Cynic

Remember the things called sidewinders, pretty much a wheel on a frame that fitted to the bike with a pivot. Enough to get you round the law, thought it was more than 350 though and it was still happening up to the mid eighties.

So fitting the stock wheels for the mot will do it then lol. Have seen a few proper legal gps speedo's that would do so its good. One thing I have discovered researching these wheels, the 4t 125's are seriously naff compared to their old 2t cousins. Brakes are non floating disks, wheels have lost weight and strength, wheel bearings are smaller as are a lot of the other mechanical items, wheel bearing size15x32x9's instead of 20x47x14, now that's a drop looking at the load ratings, the cush drive, front spindles down from 20mm to 15, smaller in some I have seen 12mm for the derbi. Frames are thinner, swing arms are cosmetic lookalikes. These 4t bikes are a LOT weaker performance wise. The unrestricted 2t could hit 30hp/100mph and were designed to do it. The 4t 'things' are learner legal 14hp/65mph nancies designed for little more. Disturbing for those sticking in big bore stuff. The chassis has little spare. Hardly a race rep, more race rip off considering the prices. A sorted RS50 is a better bike. Before you ask, my wheels are from a 2t.

Tempting, are they actually legal, don't you need actual miles done recorded somewhere? Anyway, couldn't resist, yanked out the front wheel and chucked the Aprilia one in. Yum fking yum. Get this, the disk is a straight swap. Same pcd and bolt pattern. Who would have thought, got half as many bobbing though. It is designed to stop a 100mph bike that weighs broadly speaking the same as the tdr so it must be up to the job. What 20+ years do for metallurgy and element analysis. I did take some picks but in a true teaser will put them up later, spacers are a little different as this wheel doesn't have the spedo drive and that squeaks the numbers a little. Pah, if it was easy they would all have em. Happy bunny, been told to come in from the garage now though,

Just picked the wheels up, bar some brake dust there mint, better still the disks are too. Minor flaw, the 2009 bikes use a spedo pickup in the rear swing arm so need some grey matter there, (will be easier to actually fit the wheels though), but otherwise I'm chuffed. Made a day of it going to Bournemouth then having something to eat at a pub in the new forest.

Oh yes, finally some proper bargain mojo comes my way. 2 wheels, unmolested silver with good disks for............60 quid, proper bargain, well happy. Chancers want more than double that for one wheel in worse condition. Have some more parts to source, spedo drive, wheel spacers (needed as well as the machined ones) rear sprocket carrier and finally the caliper and caliper mount. I'm not sure on that last one. Will meed to mock up and see what needs to be done as both caliper brackets are completely different. One locates on a cast lug in the massively solid and over engineered race developed sw arm from the 2000's. The other bolts to the top of some old 80's box section ally. Not withstanding the Aprilia caliper fits on the left, the yam on the right. Anyway, down the rabbit hole with my tdr as well as her RX and, if I'm honest. Its fkin ace, I can spanner one till frustrated then spanner the other, have done my best projects that way as your always focused. With wifey permission too. Apparently in the garage with oily bits is better than the pub, hmmm, not sure which is cheaper. Looks like the firm that rebored my tdr barrels can make the spacers/bushes. Waiting for a call back on costs. Fun fun fun

Not on yam 2strokes. The stator powers the cdi and coil. A tdr will happily run without a battery at all. Powervalve can get cranky but zero connection from battery to spark. If the stator winding for the ig fries you will have no spark. There are separate coils for charging. Dont know how the later bike's ig kill sw opperates to comment but as far as i know the stators are the same. I'll have a look.

Hope its that simple, I have resisted messing with the TDR but the wheels have forced my hand (not very forcefully atm if I'm really honest but its good to tell the wife) here and the bike is nowhere near perfect so I figure I can have a few tweaks. My problem being that the old three spokes I think look naff. Just my view of course. Also using these bushings I can stash my stock stuff so it can be put back in the future. Although the rear wheel alone may well pay for half of it. Hmmm? These wheels would look good with a splash of gold paint and give the holy grail of tyre sizes for 250's at 110/150 on 17's, well ok that's the biggest that will fit but its on nice and easy with a 4" rim.

Would be useful to say hi in the new members area, you don't actually say which of your bikes your having the issue with either. I'm going to take a stab at the fjr. I'm not much good on the modern stuff ( meaning anything this century) but I doubt the brake lights are ecu controlled. You have checked the bulb, fuses etc.......

True but the saying, 'double the planned time and double the expected cost' are bang on, if not conservative. Once your down the rabbit hole you just got to keep going.

