Cynic

Couple of points after rereading. You mentioned the pulser coil resistance being different, you didn't mention if it ran differently. The other elephant in the room for me is the 1500rpm change from the cdi change. Could it be that the ig timing has slipped, or changed through age. I would bet when you stripped the motor for the rebuild you carefully marked the ig as is proper. Did you actually check the ig timing?

Hmm, have you rewired the connections to the cdi, I mean the actual wires. When I rewired my DT I found several instances where wires had been used that were too short and had connections within the loom to use 2 shorter bits of wire.

A1990 CBR1000, from a 125, are you mad. Massive difference in weight, massive difference in power, similar braking ability. Very dropsy as far as handling goes, not the easy riding stuff of today you have to bully the 90's bikes around. And streetfightered, time bomb. Streetfighters come about because the owner has thrown it down the road and fixed it cheap. An old streetfighter unless it has been a deliberate build I wouldn't touch with yours. It may be harsh but you wanted views, the virago will do you nothing but good.

One question, Have you ever worked on a TDM?

I would recommend saying high in the new members area. So you haven't got a manual for it then?

Kind of depends if your on the table or not really. Or someone really misunderstood the idea of 15 to 1. Kev obviously put himself in the table spot, bit of a froidian moment there??

I understand the connection, my DT is currently in the same position I parked it 18mths ago. Bought my DT when I was nearly 17, im now 44. Welcome aboard, lot of DT love here, Airheads another LOOONG time DT owner. Think he bought his new!

? Your charging circuit is the white wire. The brown feeds the cdi, if its a bad coil your cdi wont be getting enough voltage to actually work.

Had to ask. Id be pulling the old one open, or selling it on evilbay usa

So, obvious question. Was that the same problem as your original? Have to say it would have been in bits long ago with me. Anything 'broke' on the bike I pull apart so I know it better if there is a next time.

1 of, got that right.

Welcome, don't see 3ma's much, make my TDR seem common. You should get some help with that here:- http://pure2strokespirit.net/forums/index.php?PHPSESSID=f08979a25c4ab5a23c3daa8b84aa794e& Were more all things Yamaha, little more banter. Little less serious. Then when we want to be really subject focused and put on our anoraks we nip off to whatever model specific forum we use.

Have you actually checked the flow out of the tank, there is a filter in there and in the tap. Also, multiple threads almost never get replies, it confuses people.

Hmmmmmmmmm bikerporn...

You certainly have most people beat on actually getting the most from an SR. Daily use. Nicking my trophy at squires. Needing a windbreak on the A1.

That shows the quality of proper tuning. That initial surge then on to the full power twin band hit at 6k. Need to check your licence though. Prob above A2.

Every connection on the bike will show continuity to the battery. You need to break the connections to check reliably. You check voltage from the live to either the engine, sound and clean frame connection or directly to the battery negative. What is your battery voltage with the everything off. No keys in. That is the most your going to get. Now you need to work back through the loom to each connection checking the voltage. Keep going back untill you get a good voltage reading and that generally highligts the issue. Dont forget you need the ig on as well.

Electrical problems are tricky. The fuses are good. Secondly where did you actually check those voltages and to what. The tail light will not be bright enough to outshine the brake light so you have an issue there. The 'ride' light which im assuming is low beam is on an entirely separate circuit to the side light (aux). They only share an earth? I would be checking the earths in the headlight.

Repeating the topic doesent help.

I heard it liked looking at mopeds when they had their oil changed.

Good man. Dont forget to loosen the sprocket nut (s). BEFORE you remove the chain. Much easier then if they play tight.

I would sugest taking the time to post a proper introduction in the new members area. Then ask a proper considered question. At the moment, going by the logic of what you put in, you get out. I very much doubt you will get a reply other than this.

Didnt you get there at the last squires?

Never mind. I grew up helping my dad service cars out the front of our house. Works a treat normally.

So long as the rest of the system is sound the only air that gets in will be at the connection and in the cyl. This way you push fluid up that is known to be good. It will also fill and prime the replacement mc. Good luck.