Cynic

The rings have bust and are catching the exhaust port, if you are lucky a set of rings and a decoke, if not a full top end work over. Bore, new piston, rings, little end, etc. Sounds like the theiving fcukers thrashed the thing to within an inch of its life.

There are people on here know far more about these bikes than me but the TZR125R was built from 1993 onwards. Much as i don't want to be sending people away these guys know 125 pocket rockets inside out. http://www.125ccsportsbikes.com/forums/index.php? Its is identicle to this site as far as it goes. Bar content, odd really. Maybe Alex is moonlighting.

Not sure tbh, you need to have the clutch cover off and see if the idler is there which i doubt. When they removed the redundant idler they may have shortend the output shaft that it runs on, and the main crank case may or may not have the machining to accept it. It could just be a raw hole. You would also need the kicker its self and the oil seal for the case. That said the engine in a distant cousin kind of way is along the lines of the YZ and yam are not going to make a crosser electric start . So, in theory it could be made to work. Depends what yamaha left behind when they took it out. As a firm fan if the kickstart i can understand the desire to fit one.

Relax mike 'andy' hasn't botherd with the profile details, add that to his 'must have now attitude' is generally a pretty good idication that the forum is a whim as far as he's concerned.

You have to be more specific, where exactly is the oil coming from, pictures would be even better.

Welcome to the YOC, damn shame about the Akropovics, sounds painfull

Thats a dodgy road to travel mate, there is a lot of very willing help on this site. An attitude like that can get very lonely.

You need to speak to dewpy, he's got a set on his 400 and they do look much better than the mags.

It will be the control box switching the grips off because the bike cannot supply enough power at low rpm. Its up to you but i'd sooner the grips cut out than the motor. It would also mean the undignified experience of bumping the bike if the grips didn't cut in and out, don't look so cool outside the chippy, especially as with all the elecronic whatsits and doodahs on modern bikes there is no gaurantee it will bump with a low battery.

Er Dave i think that is more accurate.

Er thanks Gas? What have you acctually done, just died is about as lame as it gets. Unlike the diesel engines Gas favours these little smokers are a bit of a fussy bunch and discriptions like 'little squeak' dont help much. First off, plug, clean it, better still chuck it and get a new one and check you have a spark. Secondly, fuel and how old is it. Finally to start with, age/mileage and general condition. Airfilter good?, as said 2stroke oil? gearbox oil clean and topped up? Battery good (it doesent affect the spark but plays havoc with any powervalve stuff). If the pipe really stinks of fuel you may have to leave the bike with the plug out for a couple of hours with the piston at half mast to let the fuel in the motor evaporate. Kick it over every so often to speed things up. That should keep you busy.

Just a thought here, it started after the refuel. The tank breather for these old RXS's is in the cap, what happens if you ride with it open. Don't go mad obviously. Just unlock it and leave it to rest over the hole.

1500 +/-50

Don't suppose you still have the old one just to prove the 'should be fine'

Its not very exciting but i have to agree with Gas, i have got rid of my much loved suzuki cos it was loud, not significantly unless you gave it some beans but you only need a nasty neighbour or a nobber on your run to work. Think about this, "Every morning at about half seven this bloody bike goes howling past", one phone call and a community officer (plastic plods like the wombles on the motorway doing the drudgery so the proper plods can do paperwork) will be waiting to take your number. Its happend to me with the DT, someone complained but its pre81 so as long as the system is "In a sound mechanical condition" the plod (a proper one) could take a long run off a short pier.

Up to you really, i think its just hype. Pour stuff in the carb and watch the rubbish come out of the pipe. Yeah OK its just burning redex. I understand if you use it in a pot with a paintbrush it gives ok results, but then parafin will do just as good and cost a lot less.

Absoloutly and catagorically no, ferros metals like steel and iron can be cleaned with caustic as it has no effect on them. NON ferros metals like aluminium are the complete opposite if you drop your carby in a good strong caustic mix it will fizz like mad, and be completely disolved bar any inserts by morning. You could soak it in parafin or diesel, that may help. White vinegar even. Compressed air and a bit of a poke about with the wire should sort you out though.

The mods will have you for that mate, they are cracking down on hawkers. If you want help, repost in the workshop with some proper details and info and somebody will sort you out.

Check your fuel filter, there is one in the bottom of the fuel tap, then make sure there is plenty of fuel coming through. Then with the engine running spray WD40 over all the pipework,clips, etc you disturbed while messing with the carb, see if that improves the way the motor runs. If that all checks out ok clean the carb again. It is incredibly easy to mess up cleaning a carb. Personally i have some household electrical flex, stripped off the white outer cable and snipped out one of the inners (blue if your botherd), then i have sripped the covering off the first 2cm or so and use that to poke and prod all the orifices in the carb. The thin copper will shift the bits that jamm up the openings but wont damage the jets or the drillings as it will bend first.

God knows what the TCS bit is about, probably a gimmic that did something once upon a while. The air valves on the top, in theory allow you to stabilise the pressures in the forks and put a little bit (6psi) of air in to stop the oil of the time foaming. Waste of time, its such a tiddly amount of air the pressure changes with the time of day and the way you are riding. They were on my rd, you could buy a link kit at the time 'que buch voice and rock music,"Dramatically improve your handling by dynamically balancing the forks". Which was actually "make me rich buying useless tat". Decent oil changed every couple of years will make far more difference to the handling..

Now this sounds more like it, one little bubble will be the expansion as the motor warms up, exactly the reason the breather is there. The oil on the sprocket will be from a duff seal, crap from the dirty lanes it has spent its life traveling down with a big bloke + kit at no miles an hour. Also the piston, running slow 'riding the torque' is actually not all that good for a 2 stroke either, they are actually beast suited to generators and such where they can be left running at the ideal rpm where the piston 'floats' in the centre of the bore. Extreems of rpm no matter high or low will cause excessive wear, it has probably spent its entire life on choke to boot which will add to the piston wear. It sounds to me like you have it nailed, it certanly ticks all the boxes for me. Unfortunately there is no easy way of cleaning the pipes. All the options are either flammable/toxic/corrosive/cost in various combinations. It may all be relatively soft and oily, parrafin (or lamp oil, thats cheaper but the same stuff) left for a day or 2 or diesel. Or if you are carefull and use gloves ,goggles etc get yourself some caustic soda crystals, proper stuff not that cilit bang crap make it up good and strong and leave that in there for a day or so. Or! Fill the tank pick a looooong road and thrash the living daylights out of it till the smoke stops .

Check your rad cap is working properly, if the spring has gone weak it will allow the water to boil away. Thermostat is worth a look too.

If the top of the motor looks in reasonable condition leave it alone till we can get it running. You say you have a spark thats a start. This is the first question i always ask, you have got a good quantity of new, clean fuel. How did it run last time out, can you feel the compression of the motor on the kicker, is the plug wet after you have been trying to start the bike. Has it made any encouraging pops or other nearly starting noises. That should keep you busy tommorow,

Thats a tricky one, just keep an eye out on E bay, or get one made (pricey) If its the airccoled bike you are talking about then its pretty much anything dt 125/175 from 1978 to 1985, even the later LC isn't that far removed. You could certainly 'tweak it to fit'.

Before they got cute with the carbs on big thumpers they cheated. The primary carb deals with starting the engine, idle, and general running around. This gives you good torque and fuel economy. The second carb is not connected to the throttle directly it works on vacume from the primary carb and opens when the engine vacume demands it, Generally at higher rpm. Therefore you effectively have a whopping great carb when the engine can handle it and a little tea strainer when i can't.