Cynic

As far as manuals go i would think they are out there but prob is finding them. Yamaha Owners Club is a bit general for this kind of thing as you are in proper rare territory as far as these go. The Aircooled RD club would be a prime target for a few questions as the RD 350 is what this grew into (well the road version) so i would bet there will be quite some carry over of parts if yamaha were running true to form. Joining the VJMC would also be a good move (Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club, or something like) as they will be in a better position to sourse infomation and contacts for your particular model. Also, this bike will need a lot of the parts restoring, no mater their condition. You will be amazed what a vapour blaster can achive. Engine cases can be welded and re machined, bores can be re lined, bearing seats machined for a slightly bigger size to take up wear etc. Consider absoloutly nothing as beyond worth, it may help for no other reason than being a patern for a replacement.

PSSSSST, you might want to try again in the workshop section and introduce yourself.

One point to remember Vez. The wife's car was arse ended good and proper by a 7.5 tonner, the driver and the company envolved tried the standard bull to cover their arses but i knew the questions to catch him (tacograph records, ministry inspectin records etc)and i also knew that my missus who also works in the transport industry knows how to drive relative to HGV (even little ones ). We kept those particular gems till it got to court. The hire car we were given 'as part of the insurance' is actually coverd under uninsured losses. The cost is paid by the losing party providing it is noted in the claim when you state you uninsured losses. If not the hire company will come after you for the cost and be within their rights to do so. Appologies if you are fully aware of this but i was told expressly by my insurers at the time to be sure it was noted.

Got it..... Its a 1974 DT175A the tank colour is yale blue and the frame numbers ran from:- 443-000101 to 443-025820, the engine number should be the same as the frame number.

I may have a tiny interest in older 2 strokes And i fixed the link

Its a sorry looking YR2-C american spec 350. Here is a brochure of the day. YR2-C Grand Prix scrambler

Here you go 2 wheels. Think 50hp DT125 with road tyres and you are getting close. The best bit, and this affects cars and bikes the same. Everybody assumes its a 125 so when you open the taps the looks on their faces are priceless. Its a stocker too, thats ALL genuine original bodywork no busted lugs either (thats very very rare). I absofcukinglutely love this bike.

Its the pairing of the chassis and the engine that make it so special. It the bike was dear at the time and its all in the suspention. Bumpy road PAH, smooth road PAH, you want to scrape the pegs, crack on. The bike is just born hooligan.

Oh been out today, the missus had taken the kids to a party and would be gone for 3-4 hours, was it work. No, was it football, No. It was Bike keys. 150 miles and 2 tanks of gas later i'm buzzing, no dual carriage ways, no motorways just sweet A and B roads and a blast on the new Bedford ring which is just perfect, new tarmac and roundabouts with minimal traffic. Sweet, the bike is still cooling down outside pinging contentedly to its self. The title? They will never experience the sound of a 2stroke twin having the throttle nailed, the knife edge power that has the tail breaking out. Its almost erotic the howl, the airbox. No 4 stroke will ever come close. Anybody who says otherwise is deaf. What a fu king ace afternoon....... :D

Its not that scary honest. The confusing thing is the bike uses the frame as an earth return path to the battery. Should you wish to, taking a line from the '-' terminal of the battery to a convenient point at the rear of the bike is no bad thing and if you link it to the frame with a sound connection at the rear of the bike it may well save problems in the future with the earth path. Normally a bad point on older bikes. The green and brown will be the live feed to the signals, one to the right one to the left. I'm not familiar with your bike but its most likely dark green for the right and dark brown to the left. At the front there should be connectors behind the headlight that are also these colours and obviously you will connect into those. Be aware there is in all likelyhood also a lighter brown (Per live) and a brown with a (fine)white tracer(sw live). Make sure you don't confuse the dark brown for these or you may have some odd things happening. As to the signals themselves, red is live, connect that to the green or brown as appropriate. Connect the black to a suitable earth point or as said run an extra from the battery. If you have an LED kit complete then you should have some method of slowing the flash rate down, possibly a different relay or resistors to increace the load on your std relay. Where you will find the relay .??. dunno. One last thing do you have 1 or 2 lights in the dash to show whats happening with the indicators. If you only have one you may get all the lights flashing at once, its relitively easy to fix and may not be an issue but i figured you might as well know. Save some panic later. Hope this helps.

