Cynic

Wifey comes in after going out with the girls, snuggles up to her husband, hello dear she say's drunkenly i'm going to make you the happiest man in the world........... He replies....... "Don't be daft woman who is gonna help you move out at this time of night............."

Sigh dribble dribble......... If only i had a bigger garage. Whats with the front muddie on the gorgeous white one??

I have been driving trucks for the best part of ten years now, everything you say is true, i recon i prevent an accident a day, you can watch things happening and you can prevent them much as you have. You will also see all the mobile phones etc and become very aware that most car drivers think their cars stop at the side of their seat when they cut the corner you need. Or pull across. Some of the ol clunkers they teach in have got a bit of wear in em so changing slow is no bad thing. I found the gearchange ex the biggest pain in the arse getting first on the slow down,not sure if you still have to use every gear but getting that old DAF into crawler when she was moving was a bast4rd. Don't forget you can bring a manover into the driving yourself. On my test we stopped at a give way that was a reasonable slope and tried my luck taking it as the hill start. Worked to, saved me having to do it as a separate part. Anyway best of luck

A place that has been very helpful to me lately is TYtrials their business is restoring DT's and TY's.

Probably next to a pile of rocking horse siht, only kidding but they are increacingly rare, any of the auction sites really. Would need the engine no to be exact with which carb you have and that will be the trouble with any that turn up you cannot be certain that its the right one. Going on your previous thread are you sure another carb will cure your ills, it would be far easier to fix the one you have i would have thought, it may even be something else like electrics or crank seals. As far as it goes carbs very rarely actually wear out. The stuff in them does like jets and needles etc and that can be fixed. Oh and Ray, note to self, add the A on the end of your bike name.

Sorry mate but as far as i'm concern'd a dodgy chain and sprocket set can be potentially lethal. Damaging your bike hurting you or worse, if it jumped or broke and locked the rear at speed. I have experienced an iffy chain snapping and i will never skimp on a chain again. Sorry i buy chain and sprocket sets or at least known components if i'm changing the gearing, fit them as one and chuck em as one. So if you are asking me bin it, and buy a proper set.

OGOAB told me about em and you lot prob know about these guys already but: WWW.TYTRIALS.CO.UK Sorry don't know how to do the clicky bit but the people on the end of the phone at TYTrials are old school bike nuts they know DT's and TY's backwards and are quite happy to yap on about your bike and what you need. Brilliant like a breath of fresh air. All genuine parts too.

Have you tried putting the other rec back on. I recon its an electrical issue with something getting hot or a bad earth/joint somewhere. Or a cdi pick up failing. I had similar on my DT and that was one of the cdi wires had touched on the hot exhaust just enough for a very slight connection, exhaust cold engine runs, hotter it got the worse it ran till it cut out. Kicked myself when i found it.

Is the photographer being artistic? or hiding the fact its missing the LH pipe? Either way looks a treat, but i'm with drewpy on the wheels.

Tell your friend to take a long run off a short pier, you wont notice the loss of performance from some worn rings, take her out and give her (posh army voice) a damn good thrashing, like 10-15 mile blast on a motorway or such to really clear out the pipes. Take a look at my topic "Dt175 engine rebuild" and you will see just how knackerd the pistons can get and still run ok. Honestly with decent oil and run properly you can expect 20thou before any real work. Save for decoke's. And if you give it a proper blast from time to time you can avoid them too.

First and most obvious question, why?

Having used a bike running pre-mix i would go for sorting it properly, with the autolube you have the right mix all the time and you don't have to carry a bottle of the stuff everywhere you go. Its a pain in the arse to measure so you can't part fill and worst of all if the bike stands for any length they separate out. No, premix is for crossers and race bikes that you fill from a jerry can in a field. On the road its inconvenient at best. Fix it right fix it once. Ive heard it often enough growing up i'm now old enough to admit its good advice.

Ok bit further on, the top end is fubar unfortunately or unsurprisingly. This is the nasty bit on the barrel, some teenage bodging i'm not very proud of but is not all that uncommon for any old trailee, steel studs in an ally barrel they sieze and they snap. Leading to this ahem. As its on 1.25 as is and a knackerd 1.25 at that i really don't think it is worth the expence of sorting it properly. The head gasket has also failed as you can see from the pictures it was blowing at the exhaust and leaking at the head so its not surprising the piston has melted at its crown, it is also out of spec in all ways with scoring on the front and a scar from a heat sieze couple of years back. on the plus side the clutch has stripped down fine, all the plain plates are flat and the friction plates are all well in spec, the drum its self is also in great condition, in fact the only bit of wear i can see is the polishing on the clutch output shaft but thats to be expected as its a bearing surface for the basket. Thats about it for now well till i get the cases split. If you want to know or see about something specific or you have any pearls of wisdom/experience pile in. I'm not doing this as a manual, just showing that its no black art.

I'm inclined to do them, they seem OK but i have flooded the crankcases with water myself twice, so i think i would be a bit of a prat if i didn't take the oppotunity. The crank appears to be absoloutly fine i will check when its out. I have been trying ot get a photo that shows it but one of the crank seals ( LHS) was put in on the piss by whoever had it apart last. Surprised its lasted this long.

Hi mate, if you have nothing fancy on there its a good start, second the lamps are lighting, even if it is fast means that the likely hood of the fault being within the loom is unlikely. The fact that one side works fine means that the actual relay and associated guff is fine. I would be looking at the bulbs, i cannot count the amout of times i've heard "but the bulbs looked fine" after a lighting fault is found to be the bulb. Swap the bulbs from side to side that will cost nothing but time and see what happens, i would not be surprised if the problem swaps over. Failing that then i would be looking inside the lampholders at the connections.

