Cynic

Ok big tip. Take out the pads. Put something between the pistons so they dont press together, also strong enough for you to lever the pistons back. Pump the pistons out. NOW dissconect the banjo and swap the connection to the new MC. Now with the new MC properly connected push back the pistons in the caliper. Now top up and re fit your pads and your done.

Meh. Not sure on scottoilers for little bikes. They don't have the more stable vacume of bigger engines. Got one on my TDR and it either drenches everything or you get odd drops. Prob down to it running flatsides.

Hang on, if its your niece not your daughter, how do you know ?

The other week. Sounds like that tenner was an expensive bargain.

Its why i don't trust dealers. Somebody's innatention couple of months ago has cost you big time.

General protocol on here is to use the new members area to introduce yourself to the members. There are so many one post wonders that never so much as acknowledge the input from the people that reply. There are plenty of people on here know the little ybr. Say hi and your far more likley to get a reply.

Congrats the ones you can spoil and give back are the best. Do that with my nephew, fill him full of sugar before my sister turns up. In other news. Caption competition for the two in the background.

True, always wondered what Woodhead Pass is like by bike. Been over enough in the truck, once just!, I mean just! dodging a snow storm that stranded trucks that came behind me for a couple of days. Sorted the double post John.

Sounds like you might have other issues then. Just to check, your not 25 stone or something similar, or going up a respectable grade? I say this as im 13stone well nearer 13 than 14, my DT will rev to the limiter in top, screams its knackers off if I let it to be honest. I will admit that more go would be nice. I think its why I like my TDR250 as that really does feel like a sorted DT with a skip load of extra go.

We don't have to sit around drinking bad coffee beforehand either, depending on the weather Gods most of East Yorkshire is open to us. As well as a smaller bit for Andy.

Just back track through the loom till you find the connectors, then either disconnect or bypass as required. Not like its needed for the mot.

Yay she lives, and running better than she has in a LONG time. Compression must have been dropping badly as I can't turn her over by hand at the minute, I used to be able to START it by hand. Only a gentle tootle round the block so far but it feels like it could break the sound barrier if I opened the throttle. Feels crisp and sharp. Just got to run her in now, get 20 or 30 miles on the bores then ride normal avoiding full tit for as long as I can stand.

Nah, lemon juice, ie citric acid wont harm aluminium. Its non ferrous so its caustic that can really damage it. ie oven cleaner (although by the by that stuff is really weak), make sure you wear ppe while your working it. Vinegar works too. Just be careful with the oven cleaner. Although that gunk you use with the bag really works on decoking spannies.

Elbow grease and things like petrol, thinners and a toothbrush. Try the pound shops, one near me called rock bottom does big cans of carb cleaner for £2.99. Works on the outside as well as the inside. For god sake dont try to polish them, just let them age with dignity (aluminium will bloom just with age) unless you want to spend your life with a polishing mop.

They are readily available unless you want a proper period correct thing.

Finally had the days confirmed, had too much holiday booked to close together apparently so had to wait so its 'fair'. Wankers. Anyho got the green light now and will be up on the Friday. What about going our own way on the rideout, to Scarborough or something. Its not a lot further than Seaways.

OOps 5.5v at 3000rpm 8v max at 8000rpm. Would you like some chips with the battery. Maybe some brown sauce.

NO!, you need a smaller rear, bigger front sprocket for higher speed. That will be at the expense of acceleration though. Its a ratio, standard gearing is 16/49 with 118 links. You wont get a bigger sprocket on and you need to make big changes to the rear to have an effect. Not forgetting there is a ratio between the sprocket and the rear wheel its mounted on. A smaller rear sprocket will need more effort to make the wheel turn. 16/49 or 49divided by 16 gives 3.062 for stock ratio. 13/40 gives 3.07 so close to stock, leaving you 2 teeth on the front to adjust but remember the smaller sprockets may affect the chain run. You already have a 45 rear so you could already be at 2.812 with a 16 front, that's a 10% increate already. Not sure there is the horse power for more. But that should give high 50's at 7000rpm. Personally I don't like using max rpm on these old girls, it kills them pretty readily, in top I stay at 6500 to 7000 rpm. (May hit 9 on the way up though, )

Yep, 50ish is about right, like blackhat said. Upping the gearing takes you up to about 60 ringing its neck. The Australian (India, eastern Europe etc) bikes that came later had more modern top speed. Aussies were getting them up to early 2000's, they get better carburation and torque induction, prob more advanced porting too

Perfect example, commuter dullness or this...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZR-400-RR-EXUP-4DX-UK-MODEL-/251986089740?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aab8a970c

One suggestion, if your on a buget try to avoid the basket cases. Bikes pass through a point where they have little value but are still great, that will be what your looking for. Can you not keep the ybr for the daily grind then get something that will light the blood on a weekend. Commuters are great and all but, well, they are commuters, the Mondeo's of the motorcycle world. An FZR600, maybe a GSXR400 (bloke I work with does 50 miles a day on his GSXR400 year round). They can be bought for under a grand for a tidy one. They could still get you to work but you would have a silly grin when you got there, then when the weather is cack, take the YBR as fast don't matter then. Maybe a 2 stroke (im biased) A 350b would do all you need or an XS400 is a good blend of economy and go. Just don't get trapped by the showroom lights, there are a lot of tidy classics out there for not much. Also it is FAR too easy to get caught speeding these days to. I deliberately picked a bike that is at its best between 60 and 90. Downsizing from a 600.

That's the one, lets the cylinders leach off each other better top end and better torque, (for a 2 stroke). The exhaust/ mixture gasses travel a surprising distance in the engine. Next time you pull one down with decent mileage check out the transfers, they will have carbon build up from the exhaust gasses. Same in the reed block if its mounted on the barrel.

Would suggest you pick one or the other login and stick to it or are you 2 people on one router? Will get confusing otherwise,

The grease monkey on Wheeler Dealers used some in one of the cars they 'rescued'. Think it was an alpine but may be wrong. You can't just whack it in I think you have to do a few things first to flush out the system of muck and such. IIRC its boiling point is up in the 140deg c range so there is no pressure except for the pumping, also has a low freeze point so no antifreeze needed. Worth it? Don't know, what will you spend on coolant in the next 20years, also once you swap you cannot top up with anything other than this so if you do get a leak on the mway from say a bad hose or gasket, something striking the rad you could have problems. Is the corrosion issue that much, unlike a car the water doesn't go far in bikes, bit in the water jacket and around the head. Very unlikely to ever get enough corrosion to cause problems as long as you use an additive. Good for a race bike, bit much for the road I think. Would like to know what others think though.

If your talking about the green/white that changes to white in the main loom that's your rectified DC feed for the bike, battery charging and the like. As well as the lighting. Depends on if the lights are on as to which.