Cynic

Well seeing as we have done the usual amount of cock all as far as other meets go, Squires it is. Thing is after last year's mystery tour where we found our way there by, lets call them less mainstream roads. I figured going one better this year. Esp after using some of the roads in the peak district last week. Only get one life and all. Andy and I will be meeting at Thrapston Services on the Friday at a time TBC, they are roughly equidistant from both of us so a good point to kick off. Then head off through Oundle, then Oakham, Melton (good roads there) up the A6 for a bit. Basically a diagonal getting us to Derby then maybe a bit more A6, pick up the A57 past Ladybower, skirt Glossop picking up the road over Saddleworth Moore then across through Pontifract and up to Squires. All of that is little more than a general direction. The only real focus is the Ladybower Resi something Andy and myself want to ride. Not a quick or short trip but we have all day to do it and with a few stops for pics, coffee and fuel (for us and the bikes) it will be a bit of an adventure. So long as the weather is kind it will be good., may be able to meet up with a few of you lot on the way through. For a little 125 and a 250 built for 30mile blasts were both going into Ewan and Charlie mode lol. I haven't checked with Finnerez89, hopefully he may join us too. See you there.

Yep. Needs the sidecover off to check. Soon too! debris could contaminate the gearbox causing it to jam if extreem.

Wash?

Yamaha can give you more info. That number should mean more to the dealer.

Dont know where that comes from but its wrong. The bike uses rectified dc for the indicators.

Vin's were a bit hit and miss in 1990 they were just starting to come on stream for mx stuff. A lot of the time mx bikes change as soon as there bought. You can get parts using the 3sp model code, that is a 1990 yz 250 but the number doesn't tell you much.

Wow, that nut isn't supposed to be mega ball twistingly tight. Hope you stripped the nut.

A bike clutch is very different to a car clutch, it has more in common with a formula 1 car than a Mondeo. I would still suspect the mechanism. I have never know total drive loss from a clutch pack, slip yes but not total loss. The way it works makes it nigh on imposible. Even more so seeing as its a YBR.

Lets put a better spin on it, I failed the practical for my class 1, a while ago now,. That was £250 for the retest and another £250 for the truck and instructor for the 2 hrs needed. And yes I paid for MY HGV licence, to find you need another 500 quid after stumping up £1500 to start with hurts. Didn't have a theory test to do though...

I think if we take our time so we dont damage us or the bikes. Neither are long distance bikes, but with good weather going along snake pass, past Ladybower and up over Saddleworth Moor should be doable.

I find it easier to just not go in..

Cheers bip. Will take you up on that. Have to concentrate not to go into lorry mode when i navigate. Hell may even do Ladybower res too.

Wow. Disintegrate. Are you sure. It might just need adjustment. What did it do?

I always think those roads are what motorcycling is made for. Not scraping your knees at 1000mph. But beeing able to get out to places like that. Andy. So long as its not coming down cats and dogs we can take all day. Have to think about fuel too. Need to refuel every 70 to 80 miles to be safe. If the weather is good the top of woodhead pass is amazing. Although i have driven it in the winter and if the cloud/fog/mist clears its just as stunning.

Well not just you Paul, but any folk live around you. Had to run from Trafford Park to Derby today and went cross country down the A6 then heading for Chesterfield. Wow I have got to get up there and ride those roads, I think it whenever I run that neck of the woods in the truck but over the last 12mths they have been keeping us local with a lot more drops than distance so this was a treat for me. They thought it was a problem... (huh? great roads and scenery on a beautiful day). Anyway I think im going to go up that way to squires, I keep saying I want to avoid the dual carriageway crap I spend all day on and this year its happening. Run up the A6, then towards Glossop for a bit so I can use Woodhead Pass then on to Squires. Andy, fancy an even bigger adventure/lost/explore than last year? No motorways.... The SR up for it?

But that isnt a solution. Its just half as wrong.

As you have the LED's that are diodes anyway why not fit both in the idiot light housing. One connected to the left circuit. The other to the right.

Are they 12v led's. Dont forget as a temporary fix just temove the bulb.

Because at the moment the idiot light doesent have an earth per se. Its connected to both sides at the same time. Using the non flashing side for earth. You need the feed to go to the bulb then to earth. So both sides of the indicator circuit need to be connected together at what you decide is the positive side of the bulb. Using the diodes makes it possible. Then there will be no current crossover and only 1 set of indicators will light. The other option is the resistors you fit at the indicators on the bike but for me that defeats the power saveing of having led's in the first place.

Should be, 50Va may cover it. Idiot light will be about 6w, at 12v that's 0.5A You will soon know if it doesent. You need to connect the output from both diodes to the + side of the idiot light, in this case the opposite of what you choose to earth. Then connect what were the feeds to the idiot light to the diodes. That should do it. Providing the diodes can handle it.

The idiot light uses electrical principles to work, It uses the opposite side to that which is flashing as the earth, this works because the remaining current left in the circuit after the bulb is not sufficient to light the bulbs in the circuit but they work fine as an earth for the idiot light. Crucially the LED's will quite happily light on the power left in the circuit. Std indicators will pull, 21w x 2. divide by 12 dives roughly 2amps. So you need a minimum of 2A to run normal indicators, no surprise the un selected side stays dark on the negative side of the idiot light (5w, uses maybe 0.3A) The led's want mA, the 0.3A will run the LED's easily. You need to modify the system slightly, (there may be something sold by the LED people for this, hardly an uncommon issue). OR, fit diodes in the feeds to the idiot light, connect both of these to the + side of the idiot light and earth the other side. Or fit a second idiot light. Or disconnect the idiot light till the mot then put the indicator system back to std for the mot man.

Its a Dt125 lc. Replacement for the Dt125/175 aircooled bikes and in essence not a great deal different. Mostly cosmetic.

Never ridden with Kev then? Stopping distance table stops a little early. If you get my drift.

Don't get too hung up on oil. Its all pretty similar. Any motorcycle oil will be fine in the 650. Your hardly stressing the oil in that engine. You will be changing it regular anyway. Its the car oil , motorcycle oil bit thats important. Car oil has addatives that can ruin a motorcycle clutch. Also motorcycle oil can cope with the stresses of being used in a gearbox. Not gauranteed with car oil.

Regulator will die with no battery and your headlight voltages will be all over the place. Engine will run fine.