Ttaskmaster

Mine don't really seem to, no. They hold a little bit, but they don't even seem through my gloves, which get more wet just from brushing the rain off the tank.

Hobby Products International. refers to HPI of Foothill Ranch, California, USA, makers of your Baja. Google is great, innit!

Flame away...

That's why I recommended the GPs. They're not just cheap crap. They're designed to last through very heavy daily use on courier bikes... I've not yet done 150,000 miles on my bike but those I know who have heartily recommend them. Dunno what they're made from, but they're DAMN good! Also, even if they do wear out after 20,000 or so, they're cheap enough and only take 5 minutes to put new ones on.

Try some Grip Puppies. I have some on the FJ myself. Basically neoprene-type slip-ons for your existing rubber grips. Cost about £12-16. They are firm enough for grip, soft enough for comfort and bulk up the thinness of non-Cruiser grips quite nicely. They also work over heated grips, too. Put a bit of washing-up liquid on the inside and then just work them onto your bar grip. Once they're on and the liquid dries, they are solid as fuck. It's kinda like putting on a condom that's already unrolled! http://www.grip-puppy.co.uk Check out the website... and then coo over the CUTE AS HELL pic of the little puppies on the guy's hand!! Amazon have them, but AFAIK they don't actually come in different sizes for different models. One size fits all and you just trim the length down with a Stanley knife once they're on tight. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-Puppies-Throttle-Motorcycle-CoverCover/dp/B00F6S7ER8/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1379690754&sr=1-6&keywords=grip+puppy

Nah, not my kind of game. Tried Saints Row, laughed a bit but got bored rather quick.

Nip up Halfords and get some brushes. If you can, get some isopropyl alcohol on the greasy bits. If you do strip the grease off lubes parts, remember to re-lube them!!

Had the chain been kept lubed? Was it one of them with a split-link thingy? That could have popped off (seen it happen).

Lowering kit? On a Cruiser??!! Just how short *are* you, dude??

IMO the 1100 was a waste of time. Bigger engine, but a lot of weight with it. For the 20 extra HP, you get almost 100kg, IIRC. Ridden well, the 650 can still keep up. It has most of the same design flaws as the 650, plus the starter clutch is prone to failure and unless you get a relocation kit, you have to remove the pipes every time you change the oil filter. I'd advise getting the new 950, or if you want real kick go for the 1300/1900. Have a couple test rides, of course, though. See what you think.

I have several vices... smoking being the main one! If there's any job that results in me needing a cuppa afterward, it's too much hard work and likely cheaper/safer getting a professional to do it! Our tyre-fitting places are mostly ride-in or mobile, so the old tyre removal is taken as a given and part of the price anyway. However, I'm massively in favour of at least knowing how something is done, even if I can do it mesen', so muchas gracias Noisisas!!

Dunno... Don't really have any specific ones... Guy Martin, I suppose. Honest, open, down to earth and rides in the most challenging races I know of.

Not exactly in-depth mechanic stuff really, as it's in the manual intended for every owner. Sort of along the same basic lines as checking yer oil and should be easily accomplished just with the meagre toolkit they supply. Kinda why an owners manual comes with every bike.

What does it say in the table under section 6 of your Owners Manual, entitled Periodic Maintenance? If, for some insane reason you don't have the manual, download a FREE pdf copy off the official Yamaha website: http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/services/owner-manuals/index.aspx?pl=EN&c=MC&m=&y=2013&l=EN

We rarely get thanked for our efforts. I'm kinda used to it now, so I just enjoy being Mr. Knowitall... or at least Mr. Knows-how-to-download-the-manual-and-look-it-up!!

Meh. Tosser. Forget him and just keep an eye out for others while you build funds. The aforementioned FJ Owners Club often has bikes for sale and you're far more likely to get one in absolute top nick, usually with a wealth of accessories. For me, the ONLY reason to buy from a dealer is any legal comeback you might have if it's knackered.

That's the place - Fudge Motorcycles, run by Doc. And yes, he is THE go-to guy. He organised the UK owners club and even has a racing team that rides FJs on the track. Does pretty good, from what I hear!

I always go with Cabergs, myself. About £100, but they're the only ones that fit snug - The more expensive, the more a pain in the arse it is to get on and I've never found an Arai or Schuberth in my size that actually works for me. Added bonus that most of the Cabergs (with the surprising exception of 2) score the full 5 stars on SHARP!!

After riding the engine gets hot and so does the fuel in the tank, hence leaving room for expansion. Here, the sound of the expanded fuel vapour escaping through the filler cap vent is being likened to a single-note guitar whine, as commonly used by Jazz, Soul, R&B and Blues musicians - In this case, BB King. Of course, it's always better to explain one's random bollocks than just posting it!

