Cynic

Ker ching, £££££ Well that's £130quid in Fowlers coffers for the seals and gaskets to fix the TDR, not including £110 for 2 mitaka +0.1mm pistons although they are full piston kits. I have spent the extra on all the PV seals and o rings. They were ok but i'm not chancing them failing in 6 months time and I took the cost of a gen Yamaha cyl head gasket on the chin too. Don't want that going either.

Believe it or not looking at the damage I think she had her first moment BEFORE I rode up to squires. The barrel showed signs of carbon build up on the barrel at a spot where the first contact was made, I think she did another 600miles before finally stopping when more of the piston failed. Bloody amazing really, 4 stroke wouldn't do it. On parts of that rideout we were well into 30mpg territory and she kept going. I felt something was off but the failing battery giving false ideas on the pv being at fault masked things would not have thought it was piston failure on that level. Talking of pv anybody with a yam 2 stroke with a pv system that's done a few miles it will be a mess. Mine has only 14k and the crap on the pv and built up on the bushings is shocking. Def affecting performance, I could barely turn the pv by hand.

Nice intro. There are a few divvy fans here so you should be running in no time. Welcome

Any smaller and you can't see the pin yer cheeky f....

I'll save slice the text time. General form is to introduce yourself in the new members area, the amount of 1 post questions that come would surprise you and it makes people unlikely to reply. An introduction goes a long way to help that, as does with due respect, punctuation. Say hi and give your post a quick edit to show your issue more clearly and you will get plenty of help.

That's better still too big though , you can see how the ring peg has worn on the rh piston. Ring gap max is 0.45mm, on this ring its .63, that's buggerd. And the one that makes you cringe, you can see where it was working till the final pickup.

The other piston was close too. Just trying to sort some pictures, keep making them too BIG.

Bulbs are all ok. If i had a quid....? Please say you have swapped the bulb with a known good one from one of the other indicators.

No problem. Good luck with the parts hunt.

Simple answer. No. They are 2 different systems. You may be able to get the coils separately. One option could be a 125E stator as that uses points you would need the flywheel too. It has bigger openings to set the points. One way or another at the moment your trying to fit a square peg in a round hole.

Have you got any of that piston tape? I only have 2.0mm oversize tape.

The G has the later ig system. That has only 1 pick up coil where your cdi needs 2. Simple choice now is to either get a G cdi and fit that, or get a E stator and fit that. Not sure of availability your side of the pond but just going on the numbers, I would think changing the cdi would be the smarter move as they only used that cdi for maybe 12 months tops to 79, from 79 through to 81, bit of 82 they used the later cdi. One thing you could try is swap the connection at the cdi of the white with red tracer and connect it to the red cdi input. You may find it will run to around 4 or 5k (where the other coil would take over)

What you should have on a 175E, 1, 4 pin plug with yellow, white and light blue. (the white is green and white between the plug and the stator. 4 separate wires, red, brown, white and red tracer and a black. The 4 separate wires above go direct to the cdi nowhere else, with there being a black and white, a black and an orange from the cdi, the b/w being engine stop, orange to the coil and black as the cdi earth. On the later system the red line is deleted as the cdi can handle the full range with one pick up coil.

20kmiles maybe on the new coated barrels. old skool like ours john id still be expecting at least a set of rings by this kind of mileage, there is a definite wear ridge at the extremes of piston travel. The power valve is coked up as it is, stiff to operate by hand and the base gasket was wet too so something was going to go pop . Found the actual cause too, the ring peg was fitted too far into the piston. It is sat back from the edge by maybe a mm not much, looks like the ring made it past with a bit of ware and rotated till it reached the port and bang. Thankfully all the crap went straight out the pipe by the looks of things.

Wow Drewps that's perfect timing, really useful stuff. Ta

Ok that's a DT175E, 1978. That has the cdi ig, the earlier 2 coil cdi with a high and low speed trigger circuit. There are not enough coils on your stator for that system, (same as my dt) and your stator certainly doesent look like mine. How many wires do you have coming from the stator and what connections do you have at the cdi, I would expect 7 at the cdi and 6 from that stator.

Just wear mate, tore it down earlier and looks like its been running for quite a while with a busted ring. What I thought was fussy carburation and a thirst for plugs was just the compression getting lower and lower. She went a bit weird at squires do last year but she settled down then looking at the piston what was a dink became a lot bigger and finished it off. She would still run over 4000rpm believe it or not, just under that she would sulk. Getting the piston off was a real bstard, didn't want to fit past the wear ridge due to the damage. As to the cause, its never been bored so id go with 14000miles. Bout right for a 2t. Looks like 250 maybe 300 quid should see it right.

Hmm, what does your engine number start with? That looks like a points stator that's been 'modified'. It even looks like the bracket that would hold the oil wiper on the cam just under the crank.

When she dropped onto one cyl, wasn't the idle jet.... Not carb related at all, ring picked up on the exhaust and so no compression. Have about 12mm of piston ring with me now sat by the computer. bet we have a month of sun now guys enjoy....

Need a picture of the stator then.

The 12v bikes have a different stator. Easier to ask if its electric start.

Pictures would be good. Doesn't need to be video. I noticed your region flag last night. Its not 12v is it?

You don't need to worry on that yet. Were just seeing if adjusting the stator makes a difference. It may do bugger all, if so were one step closer to fixing her. If it does make a big difference were a lot of steps. The only marks will be one on the plate and one on the rotor with god alone knows how many 'owner' markings. If it makes a difference then we can make new timing marks. If not put it back where it was and move on. One thing is you cannot in any way hurt a 2 stroke mechanically messing with the timing. Your thinking 4 stroke.

Struth mate. Buying a bike naked. Hope it was a warm day.

First and important mark the engine case and the stator plate so it wont wipe away so you have your current position. Now seeing as were just fault finding. Losen the stator plate (careful the screws are made of warm cheese) then rotate the plate clockwise 2 or 3mm. Thats mm, 8th to a quater inch in old money. Max. Retighten the screws. Pop the rotor on and see what happens. Then repeat but going the other way from your original mark. Note she may not be so easy to start so dont keep trying and flood it. Let us know what happens. Crank seal wont help squirt with wd and see if the bike runs better.