Cynic

Foo me, just ordered up the seals and such for the rear suspension, 70quid, only a handfull of seals and a few bearings. Considering you can get cranks and such for less. Anyho, frame and sw arm are degreased and painted rattlecan style (not made of money, stripped and p coated would be nice but cash needed elsewhere), just starting to put some bits back on. Bush came out of the sw arm with a little help from a home made puller. Once out and the gunk cleaned off and regreased its gone back in fine, even the 'o' ring seals in the ends were fine after a clean. The front needs little bar some paint and a clean apart from the front brake, the rear end now the suspension is all squared away should be a formality excepting the brake. The stand is being a bit illusive, its a funky mx style centre stand. Mine is bent from all the lazy twats sitting on the bike on the stand, you think i can find one. May go with a pattern side stand kit. And of course there is the engine, that is what i want the time for. Photo's will follow.

Copper slip is not what it was, I think it has suffered from being kind to polar bears the same as paints and such. The stuff you get now is not like what I remember from years back servicing cars with my dad.

Fuse for the spedo light, not heard that one before. Will be a bad earth or a broken wire, get in there with a volt meter, turn the lights on and follow the connections back, (prob only as far as the headlight) until you find some juice. Then look for any obvious breaks or damage to the wires from the good connection to the spedo.

What voltage were they.

if their 12v whats it matter if their 5 w or 1.7, there hardly going to get hot.

Have you checked to see if the thread is still there, its not leaking oil which is good. May be no oil galleries and such in there so, if there are still threads whack a bolt in and ride. Even if it needs a helicoil its not a disaster, as i said the bonus is no oil leaking.

2A7 then that diagram is the one, be careful though. These diagrams are not cast in stone and colours and connections can vary, not to mention some of the smaller links and such are not shown either. When i remade my loom i found this. There are several connectors buried within the harness, also the companies that made the looms have used some licence as to using wire that isn't long enough and joining 2 pieces together again within the loom. That red wire for the cdi being a good example, earlier bikes its no surprise to find it a separate wire outside of the main harness. Mine was. Waste not want not, their efficient but not German.

Don't forget with this small world we now live in you could post the pot here, or to say pjme and then get it shipped back. I'm sure folk on here, me included would not mind helping out with the language if needed .

Well done on the English, lot of English kids would not have been able to write that out in English. I'm talking about 17yr olds too. Bike looks pretty good as is, here in the uk they get a lot worse than that. You have a few mechanicals to fix and then the cosmetics that can cost a fortune, way more than you will ever get back. Also as far as it goes, unless they are set up to perfection and you are used to them big singles are generally a pain in the arse to start. Unless you really love it, get it running really really good, and do the cosmetics as and when.

Ok, when you say the numbers match. What does the engine and frame numbers start with, i think its going to be 2A6 but could be others.

Im not at home but off the top of my head its 3j100 i think. A vm26 of some variation will be ok. Tbh you would do better rebuilding that mikuni than living with the pattern carb. Their cheap for a reason. I am having to look past all the 25quid specials for my daughters bike. Looks like it will be costing me to follow my own advice.

The 125 had points. Could be the bottom end was changed sometime. No biggy if it was aside from the ig you only have 1 clutch plate less and a very slightly shallower clutch basket. Some feel points would be better for extreem offroad work. Only the mag to drain after deep water. Drowned cdi would be a bitch. Never stopped mine though.

What add blocker. Would be useful to get back to it for the photo's i have there.

Prefer flikr myself. Used to use photobucket and annoyingly have quite a few pictures on there of the kids but its so slow and full of ads i dont use it anymore. You can have pictures up and ready to share on flikr before photobucket loads.

What about these guys, granted there not hose kits but with the various elements they sell you can replace all the hose elements on the fazers pipework. Quite a few have metal parts to them on the fazer if my grey matter is working. http://www.jsperformance.co.uk/silicone-hoses/elbow-silicone-hoses/45-degree-elbow-silicone-hoses Could you swap the metal parts across (assuming condition) and remake the hoses to suit?

1100ml or just a knats under 2pints. (Pint is 568ml) Just a different way of writing volume.

Hope it gets ridden. I hate bikes that are just ornaments. I dont expect it commuting in january but it needs to be used. Mine is more original though.

May not be an obvious question. Have you checked to see if the new exhaust has that connection. Or that there isnt some instruction saying blank off pipe x with blue tac or such? (Sarcasm. Dont use blutac).

Found the seals, not listed for the rx anymore but Aprilia are as lazy as Yamaha and the same seals are in the RS125 suspension linkage.

Would you believe the rear suspension has greased bushes instead of bearings for the relay to chassis link. Still baffles me, some bits are impossible to find like the seals for the relay bearings. Difficult to see a way to keep out the crud other than very regular service. Its not a hard part to remove, quite easy with the bike on an MX stand.

Erm. Face. Knees, hands and lord knows what else. Even with gloves. I got nowhere near as shitty. She did burn her hand on the heated bearing that came out. Lesson learned although she was amazed at the process. And were now well past lefty loosey, righty tighty. Now the cleaning starts. Have some bearings to order and have found a replacement tank so i can stop wondering how to fix hers. Even the right colour and graphics for 25quid. Just a steep learning curve for the cbt learning the clutch control.

The relay bearings are out, 2 were so knackered it was only the outer races so I cut them with a hacksaw and went with brute force and a chisel to finish. Middle one which was seized solid had more substance so, set up a couple of sockets in the vice. Got it nice and tight by hand and then (with the relay being ally and the bearings steel) I gave it some pain with my heat gun. Couple of minutes and clunk, pressure came off the vice. Tightened it back up and kept up the heat. Rinse and repeat for a couple of minutes and it was out clean as a whistle. Vice survived too. Forks are so so, found some nasty at the bottom of the stanchions, probably never get there unless your jumping like one of those red bull nutters so may krust em and see how we go. The dirt line on the forks was several inches above the crusty and the fork seals are sound. Prob put these on the backburner as a todo item. Plus point, the steering head has a nicely greased set of taper bearings which was a nice find. Bike is down to a bare frame now too.

I have started to use flikr, its free but as far as possible use bogus info, it wants you to share your soul with the world. Different name and use a new email address, it will suggest one as you sign up. Then set everything to private or friends and family. Then you just upload to it, click share and post the link on the forum. You can even limit the time the links are active for. I'm rebuilding my daughters bike and posting is easy, takes moments.

I thought Vincent were still trading when you were 18 john,

Damn, that is fate and irony flipping you the bird in a big way there mate. Feel for you.