Cynic

Remember to check your master cyl as it might not be allowing the fluid to return, old hoses can do that too. Could have some slight warpage too, my Suzuki discs warped to a dished profile. Didn't feel any vibes but it dragged, which heated the disc which caused more warp etc

Top right of this page, see the search box? Type 'heated grips' into that.

Glad it was simple, did they not tell you this when you picked up the parts?

You need to tear it down to find the problem, the tzr 125 piston is a little disconcerting, I thought they were slightly different sizes. Depends on year/model etc though.

Possibly. Some 125 were cdi. Some had points. Without you having done an introduction (HINT) in the new members area. Were guessing. Prob find it will come ready for the 7wire cdi and just use what you need.

I think, and may be wrong, that its there to stop the fluid sloshing about as the level changes and causing bubbles and ruining your fluid. I have gone with flat tbh, never really thought on it too much, but I think the vacuum of the fluid dropping will pull it down as the level drops. Yeah fine thanks Pat, you should drop in more often.

Please keep in mind random threads make any kind of help impossible. Use this thread until you solve the issue to some sort of end. I have removed the other multiple posts and maybe a proper introduction in the new members area, as apposed to reposting your problem will give you a much better response. Things like skill level, is this your first bike etc. Its not google fix for yams, just a lot of mates that like to help out folk. Thx.

Dodgy electrically, but a working brake light and starter, steering damper and flawless bodywork., prob drilled or new sump and caliper bolts too. Very likely EX PRIVATEER RACE/TRACK BIKE. Just been put back together in a rush or just didn't know/could not remember how. Walk quietly away and wait for something better.

Need to know what gets it working again (or appears to) to help.

If you have tried 3 carbs then you must have got something wrong elsewhere, the carb just looks like the problem because of the choke. Either there is a bad seal in there, (could you have torn it during fitting) or not notice a wear ridge on the seal seating area. Also, in the past I have had my dt running like this when I got the ig wrong after a rebuild.

Thx for letting us know. Unlucky too as its not a common fail.

Malleus makes a good point. Buying your kit at the same time as the bike may get you a decent saving. Esp if it could be the decider on the deal as discounting heavily on 200quids worth of mid range leathers for a 1500 quid sale would be difficult for them to knock back.

What someone call? Solid bike the ybr. Simple advice really. Tyres and brakes should be the best you can afford and short other stuff if you have to. Unless you can see otherwise on any bend, junction or crest be prepared for the worst.

Fair point with these stupid licencing rules nowadays. Better spent tuning the easiest transferable part. You. Get good kit and some rider instruction. There are some excellent police observed rides for example, they really are the masters of riding smooth, safe and ultimately fast.

Pass your test and get a bigger bike would be the answer to that unless you have money to burn.

Cool, I had the DT50m, basically the same bike but without the pedals and mine was a long way from slow. Well for a 50 (possibly cough 60) cc

You asked for advice. Then reply with sarcasm, the "" says all I need and wont read your threads/posts again.

Yep, I was the same taking it all apart and THEN thinking. Oh, hang on where did that bit go. For my sins I did end up with a DT50 that could touch 70mph. Flat out superman pose for the 70mph, with so much tuning it barely ran under half throttle and had a powerband as wide as a knats fanny and contained 95% of the bikes power. Would have made my TDR feel like a gold wing had some thieving fucker not stole it.

Plug looks fine to me, certainly not rich. Removing the snorkel will increase the air speed through the venture in the carb (killing torque, increasing PEAK power) and disturb the static air reserve in the airbox. You have to remember every and I mean every component contributes a little bit to the performance and blindly fucking with a part of it will upset a dozen others and mess the balance costing power. Currently your bike engine is optimised to run economically and predictably, your aiming to change that and that will cost. My Suzuki as example, TTS removed parts of the intake snorkel and ended up leaving part of it in as it tuned the airbox into the sweet zone. After they had optimised it for performance it had loads of power, ran great at all revs........and used 40% more fuel on average, 20mpg was possible. I got lower than that at the TT. Just try using the needle jet for now, decide on a route you know close to your house, ride it a few times then do your changes and ride it again. Noting what you have done, snorkel out, jet needle lifted 1. Then on the next run lift it again, you should feel a difference. Good or bad is down to your opinion. Only if the needle cannot give the mixture you need will you need jets, then go again with different needle positions but start low and move up.

Struth. Giv3 a dog a bone. I can show you the plugs from my tdr to spoil that theory. In 77 oil was far removed from the oils of today and mixing it was giesswork so all 2strokes were run rich to stop the mixture going lean because of the oil. The engines were also lower in compression running poorer fuel which left a considerable amount of crap behind in the cylinder. Modern bike engines run much leaner and cleaner. The very pinacle of 2strokes are cleaner than 4strokes (thx for killing the 2stroke because you couldnt make a good one Honda) but thats another story. Because they are much cleaner the plug tips are a valid guide. Black and oily is obvious, but they can have a dry sooty appearance if rich and if running nice the residue will be minimal leaving just bare remnants of combustion which give a brown tan colour. I know so cos ive seen it.

1 post thread with no intro and barely any punctuation, could have gone with the "This is a forum of mates": speech but, nah not tonight. Need the Tom sandwich back.

2psi front and rear,

Why, its designed for off road work as it is, unless you remove the various components completely and with good water/vibe protection stripping it all off saves you nothing. One day you will be on the dirt in the dark and wish you had the lights. Losing the ig switch is the only plus for a pure dirt bike but no one will relay that info in a public forum.

Love the finish on the engine side covers, enjoy setting the engine up with those filters, been there and would swap out the airbox as a very, very last resort. But the turd in the pool for me, is that spedo. uggh. Move the key or go keyless and site it in the ig switch recess at a push but even then...

Of course its the rain, unless you looked like a red arrow trailing smoke? Every wet weather biker either swaps the plug caps with every other set of plugs or keeps em stewing in wd40 with regular sprays over the bike electrics to keep it sweet.