Ttaskmaster

The original ones... You mean the 5mm(ish) thick, 3D relief ones? They're just stuck on top, AFAIK... Should be able to get 'em from Yammie direct, innit?

Eat loads of beans, then flatten your body against the tank, max out on the throttle in top gear and then fart.

Contact PartFinder or go on the webshite. They will search many breakers for you.

That was going easy.... for me, anyway The other option was for me to say "Haven't got a clue", so I opted for the more useful reply. As I thought. I don't know what would be involved in a swapover, but I'd guess it's more time, money and trouble than it's worth, unless you specifically wanted to do it as a fun project. Not if they're looked after, no...

Nope - RAF Police wear white-topped peaked caps, hence the nickname. IGDT Flight (Initial Ground Defence Training) is staffed by the Rockapes - RAF Regiment. Everyone else who's not a Rockape is a Penguin.

"Ok.... He needs to go on Autotrader and find similar bikes with similar mileage selling for more in his area (I would put that to about 60-100 miles from his home postcode). Print off these (taking copies for himself). Also if he can compile all the service history including any recent bits he has done, although this doesn't actually add value, it shows that the bike was well looked after and so should be more likely to demand a higher cost if sold. Another useful thing to do is - if he knows someone in the bike industry who could lay their hands on a Glass's Guide (which is used by insurance companies when coming up with the valuation), find out the top retail price, private sale price and trade-in value of his bike, noting any mileage difference and use this against the insurance company to up the offer. The best thing to do is call the insurance company, explain that he was expecting a higher figure (good to have one in his mind - although be realistic!) and state that he has been on the net and seen his bike being sold for more locally, plus he is aware that the Glass's Guide figure is higher (this is probably the case), have this information to hand and the capability to fax/post to them if requested. If he is calm and friendly and is clear that he only wants a few hundred more, then they may just up the offer to get rid of him and close the file. He must be aware that the "insured for" value means nothing when it comes to a total loss/theft payout. If he doesn't get any joy then I would write to the manager of the department (get their name from the person he talks to) explaining why the bike was worth more (so include the Autotrader print outs). Give it about a week or so and then call up if he has not heard anything. It is always worth trying to get a fair price for something that you have insured. Unless of course you are desperate for the cash!"

They base it on model, age, mileage and condition. They use the same guide books as the Dealers and they always offer you less. DO NOT take their first offer. My other half used to work in this field. I'll ask her advice.

The 400 is an import only version and not all that common, either... You'd probably get enough money selling it to buy a good nick 650 and still have change for custom add-ons, extra gear and a trip round the country!! Unless you're a mechanical hobbyist and fancy doing the 400 mods for fun?

The chip shop in Wendover is crap!! Everything in Wendover is crap Stay on base. Make friends with IGDT Flight (RAF Regiment) and the Snowdrops. If Lee Edmonds is your DI, you'll be fine. Best of luck!!

Nice one!! Let us know how it goes, eh? Welcome to the forum, little drummer-boy!!!

Did I hear my name called? Woody to the rescue..... 'Kay... Since I've done this about 20 times in the past two years - Here's what I do: 1/. Tank full o' petrol is heavy. You may wanna go for a long ride, to make the job easier. Park up, switch everything off. Very important, this. You may wish to put the bike up on a jack or something so it's upright. Makes no bones to me, but some people prefer it. 2/. Undo the three bolts holding the speedo in place. They screw into rubber bushes, so be gentle. You might want a thin flathead to help lever them up. 3/. Combine lifting the speedo unit with threading the speedo cable back up toward the top of the tank. This makes it easier, reduces strain on parts and gives you more space to work. 4/. BEFORE you undo the speedo cable, tie a bit of string tightly around it. This stops the nut from sliding down into the bodywork and pissing you off later. 5/. Unplug the electric connectors. You won't confuse 'em when you plug them back in later as they're different shapes. Tie another bit of string round them. 6/. Turn the fuel tap to OFF. Make sure you've turned the fuel tap to OFF. Check again. 7/. Use a pair of pliers and squeeze open the clamp around the fuel line. Slide it back alone the hose. Have a big wad of towel/rag/kitchen paper handy and hold it under the fuel line. Pull the line off and let the small amount of fuel drain out of it onto the towel. 8/. Undo the two nuts either side of the tank at the back. One holds the Choke on, the other is on the opposite side (you already know where these are). 9/. Straddle the bike in a manly fashion. 10/. Grasp the tank either side, about the logos and pivot forward, like lifting a toilet seat. The tail end of the tank should come upward. Combine this lifting with a 'yawing' wiggle and a backwards movement. The tank should work it's way free of the rubber bushes that hold it in place. You will feel it come free. 11/. Once the tank is free and before you lift it from the bike, carefully thread the electrics and speedo cable through the hole in the tank. Try and rest the tank on a folded thick towel, a pillow or summat. Keeps it from getting scratched up. Assemble in reverse order, noting the following: 1/. Tank back on - This is a fiddly job. You'll need to thread the speedo and electrics back up, but at the appropriate moment. This is where the string helps. Straddle bike and hold the front end of the tank. The back end kind of sits on your thighs, leaving you a hand free to fiddle with the strung parts. If the string is long enough, thread that through first and keep it taught to pull the parts through when needed. Position the tank ready for the rubber bushes, lifting the back end. It basically goes forward then pivots down into it's seating. Waggle it into place and thread the strung parts when they will reach, It's easier to do the electrics first and then the speedo. The tank might need some firm (but careful) shoving to get it that last bit into place. 2/. Don't take the string off until you've reconnected the parts!!! 3/. Bolts back in (don't forget the choke) and reconnect speedo unit. 4/. Reattach speedo unit. When putting bolts back in here, use a dab of copperslip around the threads. Don't overtighten or you'll kill the rubbers. 5/. Fuel hose back on (just push), hose clamp back in place. Use pliers on the clamp as it's just easier. Check everything, recheck and ONLY then turn fuel back on. Start her up, take for a test ride, make sure everything works. Particular attention to speedo and instrument lights. When satisfied, buy me a pint!! Any questions - Here I am.

