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Ttaskmaster

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Everything posted by Ttaskmaster

  1. IIRC, you will have a couple spare fuses in the fuse box. If that's the problem, you should be sorted. Also, a quick looksee may unearth* a loose connector, which you can just connect back up, easy as. If anyone at work has tools, you can go more in-depth. Consider chucking some WD-40 on anything important that looks too wet and/or corroded - Maybe just spray some inside the control clusters, in case they're a bit gunked up. If corrosion isn't too bad, loosen corroded connections and combine WD-40 with a little scrub to clean them up a bit (scrub with a toothbrush or even a little metal thing like a paper clip). Failing that, get a recovery or take your chances with the cops/getting hit by another road user... *Unearth - Earth - Electronic earth, ha ha... did you see what I did there!!
  2. Oh jeezy... Right, I'll keep this simple so forgive me if it sounds patronising... First, get someone to straddle (NOT sit on) the bike and hold it upright. Ideally, you'd want to loosen the bolts holding the rear wheel axle in place, but I'll assume you don't have the tools to hand. You'd also need the bike lifted off the ground, but that'll be awkward without a centrestand or a bike jack. Make sure the chain is straight and securely seated on both sprockets (the cog things with the teeth). Then look along the swingarms (oblong things out the back, with the rear wheel at the end). Coming out the back of each swingarm, there will be threaded bolts with two nuts on. First, you need to loosen the rearmost nut right off (turn anti-clockwise). Use a pair of spanners, or maybe one spanner and some pliers. Hold the inner one tightly in place and turn the outer. Next, tighten the inner nut a couple of turns (clockwise). As you do, you'll see a little block inside the swingarm move and the wheel will shift backwards a bit. If you examine the swingarm, there will be little graduation marks, that look something like this: |||||||| Use those to note how far you move the wheel backward. Now, be sure you tighten each side equally. Best to only do a couple of turns at a time and then do the other the same amount, rather than many turns on one side. Continue until your chain has about an inch (2.5cm) of slack at the loosest point. Turn the rear wheel round a bit (roll the bike forward/backward if you have to) and re-check the tension. It may need a little alteration on the adjusters until you get a fairly uniform slack measure. Once you're happy with the chain slack, tighten up both outer nuts to keep it all in place and you should be good. Also, see section 6-22 of the Owner's Manual (page 53 of 78), which can be opened in PDF here: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ymenvom.nl%2Fnew%2Fmanuals%2FU5JXE3.PDF&ei=AFySUZb4L8n40gWmpoGICw&usg=AFQjCNGAd7UtLCqtGw4mmhpmxBoX-GkeVw&sig2=CQd1Xq8slM9Hsz5JP3eHfQ
  3. Check fuses as well. I expect the rain has gotten in somewhere and messed up some wiring.
  4. >>what happend was i ordered parts, and they undercharged me - no fault of my own. so i paid a bit more on ordering the other panel, and they never sent anything out. UNDER...? Or OVERcharged you the first time? Also, if you were overcharged the first time, why would you pay *more* the second time? >>phoned and asked whats happening - said they didnt have the parts in stock and >>would refund, then only refunded me £90 instead of the £144 i paid. How much did they undercharge you the first time? If they undercharged you by £54 the first time then that's the amount they retained from this second incident, which would square away the account between you. I'm not sure I follow. Did you get any quotes in writing or on email? Do they mention handling or admin charges, VAT, postage, or anything extra like that?
  5. Assuming all components are in good condition, you should just need to use the adjusters at the back to get the correct tension. If they're not, you're in for a replacement job. Do you know why the chain came off to begin with?
  6. Go reasonably fast when it's safe, clear and you can. This does not include when there's a cop with a speed gun or a camera round the corner, or 130 in a 50, when filtering, etc... That seems to be when the majority of them got pulled.
  7. Rocker gear change? Urgh! 61bhp? Meh... 1100 Drag does that. Shaft drive? Cool! Catalytic converter? WTF for??!! Not only does it look stupidly massive, all those accessories make it sound like a Goldwing wannabe and the faggoty-gay guy in the CHiPS helmet advertising it don't do it any favours. It's a 'Cruiser' but it's not even got a V-Twin, FFS - I bet even the quiet purr of a Deauville would drown out this engine!! Have you considered a Rocket III? Or would any old bike with the fairing ripped off sufice as 'Naked'? Bandit, Hornet, R6, R1, Blackbird, ZXR or even the VFR... ?
  8. My instructor was also instructor for the Police and taught me a lot of very little things that aren't on the test but make a lot of difference and a lot of sense. We spoke about Advanced Riding schemes and he had some good to say about it, but also an equal amount of bad. Personally, I've known a few Advanced riders including a couple here at work. Those I have actually ridden with have pulled some eyebrow-raising moves. All of those I've known ended up with points on their licences (mainly speeding) and a few have had accidents from attempting advanced techniques that just were not safe for the circumstances. Not saying all Advanced riding is like that, but I've always been just a touch dubious.
  9. Profile says XV 125, so I'm gonna take a guess here...
  10. No case. You were told they weren't waterproof... and they were not. No false advertising, no unfit for purpose, no nothing. Trading Standards would likely just hang up on you (politely, of course).
  11. I thought Hyosung were actually Korean?
  12. Quiet, coz some of us are actually out riding our bikes!
  13. Try here: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=atv+repair+kent+uk
  14. The Owners Manual should detail exactly how to adjust it, with pictures and everything. I like pictures...
  15. I forget the brand, but you can get a ring-bound A-Z road map of the UK printed on waterproof, tear-proof paper. Comes in various sizes. The wife has one. I prefer my magic box.
  16. Ttaskmaster

