Ttaskmaster

It's a big, heavy bike and the fork rake means there's more of that weight going along the road, instead of down into it like you get on more racey bikes. Like your cornering, it's just a characteristic you need to factor in to your riding. However, I did find that fitting a Hagon shock (which was a couple inches longer than the standard) to my Cruiser raised the back end up and shortened the wheelbase a touch - This also reduced the rake and did actually make for better braking, as well as hastening the steering in corners!

Happy new years and stuff, my friends!! I dunno about you, but as it's freezing cold outside and since everyone here needs a hangover cure, I'm gonna do a massive barbecue!!

Aw sorry to hear about this, Laura. Here's hoping your bits get fixed and you're back out there very soon!!

OMG, is that really what I'm gonna be remembered for...? How come none of you have placed an order yet, anyway? We have a Christmas 2 for 1, you know!

Welcome Bru!! Fly over to mine on the 2nd - We're having a Winter braai!

No worries, mate, I understand.... just... try and have the garage door open when working with fluids in future, yeh?

IIRC, a bolt comes up from under the mudguard and the capped nut is the bit you see directly behind the pillion pad. Get a socket in beneath and undo the nut on top. Lift the back of the pad and pull rearwards. Assemble in reverse order. You putting saddlebags on?

Apparently, they do!! I imagine you have to filter it first, though.

I do know some people use their old engine oil....

I just use the blue stuff. A single 250ml bottle lasts me a good 18 months, despite the fairly high mileage and handily it even fits in a little placcy bag in the behind-seat compartment next to my toolkit, spare bulbs, tyre repair kit, maintenance log and so on!!

Used AA twice (once as a Noob, once when bike utterly karked it). Roadside repair is good, recovery not so much as it's usually a 3rd party - They had a flatbeddy-thingy for cars, but he got the bike on and correctly secured easy enough. Knew what he was doing at least...

When rain is that heavy, open visor and drop sun-visor (if it's light enough). Doesn't always work, but has saved me on occasion. I use anti-fog solution on the inside, but it needs reapplying frequently and rain getting inside the visor will wash it right off as it's essentially Fairy washing-up liquid. For the outside, I use MucOff cleaner and just wipe sideways with a glove. I am heavy on my kit, so Vee-Wipes don't last long and I still don't trust Rain-X (supposedly makes the visor brittle, as it's designed for glass not plastic). If it's THAT bad - as it was for me a couple months ago where the spray was coming from 18" up the sides of vehicles, reducing visibility to 20' and we were doing serious motorway speeds - then you have no choice but to pull off and wait for conditions to improve - Believe me, continual eyefulls of stinging, salty, filthy water laden with road crap will soon prove how unsafe the riding conditions are!!

My family, spending money, ice & snow, worse driving than normal, compulsory holiday, heating bills, expensive food and that FUCKING CHRISTMAS MUSIC EVERYWHERE...!!!!!

Don't get me wrong - We help in spades... But like most Bikers, such things usually start with "Hello..."

It's generally considered good manners, or forum 'Netiquette', to post an intro in the relevant section, before starting on the requests for help... especially when all you have done in this particular case is merely announce that there's an issue with your bike. Think of it as walking into your local biker bar, where no-one knows you, and you just speak that exact same post in a loud voice... The crew here are brilliant, friendly, helpful and knowledgable folk... but also mercilessly sarcastic toward 'One-Post Wonders', who generally come along expecting/demanding free solutions to bike issues and then vanish off without a word of thanks. It happens a lot. This is a social community, so do the social thing - Pop up an intro post in the New Members section, tell us a bit about yourself and you'll find a far friendlier response!!

I think I see the problem...

According to most DT125 owners manuals, the engine number is stamped into the crank case, a little way above the left footpeg. The frame number is on the headstock, probably right hand side. The model label is "affixed to the frame, under the seat". Incidentally, if you want a free owners manual, Yamaha themselves have some to download, here: http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/services/owner-manuals/index.aspx?category=motorcycles I actually know fuck-all about DTs myself, but there are a shedload of riders here who do and will hopefully be along shortly to further advise!

Wotcha Rintski! With regard to the DT, if you don't have the V5 or anything, I'd suggest starting with the number plate. Here's the basics of how they all work: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_the_United_Kingdom,_Crown_dependencies_and_overseas_territories If that doesn't help, pop back here and give us a shout. Might be able to tell from the VIN or somesuch.

Even funnier if you overlay the theme to Sons Of Anarchy on it!!

Something more fundamental with biking and drumming: They're obsessed with getting the timing right!!

Might be useful for some folks. I'm fine with the old-school methods.

Heidenau make tyres that fit. You can probably get them from Wemoto, or through your preferred tyre fitting place. SAVA used to do the MC7 set for front and rear. Metzeler also did the ME22/ME77 Classic set for front/rear respectively. Both may still be available through your tyre fitter. Bridgestone and Dunlop probably have some as well, though I don't know for sure.

I suspected as much. But hey, you can still get some and use it later. It'll come in handy for other locks, that will doubtless seize around this time of year, too. A little palm-size spray can will last for ages!

Who ya callin' an old fart, Slicey?

NOOOOOO!!!!!!!! Get some graphite grease spray. WD40 may free up the lock to begin with, but it will also trap grit along the way and foul the mechanism. Graphite grease actually helps to drive the muck out and keep the lock working freely.