Cynic

Phil +1 for the above. As for contributing. You already are. Search engines will catch you post for chain and sprockets and folk will read it. They may or may not be yoc members but it helps other motorcyclists who are wary of using forums. That has to be a good thing.

I have just put michelins on my TDR now i finally have wheels that will take modern tyres. The pilot road is a really good allseason tyre. Good looking tread pattern too. I put pilot 2ct's on which are more sports oriented as my TDR is a summer toy and are a bit squiffy till they warm up (quickly) so cold weather heavy rain might upset them. Pesonal opinion but i cant fault em. Last well too.

You might wish you had read the sprocket change before removing the wheel if the sprocket is held by a bf nut. You could just have a tube fitted if cost is a concern on something like a ybr. The chain on a ybr should have a split link unless its the oem original. Or been serviced by a main stea..... sorry, dealer. So the cain should be an easy split without anything more than a pair of pliers.

Looked at them myself. Gives a tdr250 around 7hp and makes it feel much faster as she comes on the pipe with a bang.

Not sure why your asking. The lowest power mode will be no different to full power cruising. It wont change the mixture. Just how aggresive the fueling is. Part throttle cruise is part throttle cruise.

Sorry but that is all complete bollocks. Yes it may apply to a hi tune, bored and stroked bonkers racer. For a dt175 designed to run in the worst of conditions it is a total waste of effort and cash. I have stood mine on the back wheel to drain out the water before cleaning the plug and riding on along the trail after misjudging a watercrossing. Yes i got as wet as the bike. Lube the rings with 2stroke oil when you put it together. Ride 10miles or so to make sure nothing falls off. Check her over. Ride normally. Simple. Only things that worth time. Check the ports have been chamferd after the bore as that wears rings badly also. Make sure the head and barrel faces are true and the head studs are sound. Not uncommon for the studs to come lose. That can affect the head.

Your giving up 150bhp for 60hp bike you dont like on several levels. The raked out front end should make it feel like it doesent want to turn. Not flop. Walk away and look for something that suits you better There are no shortage of drags.

And I can't stand Marmite, oddly like twiglets though, go figure?

Gotcha......

Nope its mph. Here you go tommy, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Speedometer-Odometer-Background-Motorcycle-Marine/dp/B06XV4YVD2/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EHT3FCYV8ZF5R501XHW2

Well had a result on the Speedo front. After scaring myself with some of the aftermarket stuff and nearly passing out with the money they want for pushbike stuff these days, seriously who pays 500quid for a bike spedo. Sorry fully integrated cycle computer. Anyway found one Amazon in the boating atv section, right size, has an analogue face. 60 quid. Be interesting to see how well it works, should be spot on accurate down to 5mph, if does work fine it makes you wonder why makers bother with it driven from the wheel.

The amount of help is normally relative to the amount of information you give. Would not be expecting much from that. I can guess but faults don't get fixed with guesses.

Cor, dolly sprint, went to college with a lad who had one of those, with the stag engine in it. Much fun.... Bring the FJR then, Make a matching pair with Slice...

Heh, Grantham eh, so will we see you at Squires. Be a sweet run for the 400/4.

Result, meet up in matlock?

Just get on the m1, bang on south for a bit, when you hit the big arsed roundabout and go left and on for a bit till you hit the next roundabout, then go left again. Push on till you see jct 42 (I think) off the A1m and your all but there. Honest..........

I took my dt once to a tester, after quite a few years of no indicators, ( was mainly for greenlining and I must have trashed 5 or 6 sets) so I didn't bother. Just think what that would cost today, gen yam indicators for a dt175...... I got a jobsworth failed it as it had the mounts, went home, cut them off and went back. He did say it wasn't really the idea but, agreed he had pointed out the now absent brackets and couldn't argue and passed it. As I write this the dt still doesn't have indicators and I doubt will ever.

Yep, dt's don't tune easy, the successful ones normally need a scratch built exhaust and sensitive tuning by someone who has done it before. Just opening up the ports will as so eloquently put "make it run like shit". Esp the exhaust leave that port alone. For what its worth, around 50mpg is doable and as for top speed, if you run it to the red line you may touch 60mph, makes a 0-60 time irrelevant. As far as it matters go is not what the dt was for, riding gentle through dirt lanes and fields its difficult to beat for strength and low speed manners. You want speed, buy an RD/TZR

flikr is the one I plumped for. Just make sure to use a load of, at least vague if not flat out misdirecting details as it tries to share everything. I'm with you on the pbucket, it doesn't work well enough to pay for, the amount of adds and pop ups is unbearable. Its blatantly done to make you want to upgrade but its too much and just pisses you off, then you switch off.

It needs to be in the fuel to suck it up. Normally you would go with a float height not a fluid level, although some are measured using the drain on the float bowl and clear tube to see where the fuel actually is, and obviously it cannot go higher than the floats can go as a maximum.

Firstly the gasket should not leak. When your riding the fuel will swill around in there and the seal should be sound. Ball park float height. Should see the main jet submersed in fuel by about the depth of the jet (ish). Some carbs like the mikuni's on early dt's are quite sensitive to it so go with caution.

You can slight many things on the gold wing. But not the motor. As far as smooth quiet and reliable goes there is not much better. Im thinking something more like a Hardly Worth It . Done properly.

Yuk, but it probably weighs more than all of my bikes put together, same with the cc too so my view is pretty much mute.

Locked

You will be lucky to find bodywork in useable condition at all. Anything in excellent/genuinely mint condition will cost a literal fortune. You have bodywork, that is 90% of your troubles sorted, now you just need to repair and paint it.