Cynic

Red deisel from a hire shop may be cheaper.

If its just for cbt training surely the cheapest tool you can find, chineese, Korean, hell it can come from Mars for all it matters. Few quid for something legal and then dump it when your done. Then spend the money you saved on your bike either for goodies or in the tank.

Assumption is the....... yadda yadda. Just because its new doesent mean its right. The choke draws fuel from the float chamber to richen the mixture. Bit of rubbish in there would mess you about. Not many other parts of a carb can drasticly affect the engine from lean to rich as much as the choke. We may be moving foreward. Before pulling it apart what effect does the choke have now.

Idle jet does little over 2000 rpm let alone 5. 1mm of float height wont do much either. Have you stripped the choke down to check it. Bet you didnt note the idle jet sizes either.

Considering how low stress a big twin is, chip fat would probably be ok. As long as its motorcycle chip fat your fine. In one of my dim(er) past mechanical decisions I used car oil acquired from the back of my dads garage in my old 350, as usual, because I was skint. The clutch was never properly reliable until I swapped out the whole pack, both cork and metal plates, but that was over 20years ago, gulp!

So explain how on my 100kg 250 then.

A 14yr old 125 will benefit little and you will be robbed at a main stealer. Its survived a lot of abuse already. As said servicing is not drastic. Get a haynes manual and have a read.

Right hand side of engine. Look below the carb where the inner and outer case joins. There will be a raised area roughly 3/4 inch by 2. The numbers will be stamped there. On the frame rhs of the headstock visible with the steering on full left lock. Been the same on every yam since moses wore booties.

Why do people asking questions like this NEVER post the engine/chassis numbers. Mask the last 3 digits if you feel the need for security.

Glad its not just me Tm, with these new generation lights its only going to get worse, you know there is no maximum illumination level for headlights. Some are so bright they hurt, especially the projector types that seem to flicker unless your exactly within the projected beam. Most dangerous part of driving I think, people are going to get killed by their own 'safe' headlights blinding oncoming traffic causing a head on.

How on earth do you guys get these kind of distances from tyres, I thought 4 and 6k (R/F) from my TDR was good.

There is one issue with extending the length of the slave lever. If the lever is twice as long then the force needed will be half as much which is great, down side is the actual cable needs to travel twice as far to do the same work, so if you pull the lever over 1 inch normally the same movement will need 2. This may not help if you have early carpel tunnel. Have you checked your not suffering from carpel tunnel because if you are your only buying time, I went down the same process 10 years ago with my old Suzuki (put the 12oo bandit hyd clutch on) and the pain still came back after a time. Its coming back now so may need another op but you should check it out.

No brainer for me, the Chinese stuff is often very unreliable quality wise, second hand oe will always be better. These engines will do 50000 miles if maintained so a good clean replacement barrel from a breakers will be fine.

Easy. On a 2016 bike. Its the dealers problem.

Officially? More chance of Elvis doing live gigs. But customs get away with murder come mot time so it very much depends on your relationship with your mot station.

Nice. I like trikes for the look and the fact its a lot harder to fall off. Not keen on the black wheels tbh. Kind of confusing with chrome and blacked out, but thats just me.

You have moved the lever position so that with your fingers straight resting on the lever at the second knuckle in the straight ahead position your wrist and fingers are forming a straight line. This will reduce wrist pain/tendon stress by a high margin, speaking as a carpel tunnel syndrome sufferer, now fixed but this made a huge difference to me.

It will be the tight links not moving smoothly, if you ran the oil below the pump pick up the cams would have picked up in hundreds of yards not miles, there are no cam bearings as such just a very specific tolerance that fills with oil in like 4 rpm, once run dry it would be rattling like a bag of spanners.

This forum has almost no real rules apart from a community sense of fair play that you are stretching a little. We don't use post counts, vet posts or members, just let your conscience and sense of 'treat as you wish to be treated", control the post content. The intro is just curtesy, same as a pack of cans when you go round your mates to watch the racing/footy/rugby etc. Your going to drink, eat and use far more than you take. Most of the time the same happens on here. people get their problem fixed and go away to live their life and enjoy their bike till they have more problems. Most of the people giving the advice have been round the block and are offering their time for nothing, and often they have been in that very situation and help just because the biking community helps people. Its a mind-set, in this day and age everything is instant. I'm already too old to give a f about instant, more do it once do it right. For what its worth I would be checking the chain and the sprockets. SR engines are so over engineered harm from low oil esp to the clutch is very unlikely the cams would fail first unless your actually saying you ran it dry.

Its not very scientific but have you changed the float height (so there is more fuel) to check the effect.

Ok. You said you have got the idle down once and it lasted 2 miles. First a really important question. Was the carb from china? If it was that is 99% of the problem cos their shite.,, first class grade A garbage. Otherwise. What did you do? Really think on it. Not just i rode it a bit. Did you change the float height? Any gaskets? Was the engine hot/cold? Air filter seated? Really csi style debreif yourself as it could/will be something tiny.

Did you squirt the wd over the crank seals?

Well...... If you have a mainstream model. They get a bit hazy with later changes after the manual is in print with abbridged appendixes added in.

No problem with trikes on here, one of the members is having trouble with his quad. There is even a thread running about a guitar. We are a general Yamaha forum, although there are members without yamaha's too. Hell if your into the bike vibe, can cope with taking and HAVING the piss taken, then no matter what you park your arse on or in your welcome. Were more 'group of mates in the pub talking bikes with a beer', exact detailed info we struggle with sometimes but otherwise pull up a chair.

That 300 came off fast. That is the first offer. The fact that he keeps on the scrap line means he has a buyer. He priced high for you to give it up as a loss. Can you walk away?