    Steering key

    Take the whole bike to the key maker, or find a proper locksmith that will do home visits.
  17. There's a theory that when balancing the cyclinders, the front one should run a little hotter than the rear one, as the latter gets less cooling airflow... but it's just a theory. Not something I've ever tried.
  18. How can anyone bear the embarrassment of having a sidecar *without* mounting a machinegun on it??!! Heck, if it's just Number 3 who travels in it, you could get one of them Nerf guns on it with the soft foam ammo!!
  19. Snicking into Neutral and issues with, my first port of call is usually the oil - Check the level as too much will feck things about a bit. Too little is just plain BAD! Also make sure it's fairly clean and not black as bog, or anything. If in doubt, empty it out and put new stuff in, changing the filter while you're at it. But as mentioned, why not get it fully serviced and then see how it goes. If you can, get the guy to check the idle speed and carb balancing, as well as cleaning the carbs themselves out. On an open, straight dual-carriage A-road, you should be able to reach a max of 74mph, give or take a single digit there. Start off normally and ride the revs up (be a little gentle), to the top of the power band. Change up a gear before the bike starts to really rev it's nuts off. Repeat right up to 4th gear. Continue as before, but work right up to full throttle in 4th, then change up to 5th. Once in 5th, you should be at around 65mph. Now very slowly increase throttle, literally as slowly as you can and just allow your speed to gradually build over about a minute. You should find your top speed is now +70mph and you can cruise along happily. This will mean you have to plan any overtakes well in advance, especially on motorways. It also means in the event of having to brake at all, you will likely have to drop to 4th and power up again but that's all part of the 125 Character Build experience!! Report back here and let us know, eh!!
  20. Everyone has to learn the lessons. Some learn from others' experiences. Others learn from their own. Some learn before it kills them, others learn just after..
  21. You may get better deals a short while after the weather turns bad, ie when no-one wants to be out riding bikes.
  22. Silly cow, really. You get those. Had some bint yesterday in a powerful 4x4 try and undertake me just so she could pull across my lane into the 4th, but did it about 18" off my front wheel. Resisted the urge to hand her wing mirror to her...
  23. Naw, bawbags... haggis neeps & tatties, square loaf, lorne sausages, tattie scones, a few drams o' a Speyside, mind yer heid, Och Donald Wheere's Ya Troosers an' tha' Corries tunes played by the Ceilidh on a Thursdee night... and all the other stereotypey stuff that I actually can't go too long without!!
  24. Figure out exactly what you want and then Google for it, narrowing your search parameters accordingly. That's pretty much how I found mine (and for £800 less than the going rate) at a little-known independent dealership down the road!
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