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Ttaskmaster

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Everything posted by Ttaskmaster

  1. Ttaskmaster
    Why do you want loud pipes? Might it be an option to just buy different ones? Bear in mind also that drilling may require you to re-jet. Plenty of riders will probably now post that they never had to re-jet... yet every single mechanic I have ever spoken to insists that re-jetting is neccesary when you do this sort of thing. You decide.
  2. Ttaskmaster
    Google is your friend. Literally, there are hundreds.
  3. Ttaskmaster
    I believe that if you go get it done at a professional place, then they have to certify that it has been restricted to within legal limits. If it turns out to be lies, then the place that certified it are liable. Same as when a dealer does a PDI. If something is not right and the bike suffers a crash as a result, then whoever did the PDI will be bricking it!! This works in part due to the fact that the average biker does not own the right sort of kit to legally certify the bike's BHP. It works the same with work done on your vehicle if it subsequently fails MOT. In short, put the ball in someone else's court and slam the heck out of them if it goes wrong.
  4. Ttaskmaster
    Well, yeah - Funnily enough.... www.partfinderuk.co.uk www.partsfinder.co.uk www.partfinderukltd.com www.bike-breakers.info Google is your friend.
  5. Ttaskmaster
    Buy a torch. They're cheap as chips these days, 'specially them LED ones.
  6. Ttaskmaster
    Always do the cheapest stuff first. Check everything is properly adjusted. That costs nothing. I always recommend a full service, particularly if the guy will let you watch and learn. It also pays to have a second, professional set of eyes.
  7. Ttaskmaster
    Locks you can sometimes find cheap(er) on eBay and so on. Plenty of parts shops can get them for you. Might even find one at a breaker's yard or through Part Finder.
  8. Ttaskmaster
    Are you sure it's the sync screw and not the idle adjuster?
  9. Ttaskmaster
    Nope. Jack the bike up on a level surface. Do everything. Only then lower it back down. Have you also checked the rear brake system to make sure it isn't engaging when you lower the bike?
  10. Ttaskmaster
    50mpg?? I average 48.
  11. Ttaskmaster
    The tumbler (single) has several pins or wafers in it, which will have collected dirt, rust or general crap. Ideally air-dust it out with a compressed air spray and then lube with graphite powder or (if you have to) WD40. Work this into the lock using the key.
  12. Ttaskmaster
    You mean immobilisers... Alarms are good. Alarms piss everyone else off and get ignored... but they do let ME know if someone's messing with my bike. And if I know someone is messing, I am straight out there with sword and big sticks and all sorts of nasty stuff, with my other half just behind me likewise armed. Dogs can be deterred. I can't!!
  13. Ttaskmaster
    Aye, that's the one. More expensive than I remember, though...
  14. Ttaskmaster
    OMG!!!!!!!!! Someone who uses the Search function and actually reads the advice we post here???!!! WOOOO-HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!! Yeeeeeees, bathe in my sarcasm, Brian
  15. Ttaskmaster
  16. Ttaskmaster
    Mine must have been a duff one, then
  17. Ttaskmaster
    Guess it's not a breather pipe then, eh! If you have a 650 Dragstar, it WILL have a breather fuel cap. They all do. Just air-dust the thing out. Every single hole you can find. Include the keyway as there will be crap in there that interferes with your key. Clean the whole mechanism out... But do not oil it.
  18. Ttaskmaster
    Yes.
  19. Ttaskmaster
    This is taught in CBT.
  20. Ttaskmaster
    Hagon shocks are THE best, especially for a 650 Drag I think their own website offers free delivery, too....
  21. Ttaskmaster
    As mentioned - I've had my tank off many times and never found a breather at all. No clue what these holes in the top of the tank are... Unless you mean the feed route for the speedo cables? Fuel cap does have a vent. Nip to a PC shop and get one of those compressed air cans for a couple of quid. Blast the crap out. Let us know how you get on.
  22. Ttaskmaster
    I would say the chain tension itself is incorrectly adjusted. Slacken everything off and start again from scratch. Adjust the wheel using the two adjusting bolts. Turn them an equal number of times and no more than 1 turn at a time. When the correct chain tension is reached, turn the rear wheel and move the chain about 10-15 links further. Check tension again and adjust where necessary. Move on another 10-15 links. Keep repeating until you get a good overall tension. Lock up the axle bolt, lube the chain and go riding.
  23. Ttaskmaster
    Wait until you hit 90,000. Then we'll talk Try increasing the idle speed.
  24. Ttaskmaster
    Thoughts... FUCK ME, that's expensive!!! Advice - Breakers yards, Part Finder etc. Has it done anywhere near 60,000 miles?
  25. Ttaskmaster
    Well, I actually am just leaving work... Have you checked the back wheel is properly aligned? 'How' did you go about adjusting the chain? These things are often simple, so check all the silly stuff first.
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