NOT get a custom paint job. Reason being, you will probably want a bigger bike some time in the future - which means you will likely want to sell this one. Any custom paintwork will reduce the sale value of the bike. Whilst you may like it, it won't neccesarily be to a buyer's tastes and teh first thing they'd want to do is change it. Keep everything as standard as possible. Any accessories should be sensible ones that are easily removed, such as luggage, screeens, backrests etc.

By looking out of the window, usually. Seriously though, she's a very good bike. Mine's rather old and knackered, plus I do a lot of hard riding in really bad consitions, so I have lots of things that keep breaking. To be honest, I'd expect the same with any other bike, if not worse. I'm a very heavy-handed person and a harsh taskmaster (hence the User ID). I expect things to work. By contrast, my other half is just as much a hard-core rider, but she isn't so hard on the bike. Her 650 Drag is in amazing condition and it's pretty problem-free!!! Definitely go along to the Vale Vultures and see what they're like. No pressure to join or anything... But then, it wouldn't be the first time someone has left C12 to join the Vale group!!! www.tvvultures.co.uk. They meet up at a fancy new venue (I think details are on the webshite) every second Wednesday of the month - Hey, that's this Wednesday!!

To be honest, an Owners Club is very much about which bike you own. That's why I'd recommend a club like the Vale lot for beginners. They don't care what bike you have - It's about the ride and the people.

Having a faster bike does not make someone a better person. Kick him in the nuts and see how cocky he is then!!!!!! People hassle me over my "Harley Wannabe" bike. If I could AFFORD a fucking Harley, I'd have a garage with several bikes!!

That's the Engine Fault light. It should come on when you turn on the ignition, then go out a couple of seconds afterward. This means the system is checking itself and all is OK. If it stays on or flashes a number of times, it means you need to get it checked. There is a code list, to decipher what each number of flashes means, but this is usually for teh mechanic to diagnose.