Most mirrors can be fitted with extenders, ie longer stems. More so the kind that screw in. For fairing-mounted ones like yours, you usually have three options: 1/. Get aftermarket ones with longer stems. 2/. Seek/make spacers that go between the mounting brackets and the fairing. 3/. Find another make of mirror that is longer/wider/whatever you need. For example, I'm looking for a set of Bandit 1250 mirrors, as they fit straight on to my existing brackets, but have longer stems and wider mirrors.

Yes, very attached to all of my bikes. I was almost in tears when I learned my first Dragstar was beyond recovery, especially as it was just some shitty little ring of rubber that caused such devastation!! FJR1300 - AMAZING bikes!!! Ask anyone on the FJ Owners Club (FJOC) forums - A surprising number like them so much, they run 2 or even 3 of the same bike. Almost as good as its FJ1200 parent, in fact... almost. But then I'm biassed!! The FJ family is somewhat clunky (both chain and shafty), but nowhere near as much as the average Cruiser. I personally like it. It feels nice and solid, like driving a tank... well, FV432 in my case, but still hardy. The conking out at lights... Firstly, don't for a moment assume that the dealer knows anything about the bike, let alone has serviced it properly. For that, refer again to the FJOC - I'll send you a couple of links to their free tech pages that give a better lowdown on services, maintenance and things to look out for. One thing NO dealer ever does correctly, because they're lazy and Yamaha fucked up the tech, is servicing of the suspension linkages at the back. Basically it requires removal of the whole back end, including centrestand, so you have to hang it from an engine hoist or similar. Cheaper DIY solutions exist, too. Also, I don't like their website. Looks like some generic rip-off merchant. Anyway, for a basic chapter and verse on the FJRs, start here: http://fjclub.co.uk/#/buying-a-fjr1300/4546979445 Also, the Club has its own shop with some unique and parts custom-made exclusively for them alone. Membership costs about £17 a year, but is WELL worth the amount of support you get - They have dedicated FJ and FJR workshops too, but if they're too far away, you can even phone up. Basically, they offer everything you could possibly want or want to know for your bike!!

Chenowth LSV - 160HP Porsche diesel engine, but can also go on-road. Spider LSV - 130HP from a Peugeot Inline-4 turbo diesel, but also roadworthy. Both have a coolness rating far above anything else on the market. Even the sport buggies around 580cc only seem to get 40-odd HP, though... Military LSVs are bigger than you seem to want and likely costing more than specified... but the optional 30mm chaingun, Milan ATW or .50cal Browning machinegun utterly trumps ANY argument against them, heh heh!! Why the single seat? Seems most decent ones sub £6k are 2-seaters. Also, it seems kits are perhaps the cheaper way to go over pre-built, even second-handers. Dunno much about these things, but on price alone Google seems to win again: http://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/show/108822227/joyner-650.html This of interest? http://www.blitzworld.co.uk/2-kidsadults-off-road-c183.html

Top horsepower for any given bike kicks in at a certain number of revs, depending on your bike model. Yours reaches its maximum of 14HP at 6500rpm. Your statistical top speed is given as 68mph (110kph), meaning you'd have to rev it pretty hard to get much faster than you already are. The '78 Kawasaki, by comparison, is rated at only 10HP at 6300rpm, topping out at 58mph (94kph). Bear in mind though that as these things get used, they do drop in performance. Also, it depends how you rev it and govern the throttle. If you're going along and whack the throttle open, you will be stressing the engine too much and it will actually lag in performance. If you gradually increase the throttle, building your speed up you'll find you eventually get a higher top speed... eventually. A trick I used on my 125 Dragstar - Gear 1 was for moving off. Gears 2-3 were for playing in traffic. Gear 4 was for high speed moves (50-65mph, overtaking, etc) and getting up toward top speed. Once at around 65mph, I'd then shift to gear 5 and just cruise along, but slowly increase throttle over about 30 seconds to a minute. I'd then end up with a top speed of about 74mph.

Do I ever get it right? Most of my posts are my own opinions, based on my experiences and those of others I consider valid & of relevance. I suppose for the majority those turn out correct, as ye cannae change the laws of physics and all...

No need to ask. The larger the handgun calibre or the bigger cc of his BMW engine, the smaller 'it' is - Use that and make fun, heh heh!! Incidentally, I have no BMW and my weaponry tends to be around the .25 Berettas, Note this only works with handgun calibres as REAL men handle 12g, 7.62mm (5.56mm permissible *only* if it's issued or is in a H&K product) or 20mm and 60mm High Explosive. Good lord - It's a good job I'm employed to stop trains from derailing, as I'm otherwise only good for derailing forum threads!!