Ttaskmaster

Jeez....The point was, it's a joke. Contributing to the friendly family aspect of the forum. For a serious answer - Search through current and elapsed sales on eBay, BikeTrader, MCN and everywhere else, then spend hours painstakingly working out the average sale price based on mileage, condition, year, colour, season, current fashion trend etc, only to find that it doesn't make that much difference - It's an R6 and will sell for the overall average price, with some slight variation. Set a reserve on eBay, or set a higher price with ONO. Your average is £3.5K for a 51 reg.

Send 'em anyway!!!

It's started smoking, huh? Well, my first thought is to suggest it try nicotine patches... My less sarcastic thought would be the weather. I have heard of some engines (bike and otherwise) that run fairly warm. Not a bad thing at all. However, when you stop and park up overnight, the engine temperature drops so rapidly that a little oil stays in place, rather than flowing back to the sump as it cools. Then when you start it up next morning, as that 'stuck' oil warms up, it gets into the combustion system and you get some smoking. This is just a theory based on mechanic's chatter, though.

Locksmith or key-cutter? Big difference. Most actual locksmiths, even the less reputable ones, can re-pin a lock if you remove it for them. Yamaha might have designed teh bags so you can't remove the cylinders. I'd have to see. However, phone a few of the local independents. I'm certain you can get everything set up for the one key. As for Yamaha's prices.... F**K ME!!!!! I can't believe that - £300 for a pair of bent metal rods??!! Get the kids at the local tech college to do that for much cheaper, probably with better quality too... or is it all about keeping the warranty valid?

How much for a red one? Oooh, lots. Everyone knows red bikes go faster!!! Edit: Cor, have I really made that many rambling, babbling posts of sarcasm here?

So how come you have different locks for the bags? Did they come like that? Were they aftermarket add-ons? As I mentioned, a decent Locksmith, particularly one who specialises in Autos* will be able to repin any pin tumbler lock. If he simply doesn't have the right sort of pins in stock, fair enough. I'd have asked if he could get a set off someone else, but that's me - I have a bit of involvement in the trade. The other option is to shop around, state clearly what it is you want and everything you want in advance, get price estimates, quotes on viewing the work etc. Many will do this bit for free anyway. Another pointer is to remove the lock assembly yourself, if you can - These guys work on locks. They don't like fiddling about with the rest of a vehicle, if they can help it. *Dunno why we don't call them vehicle locksmiths over here....

Well..... On the left is a switch that takes you from High Beam to Low (dipped) Beam. Make sure this is set to Low. Keep it there always unless you're riding in fog or some other condition you'd need bright lights for. On the right, you have your on'off switch for the headlight. One click will turn on your sidelights. Two will have you on normal headlight. Stating that, just so there's no confusion. As a rider, I'd advise having your headlight on at all times. TBH, I can't imagine when you'd ever need just sidelight*, because they are so dim. It doesn't do anything to show you up any better on the road. Indeed some bikes are wired to have the headlight permanently on anyway. If it's not easily fixable, I'd not worry about it. Keep to headlight and just make sure there are no other problems with your connection, wiring, earthing etc. *Unless you're one of those rare people who actually needs it as a parking light.

Rain usually does it, round here. However, being the chap I am, I've been riding into work all through this "snow", despite Reading getting up to 16" of the stuff. Just gotta know what you're doing and be cautious when filtering past the wheelspinning idiots, who are stuck on a hill because they think more revs will grind through the snow and make the car go again!! Apparently, when the snow warnings came out, Reading council had all gone home by 2pm, leaving our roads completely ungritted.

Is the 650 a Classic or a Custom? If the latter, then the best mod you can do is to move the rear indicators backward. Then you can get proper sized saddlebags on, rather than just shitty little sandwich boxes

A 125 Drag just sounds like a very manly insect. A modded 125 Drag just sounds like a manly insect shouting. Bigger bikes are the answer!!

Use the Search function. Use the Search function. Use the Search function. Use the Search function!!!!!! Thank-you

Why? Again, why? Why do people keep asking how to make their 125s louder? OK, let's say I make it loud. I mean properly loud. Harley loud. Then what? You have a bike that can talk the talk, but not walk the walk. Why not save your cash and your street cred and wait until you have at least a 650 Drag? Anyone worth impressing can instantly tell you're on a 125 Drag, including yourself. Trust me - It's worth the wait.