Hi all, my DT engine is a bit sick. She has finally called time and demanded some serious attention. She had an overhaul of the running gear about 10 years ago but the motor was ok and as one of the ain't broke brigade, i left well alone.... Point is i've established that the crank seals have gone so am pulling the motor down, i've started from the off taking pictures so i am going to try and do it as a long thread and try and scare away some of the fantasies over whats inside these motors and that its relatively simple to tackle the big jobs. Anyho this is the most recent piccy of the old girl just b4 i set to getting the motor out.. The first thing to do is tidy the garage, yes seriously, the second is go to the pound shop. I got 20 odd assorted plastic containers with lids, 10 round foil tins and a stainless turkey baster (perfect for degreasing) with a bottle of lamp oil ( like parafin but a third of the price) for under a tenner. Then sort out your bench, and your storage for the stripped parts Now, still not very exciting and rather tedious, clean all the grease oil and rubbish off the outside. Otherwise you will get it over you tools, yourself, the bench and most importantly the nice clean internals. This is where i'm upto at the mo. I will be pulling the barrel and the clutch etc this week and looking into getting the bits orderd to fix it, the awqward one being a barrel, anyway i'll finish on a shot of the motor as it is at the minute and i'll update later in the week. One nice clean motor.....

Thats propb what will happen, need to find a good front muddie tho..... You are missing the point, it cost me 20 quid TWENTY YEARS ago, we have both been through quite a lot since. It survived me as a teen, my old mans mid life crisis ( got pulled after pulling a wheelie long enough to take him to fourth gear up gold street in northampton, when he took off his lid the copper told him to fcuk off and grow up LOL.) i used it for a few years with the TRF green laning and even commuted to market harborough on it for 6 weeks one winter , thats a 40 odd mile run each way. Its been in general on and off use ever since. It is personal and i dont want to steralise it by replacing half of it. HA as for original ha ha ha its got the front end from a DTR125, noblies and me and mother nature, with a little help from the black stuff have removed all the non essential parts. I say again, a lot of resto's that i see have so few of the original components left in em that they should be on a bloody Q plate but they win prizes, surely that is missing the point.

But its never had a 'former glory' the bloke who bought it new used it for enduro and i got it as a worn out non runner at 6 years old (the bike that is)for twenty quid twenty odd years ago. I ask the same question as i said to pete, WHY is it better to take away what it is, a lot of resto's read like a shopping list of NOS parts.

Sorry mate the powervalve isnt a magic button, youve been told its been profesionally tuned but no-one fitted the powervalve electrics, sorry but someone is jerking your chain. If all you do is set the valve low, the power will go low and all the carberation goes to ratshit and it wont rev out. It will wheelie everywhere (for about 10min). They are either restricted or not you can't really turn them up and down like a light. The only thing to do is fit a std pipe, std jets and lock the valve back where it should be, or leave well alone and be a bit naughty.

Having a chat at work today and Pete asked me when i was going to restore the old nail (the DT). I said i wouldnt want to as after having the bike since 1988 just about every scratch dent and bodge are mine. Its generally tidy although the engine needs some hugs and kisses, rattle can paintjob and it has been used to commute, trail, enduro. Everything. He couldn't see this and said it would look great if i restored it to its former glory. We couldnt agree and i wonderd what you lot thought......?

Does it make a buzzing noise when you turn on the ig? If you have the full fat 33bhp jobbie (with noise)you may have landed on a full power version that was never restricted or de restricted by yamaha, as to restricting it its Not quite that simple. you will need to re-restrict it properly, as in remove the powervalve computer and i believe swap the cdi, peg the valve in the restricted position, correct the carburation change the carb top and restrict the exhaust effectively. If you have the garage quicky method i would just ride it cos what you think is 30 odd hp will really be about 18 but it comes as a big slap at about 7000rpm. Did no end of these as an oily youth in denim, the TZR was the big thing in my day (88) and i could wind em up pretty good in the end, could never afford one m'self.

This is meant to reasure NOT scare..... Under my bench at the moment i have a 125MX engine that would start first kick and give useable performance yet when i took the barrel off the rings FELL out and i could measure the piston skirt clearance well over 1 mm although it is on its std bore. The engines in the DT's from the late seventies to the watercooled stuff are built to last, they will run and run, even when they are half dead they will give their all. With a recent bore and bearings (done properly) that engine will be great for another 20 thou.

I think you are about right with the air filter letting her go lean, its not a perfect fix but as an exercise leave the float height and pilot jet at std settings and lift the needle a click and see if that has an effect, if it does then try upping it another step and check again if a couple of points up gets it somewhere near then you may be able to leave it at that. Or chuck a bigger main jet in. If you are in the desert then the oiled sponge is prob a better filter for you situation and the hot air will mean (i think) that you won't be as lean as i would be in our stinky UK wheather mix of hot,wet,cold,dry mixed any way you fancy every 20 minutes.

Amen to that, assumtion and missus in the same sentance has GOT to be trouble.

My best man had something similar, found his regular route, bought himself an old shed of a van, then made sure he was in front at a set of lights and nailed the brakes when they were on green, then drove off. Dumped the van just as soon as, job done. One very expensive repair job on his pride and joy.