Ok, mk 2 post. After having to use the bike early last year due to car issues my front wheel is suffering from white death, add that to a worn front tyre and well, you know....So I'm ooking at replacing the wheels in the tdr, the wheels I fancy (Aprilia Yspokes/6spoke) have bigger bearings and I have got hold of the dimensions from tdr.co.uk for the Cagiva mito which is pretty much the same axle kit, certainly use the same bearings. Won't know for rock steady certain till I actually have the wheels if these dimensions are right for the RS and if anybody has an idea to what kind of costs would the spacers/bushes be. Would be nice to have an idea before getting the wheels. Or could anybody here knock them up, happy to pay. These are the drawings, http://www.tdr250.co.uk/downloads/Mito_Wheels_In_TDR.pdf Any recommendations for engineers to do them. There are a couple I can try here in town but work gets in the way all the time. Oh, have wife's blessing too.

You know some people are easy to dislike...........green eyed monster speaking. Lovely work, and yes we love the pictures.

Cant speak for the xvs but my dad has a 750 Suzuki intruder that I have ridden with the wife and tbh even at 750cc go was no problem, stop was more of a concern. My 250 has far more stopping power. I would think either bike would be good. May find vibration becomes more obvious on the bigger machine possibly. Good luck.

Careful there, my daughter wanted a bike and having 3 myself she had me and her mother over a barrel. The thought is both exciting and terrifying.

Running in procedure..... 1. Start engine. 2. Ride steady for a bit, couple of miles and stop. Using all gears. 3. Anything leaking or fell off? No.? Then use it. Ride as normal. All i have ever done in 31years of riding. Wonder how many engines die when somebody drones through 4 or500 miles then hit the magic number and nails the bastard?

Personally. If your spending that kind of brass on a bbk then i would pull the motor. Split it and replace all the seals and bearings, proper ones too You have no idea of the condition of your current parts so for reliability and performance change them. The crank and bearings are plenty strong if healthy. Its your gearbox that will limit you. If you change out the bearings, yes even the little needle roller ones that do the hard work. Checking the gearbox cogs and the dogs. Not a big job on a good motor but you want to double the horsepower. The engine will do it but will be far better with the extra work.

Didn't you missus tell you to use your own compact when you tried that slice......

Don't mention electrics, there is no definitive diagram for it. There are 3 possible as well as some rs50 models there all close(ish) but wrong. So its electrical/bike experience and straight up wire tracing to make sense of the loom, which is missing stuff too. It seems to be heavily based on the MX version which is mainly motocross/enduro based. Meaning minimal switchgear, minimum everything except wire, every component has its own earth wire. Of which some genius decided to use blue and dark blue, one is live the other earth, that causes all kinds of fun. It is running, yay. Cant turn it off with the ig sw though which is odd. But hey with everything else, I don't care it runs, quite nicely too save a couple of water leaks. Easy fixed.

Yeah, it will be good, just needed a sound off. Just at that low point that's in every build. The light at the end of the tunnel is not quite in sight yet. Soon I think. Was hoping to be done by now and fiddling with the CB175. One thing for sure, the quick once over on the CB will be a formality next to this.

OMG, this damn bike is working me all the way, every item has been buggerd at some point by either 'it'll do' or the wanna go faster idiots. Screws and fasters fuckt through no more than bad tools, or just not bothering to get the thread square before tightening stuff. The exhaust was fitted badly, the reason, so it would clear the oil pump fittings, the catch? The pipe is designed for a bike that's had the pump removed (its max output is a bit wimpy for big bore kits and tuning so commonly removed). Also the small stuff, the frame is powder blue, I have given up on greasy finger prints. I fitted the carb, the choke arm fouls, because it was bent to clear the exhaust, now fitted as it should the choke leave fouls again but because it wasn't bent hot last time its snapped. That list is not even a tiny part. Rant over...... Thanks. Should have it running today though..........maybe....

Fuel that old is bad news, if its gone yellow then its at least 12months old and only fit for cleaning parts. More importantly, the fuel in the float chamber will have evaporated, even more so with your climate. This forms a white crystalline type crust over everything, quite stubbon to remove but it will be throughout the carb. It doesn't dissolve back into fresh fuel either, the only way to clean it is get in there and do it, there is no magic sauce, there are stabilisers you can use BEFORE standing the bike for a long time. Draining it out is better, its one of the reasons why the carb has a drain screw. You really do have no option but to remove the carb and any filters and clean them properly. There will be bits floating around in the carb randomly closing off or reducing jet sizes and passages in the carb,

As in 99% of these type of issues the quote. "Not lose, i think". Check it properly.

More likely 200vA to 430vA.

Don't know but its taxed till the 25th of may. So its still out there.

Sounds like the switch or the wiring to it.

What do you mean by top of the head?