Cynic

That sounds like its been stood all winter then has some yuck in the carb that has been sucked into the jets blocking them, idle jet is favourite (its the smallest) and when it blocks the engine wont idle without choke ( choke adds the fuel so it runs). Carb strip is unavoidable. But should sort it. Can't say more drags are not my thing but there are plenty of drag fans (?) here. Nip across to the new owners section and say high, where you are and any experience/tales of beer, whenching,...! um, or just say hi. Means many more people reply. We get a lot of one post wonders.

Bet he forgot to turn it off at LEAST once,

Sorry Kev, but cant fault it. Apart from the timing chain its been tyres and service items for the entire time we have had it. That's all of the 150000 miles, she is showing her age but from a 'designed to do a job without the bullshit' it ticks all the boxes. When it goes I may even shed a tear.

Standard options count for everybody. High altitude, high temp. Needs leaner mixture. Lower altitude, lower temperature needs richer mixture. Don't forget that at those kinds of heights you will lose a hell of a lot of performance from little engines like those as they have little spare horsepower. Losing 20% or worse of the power from the 80 will be really obvious. Just from the fact there is less air to burn giving less power no matter what you do. Unless you want to start supercharging your engines..

Believe me its going, our Nissan lil old 1500 engine now approaching 150000 miles with little love from the wife's driving and 'approximate' servicing from me is now burning/losing oil. That doesn't have a big black patch on the drive under the engine (like the old range rover that REALLY knew how to leak oil), doesn't smoke except when its first started. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean its not burning oil, said oil fumes wont do your cat any favours though. Audi cat, ker fucking ching......... I'm not worried, my mot man works his magic and when the time comes that he says its just too far gone for him to sort, its scrap. Kind of liberating.

Long time ago I worked with an eco nut, drove the same vw polo he had owned since college. 1980 something it was registered. We all asked why he kept it on the road with its dirty engine etc. He said that 90% of a cars emissions come from building the damn thing, so he kept the old girl on the road not causing a new car to be built, to my knowledge he still has it now.

VW and Audi, seriously? Its the same firm.

Copperslip is great. Just remember your torque figures go up when you use it. Around 5 to 10%. Depends on the bolt size.

Good point. Locked.....

Yes you can fit the round swinger with one small caveat. You need the shock to go with it. The top mount is different between the 2. Good news is you can change the sw arm mount on the shock.

I agree its odd. When you say the vlaves were out. Which way? Tight or loose. Not uncommon for the valve adjustmens to seem all to whack after the first run. Its just things settling in, oil taking up clearances etc. The good news is the 'only at high rpm' part. Means its more likely not mechanical. Could just be pinking a little.

Guess it depends how they have been locked in, if its just cold fit, or pressed then fine. If there is weld locking them in place from below that may complicate the process.

Nope! The whining will keep changing in cause, frequency, volume and duration for years, 3 human females (for 3 weeks out of 4 anyway) in my house.

You were lucky, I have a friend with the ugliest scar on his leg from a chain failing, it can cause total disaster and I don't mean cracking an engine case. It can lock the wheel and throw you down the road, that could quite easily be fatal. Aside from injuries like Pauls. (not airhead). You MUST keep a check on your chain, I change mine early, long before it reaches the limits of the chain adjusters. If I can lift it more than half a tooth or there is a stiff link or 2 that take more than a passing squirt of pj1 I bin it. I have seen the consequences. I know of people that remove links when they run out of adjustment and wait till the sprockets are so worn the chain can jump teeth. Its not worth it, learn chain care now, (esp after your first hand scare, teaches more than any book/forum) on the puddle jumper and you will be set for the bigger bikes.

HI, WELCOME TO THE FORUM..