A shop. There are many places to get the brackets and literally hundreds of shops that will sell a myriad styles of saddlebags. Pick one. Any parts shop will be able to get the official genuine OEM Yamaha brackets and almost all of them will have a few suppliers of Aftermarket versions. M&P MPS Hein Gericke eBay Local dealer Local parts shop Local accessories shop Local bike rally Fowlers George White Almost anywhere. There are even exotic versions you can get from the States.

Beam levels? You mean where the headlight shines? Not really - MOT places have special sighting assemblies to check this. However, it's usually very easy to correct. On my bike there's one screw that controls the up/down and one that controls the left/right. When doing the MOT, stay with the bloke and have him talk you through the checks. Unless he's a complete c**t, he will correct (or let you correct) the simple/minor stuff like this right there and then, thus allowing you to pass MOT!!

Well, I know some bikes auto-cancel after 15 seconds or so, but I consider self-cancelling to be more like the mechanism on a car. Goldwings probably do it too, don't they? They do everything. But no bike I've ever ridden myself has had SC indicators.. including some '08 models. But anyway - What's the deal with this Running Light concept? On, Off or depends on your bike/state laws etc?

Nowt wrong with that. I'm sure I'll love driving when I finally get my APC!!! Nay, 'tis FALSE!! Fahren is German for 'travel', not just driving but by any means (except the foot)

TPFT is for damage YOU do to someone else. HIS insurance covers what HE does to you, so it'll be him and his that pay out to you. Others can better advise on the legal side, but I reckon it's him at fault 100%. As for riding.... only you can answer it. Get a car, have a crash, have a slide or just have a moment of distraction - The risks are still the same. Plenty of people still crash and die in cars, get impaled on steering columns etc etc. Many even get run over while walking. There is still a point and it's the very point that got you on the bike in the first place. A friend of mine had several serious accidents in a very short space. He sold up and quit riding. Within 6 months, in the middle of Winter, he was back on 2 wheels again, loving every second of it. Another friend lost a leg in a 15mph motorcycle incident. He went on to become one of Essex's most reknowned Advanced Riding Instructors. Take time out, recover, get past this and only then consider what you want to do.

He was describing the effect being in a car has on him. Most people drive very differently to how they ride. My own OH becomes an absolute demon.

Cheers, chap.

Ja ja, you stick it to Da Man, Gas-up!!! I ride every single day, all year, all weathers. Used to walk everywhere because cars were so bloody expensive and because it kept me fit. Cars are still fecking expensive. I don't even blink when spending out on anything for the bike!! I probably wouldn't mind driving, but I'll be picking a vehicle that suits me anyway. Something like an upgraded ex-military Landrover, with oodles of add-ons and custom gadgetry. As is, I sometimes ride with the OH in her car, but we often argue because I'd rather we rode....

Silver and yellow Yamaha 600 Thunder Cat has been stolen from Crawley. The vehicle reg is P81 VGP. Anyone offered a whole bike or parts please let us know.

Coming along nicely. Good work, chap!!!

I thought only Beemers had self-cancelling indicators...

Mate of mine has a Honda Nighthawk 550. His indicators are always on. This is what confused the heck outta me when I first saw it. Apparently it's particular to US bikes and standards may have changed since '83

Get up to speed as quickly as safety allows. For example - When joining a 70mph road you need to get up to speed fast enough to merge with the traffic. Do not speed. When in a 30 limit, hover between 35 and 30. Fast pull-aways and fast corners mean nothing and may count against you. Slow versions of these also count against. What they want to see is appropriate speed. Don't take ages turning right into a minor road, don't go so slowly that you hold up traffic, don't go so fast that you cannot manoeuvre safely. That's what they're looking for on speed. However, you will be examined on every aspect that you've covered in CBT.

Loose wire, bad earth, blown bulb, rusted contacts, dirt.....