Cynic

We all know what the site owner thinks of freeloaders sponging an add.

Sounds like your statement on 'having fuel' is a bit of a misnomer. Sounds like one or more jets blocked in the carb. Float height would have it running on just choke. Unless of course there is more than 1 issue. You need to get in there and clean them properly. I find a couple of strands of fine copper wire twisted together quite good for cleaning out jets, stiff enough to shift a blockage but wont hurt the ally or brass in the carb.

Hmm, lets all guess how that's going to pan out....

Normally causes clutch slip tbh. Did you check them for blueing?

Daft really but my daughter is now a strapping nigh on16year old national level hockey player rather than the tentative 13yr old on her first trip, end of last year I replaced the chain on the tdr. Before squires, so basically a new rear tyre and a c+s set . Well with daughter now a very proficient pillion my c+s is about fkt in under a year, around 2k miles and the rear tyre is burning up fast. My poor little tdr is doing more work that it was ever designed to. We go out and I don't really have to worry about her on the back and, well, give it some. Good job the new wheels are going on soon so changing sprockets and chain, may go up a chain size but god knows how long that 150 rear will last 2 up, ummm? I may be lucky to get 1000 miles. Talk about be careful what you wish for.

So why did you change out the clutch?

Welcome aboard, certainly win introduction of the year.

Did you check the basket for ridges, did you smooth them off, did you take the sharp edges off of the friction plates when you got them before soaking them in oil for a few hours.

Fill out the page properly and ask more than a lazy question, google will give you many options.

You got to prioritise all your junk. All of that will end up weighed in for scrap in the end. If you had spent the time and money from a quarter of the other junk you would have a mint turbo and room for more.

As i understand it, he is getting the opposite. Charging the battery up means everything works till the battery goes dead and the bikes electrics stop working save for the engine.

Wow, had to ask, born cynic and all. I have read more than once that these things are just hype (getit). Going up 30 points on the jetting is HUGE. My gsx went up by those levels when TTS upped the horsepower, in the end by 40% from 62 to 104hp RWHP (dyno'd) consuming quite a lot of money at the time too. You are really going to feel that at the pumps. My gsx went from doing 180-200 miles per tank new, when she was fully worked on you could, if you really caned it get 65, yes 65 miles to a tank. That's 4 gallons, gone! 600cc doing 16mpg. Actually got it down to just over 50miles on mad Sunday at the 2000TT. Riding gently i could get 120 ish. Or 30mpg, hardly economical. Properly planned and executed tuning is a beautiful thing. Its worth every penny, to feel the bike as is was designed to be rather than the average everyman version it started as. Its now YOUR bike more than ever.

Beind devils advocate here but how much performace came from fixing the carb rubbers. 10 to 11 jet sizes with no other work sounds like the exhausts were jetted bad too. Hypercharger is before the carb so should not affect the jetting too much. Sounds like a right result. Cannot beat the feeling when your bike feels fit and strong.

Basil, wasn't he a pioneer of Manuel handling too?

And? The problem is now, you have to check now, a chain can change pitch and start a vibration in a day. I had to adjust mine when i got home from work yesterday because it got wet on the way home. That was from 15 miles. Left work and it was fine, by the time i got home my toes had gone numb. Just barely a quarter turn on the adjusters and a drop extra of lube and smoooooooooth again. It may not be your chain but you have to check stuff, just seeing it in the window,

You wont have the kit to test the rectifier that uses some electrical mumbo jumbo to work. Test across 4 and 5 with the mag disconnected. And according to the book you should expect............ 0, yep that's a big fat fk all, confuses me too (that's Haynes for you) but running it should develop ~35v at 6000 rpm so I would think its a very low resistance with some quite high tolerance explaining why they go. Now if you have continuity between T10 at the dash and the orange wires at the ig switch and the fuses as well as the green wire between t4 (gen) and t8 (rectifier) then as she runs the easiest check is to get into the wire at t5 (gen) and see what the output ( ~35v @6000 rpm) is when running. Putting a pin through the wire is useful for this as once done and the pin removed the wire is hardly affected. You should know which is the problem then, its not uncommon for one to take out the other though.

Whats wrong with yours

Got a couple kicking around in my garage, they don't generally pack up. Depends which bit is actually missing teeth. Postage to Thailand will be a bit much though. As far as links go, this is for a uk parts supplier called Fowlers. I think they do international post. This is for a 91 but it looks the spit of my 1980. Hope it helps. Fowlers are good people too, happy to talk through any parts. Considering the service the prices are good too. Not yambits cheap (and nasty) but considering most parts are genuine Yamaha or OE eq I have never felt cheated

Aye man, mint!

Assumption is a dangerous game. The ig switch is actually 2 sometimes 3 and can be more. Switches in one. One part earths the ig when you sw off. The other disconnects the +12. Follow the wires from Terminal 8 on the rectifier and from Terminal 5 on the generator and it should make sense. That is the wiring in question.

Shame really. That bike will die the breakers death. Why do people think bikes are worth money JUST because they are old. With a bad engine its a couple of hundred quid. Its hardly got the cudos of a 350.

Aircooled rd club for the info and contacts and deep pockets I'm afraid.

Shame, was it not cheap enough to fix. Not much at 37 years old will be proper tidy without a corresponding tag unless he wanted top dollar.

Much as you may want IT parts to fit few will. The clutch will like as not just be stuck. The clutch only opperates the very outer plate. If there is little use the rest can stick together. Put the bike in gear and rock back and forth with the lever pulled. They normally free up. If they have stuck they will easily re stick till its had some use. Good luck with the plastics. There out there. You just got to get lucky.

Seeing as how everything works except the actual switch do you not have your answer. And no I have no idea how to test it. Sorry.