Started at higher revs, still sounds like a poor spark to me. May not be but start easy and checking the spark is engine diagnosis 101. Basic steps, go to a halfrauds and buy a Haynes manual. Not sarcasm, nor taking the piss, its the first thing I do with every vehicle I have and it will save whatever it costs plus interest the very first time you work on the bike. Even if it just lets you know where the odd bolt is that you would not find and cause you to break stuff. Yes there are better manuals than Haynes but it is millions of percent better than nowt and the more comprehensive workshop manuals like the one for my TDR assume workshop knowledge which I'm assuming you don't have. It will also give part specs for your oil, plugs etc, and quantities and some even give fixes for common problems on a long running mark. Short quick checks, the plug caps swapping the leads across cylinders may or may not work, depends if your bike uses 1 or 2 coils. Don't know personally. You need to check for a spark on the rear cyl, easily done by putting the plug (use the one from the cyl not a substitute and DONT clean it either just as it comes) against the engine firmly on an unlaquerd part of the bike. Again be carefull, and crank the engine. All the better if it starts and see what spark you get. All you need to do that is a plug spanner and a rag, the spanner will be in the bike tools if your bike has some.

That engine will run without an exhaust, not efficiently and loud but running all the same, yet another mechanic talking bollocks. Have you swapped the plugs across the cyl. The rear cyl gets pretty warm and that can shorten the life of the plug, cap and lead. Have you checked the cap has a good connection. Or take the plug cap off and just offer the end of the lead to the tip of the good cyl (reccomend gloves and insulated pliers as it can give you a good zaping,your talking 50000v). Should get a nice blue spark.

Sorry but all that breaking in nonsense doesent wash with me. 30 or 40 miles to make sure nothing will fall off then use as normal. And yes thats exactly what i did with my TDR after a £500 rebuild. After less than 100 miles it was off for a 700mile camping weekend. Your hardly backing it in to Beckets bouncing the limiter.It just burns up warranty time. As to the honing. Did you yourself not say you could still see the old honing marks. Light scrub and be done with it. Last time i did it i used some 1200 wet and dry . Just like keying some gloss on a door. Then put it together and use it.

You can't get a 70 kit for the MX, that's only the water pumpers. Google '4 corner seizure' as yours looks a likely candidate but we cannot see the rest of the piston, has it marked the barrel? As long as the pump is set properly and your using good oil then standard setting for the oil pump will be fine, I had a DT50m back in the stone age good for 70mph, (lot of work, lot of money, bastard to keep in the power and, thinking back prob looked a twat with the full superman going on for terminal speed runs). The point? used the standard yam pump with fully synth 2stroke oil on stock settings. Most of the oil is lubricating the bearings, so tweaking the pump does little to the actual oil doing any good just makes smoke. Oil in the fuel knackers the mixture as you have to increase all the carb jets to allow for the oil in the fuel. Also, and its a marmite point on here, keep the pump.

Sarky, proper section......

Moved to proper forum.

Nope, TDR250. Lets just say I was 500rpm from the redline in top on the back lane......

Nah, engine is only 1000miles in from a rebuild so she loved it, there are easier ways of keeping the fuel level down in the carb though. Anything with the pv shut was a no no so I just let her sing. Sounded epic. Just wish I had some JL's for the full effect.

That's not really anything to worry over, you should get the measuring kit out to make sure its still round and thee are no wear ridges. You can see hone hatching on cylinders that are out of spec on ovality because they wear front and rear. Look at the top of the cyl, you can see the combustion area and where the rings have paused at the top of their stroke, there will be another point like that at the bottom of the bore too. The vertical marks are nothing, measure up then you know for sure.

As I'm sure were all in the process of waking our bikes up from their winter snooze, excepting the hero's that ride all year. (been there fk that). Cleaned the bike, new chain, new oil run her up to operating temp, all good. Then decided on a run out to fill her up with some good fuel. Had an ok trip, did around 8 or 10 miles and the bike felt good. So, open her up for a bit of a blast on some local roundabouts where she goes unhappy. Carb had flooded shutting down one cyl 10 miles from home. I'm considering calling the man with a van when inspiration strikes, 99% of the way home is country road, soooooo, while the engine was still hot I pushed it back to outside the 30 stretch (covered by a camera), then rode home with it wound on hard. Was a blast to be honest, bit nervous of fuel on the rear tyre but otherwise keeping the throttle open to use the fuel up fast enough took some concentration but it was certainly a fast trip home. She is out on the drive at the minute cooling down and letting the vapours blow off.