Or, if you'd used the Search function, you'd have found one of the many topics where I speak about the cheapest option of dealing with a Locksmith. They can cut keys cheaper than anyone else, even electronic coded keys. They can re-pin locks, replace cylinders, re-pin and re-key, put in brand new pins, unstick dirt-frozen locks... many things.

I'd have said Miranda Otto, as in Éowyn in Lord Of The Rings....

PRIME should be used if you've refuelled from a very low tank, just come off reserve or the bike has been stood for a while.

Having to take your lid off anywhere is fine. You should not complain... unless you have a reason to hide your face? What should happen is that this principle should apply to everyone else, from HoodRats to Muslims to whatever.

DON'T get me started on this shite.....

Just for reference, here's what I believe happened... Over time fuel wil evaporate out from the fuel pump. No biggie, it happens with most bikes when they're left for a spell. But it's the equivalent of running out of/low on petrol. If you check your handbook section on fuel and running out of, you'll see that you'd have to Prime the system before it'll restart. Same thing here.

Here's my opinion... Clutchless changes: Why do you have a cluth then? Why don't they just invent a bike that auto-clutches or even better - Get an automatic bike? I hear a lot of clutchless talk and I just don't see the point. I can change up and down just as fast as clutchless people do. Sometimes faster. Unless you're racing the bike, what is the point? Alarms: They do one thing only - Let you know you bike is being fucked with. No-one else will even look, but you'll know someone is messing. I have one on mine and if it sounds I'll be outside with a BIG stick or a sword, beating the living daylights out of whoever dares to mess with my bike. My other half will have grabbed one of my other big sticks or her own sword and will be doing the same. I don't use an immobiliser because they are easily bypassed and if not properly done (even pro's make mistakes) can fail/immob your bike while you're actually riding it. I know people this has happened to. Alarms will be ignored by everyone else, so it's there for you only. The one thing that will stop most thieves is securing your bike to an immovable object. Get a good chain and lash it to something like a lamp post or a building. Make sure the chain is well clear of the floor, so thay can't brace bolt cutters on the ground. Use a padlock with a disc detainer lock - If the keyway looks like a front door Yale lock then even I can pick it in less than 10 seconds with a paperclip. If you can, secure the bike in a garage and/or keep it covered*. A second lock on the disc will help deter thieves. An alarmed one is just an extra shock for them. Ultimately, the easiest way to nick a bike is to literally just lift it into a van. Takes between 9 and 15 seconds on average. No-one will try and stop them, so you must make it fucking hard to lift. They'd need some expensive tools to cut free a properly secured bike. With enough time any bike can be stolen. Your job is to make your bike such a hassle and such an awkward target that they'll fuck off and look for something a whole lot easier. People often talk about the price of security and the hassle of removing it all just to go for a ride. Now go park somewhere in a town that you've never been to and tell me that security is a hassle. *Covering/hiding - Top targets are high performance bikes and 125s. Either in one piece or broken for parts, there will always be a big market for these. If they can't tell which bike it is, they might not waste time finding out.

Google is your friend. Google for "MT 01 hugger". 1,240 results!!!!!

The bike doesn't come with a tachometer anyway, so you just have to listen to the revs. Well maintained Dragstars (or V-Stars, for the US market) have 3 basic sounds. 1/. Grumble grumble, revs too low. Bike struggles and judders, which means you might want to consider dropping a gear. 2/. Revvy revvy revy - Right in the powerband and doing nicely. 3/. Screamy screamy - Change up a gear!!!!! A 125 Drag will handle 70mph quite happily, so a 250 should be fine.

Good advice, GasUp!!

Which XVS you got? 125, I assume? Check your connections first up. Also, describe to me exactly what you're doing to test the lights.

Oh, indeed. There's a very nice chap called John round our way. He used to work for a dealer. He got fucked off with so many people complaining, so he went off and opened his own independent parts shop. Best in town!! Our options are: Dealer - Risk getting ripped off, slow delivery and wrong parts anyway. Hein Gericke - Limited, variable quality and not really worth it at all. Independent bike mechanics - Best in the county. Does mean you'll get what you pay for, but you'll also pay for what you get. Independent parts shop - Best ever. Just have to fit the parts yourself.

I'm usually labelled a Political Dissenter...