Ahhh didn't know yours went straight into the cases OG. Ok thats another reason for not having the holes in the piston. Neither suit the DTMX though.

Enjoy, everybody is different but unless its a straight flat road(track) a lot of bikes are better, my TDR is just as nutty but my hands dont hurt. That said its also an aquired taste as it also has its flaws. Ride safe.....

He is talking complete coblers more ports more power simple, trouble is without those windows there is nowhere for the fuel mix to actually get into the crank case with the design of your barrel. I can't see it working at all. The piston you have is for piston ported engines dating back to the early seventies as without the reeds you needed the full skirt with no holes to keep the mixture in the crank till the right time. You really do need the piston with holes in (tech speak) i've ridden the 175 and the 125 and the 125 needs all the help it can get as its best when reved and closing those ports will surely rob it of the ability to do just that. If closing those ports was worthwhile why did my powervalve have honking great big holes in it, (i found after it siezed it was a race engine) surely according to this fellows info they would have been closed up. Edit, made a boo boo .

Oh wow these are the bikes i really love, you can keep your shiny mint resto's your 350 has LIVED.

Well done Alex, don't and wont ever understand puters. No moving parts Glad its back up....

big +1

The important difference with the hot hatch is that it is still comfortable and well mannerd at low speeds (mine was) an R6 isn't. You will be cramped, uncomfortable and cussing the clutch slip needed at every set of lights. Back to back if what you are saying about your riding and attitude then an R1 would in all likelyhood be better as that at least has a modicum of low range torque. Don't forget you will be a target for every wannabe racer ihe land to boot. And a primary speed gun/officer target.

And with the greatest respect you will have no interest in the pissing, my dicks bigger etc contests that blokes always get into, and that is the biggest problem a new rider has. His mates are faster ( cos they have been riding longer) and he will try to keep up untill he has his first moment. Every bloke does it and most come through fine but wiser but generally financially worse off in one way or another I went the long way on bikes 50 to 100 to 125 to 350 etc. I had incidents and near misses, still do, had one recently. An R6 is a waste. You will be quicker more confident and safer on a divvy, fazer etc. You don't learn to ride till you pass your test. And as my father has said for years the most delicate component on a bike is the nut holding the bars.

+1 yes it was a long post Seriously DONT get an R6, ive been riding for over 20years and you need to be very 'dedicated' to enjoy something that focused. I didn't get any further along the performance tree than a GSX600f and that came with enough moments in the normal world of idiots and red mist. I did all the knee down faff too. You actually need to slow down to do it on the road how stupid is that My personal ride, a TDR250, goes like buggery to 90, and is at its very best between 50-80 so for these days of camera's and pc public its perfect. The R6 will be an uncomfortable pain in the arse (literally)till you are in licence busting speeds. I'd be looking at a bandit or fazer, something that is still bloody fast but will give you a second chance WHEN you miss something.

If you are going for the full motox type of wiring then you will only need the coil low tension routed through a kill switch on its way to the ig coil. Thats it 1 wire, well 2 if you are being picky, no battery nothing. The ignition system generates its own electric. Its fully separated from the rest of the stuff on the bike electrically. Even has its own coil.

The Dt is very usable as day to day transport. I only mothballed mine due to changing shift to a 0300 start and the neighbours got a bit grippy with the dt barking into life at 0240 in the morning. And maybe one or two minor mechanical points to adress ahem. As far as owning one goes. The most important part. Take someone with you so you buy a good one. There are counless bodged up 'resto's' or bikes that need bits to finish. Ignore them and go for a good clean standard ish (pipe's are common) bike. When you find a good one all you really need to do is keep it serviced and clean. Oh and avoid motorways as realistically 60 is absoloutly flat out. As a general guide, crank seals on low milage bikes, swing arm spindle and chain tensioners sieze, brakes are marginal at best. Tank only holds a gallon and a bit (range of around 50miles) and the wiring can be troublesome but then it is 30 years old. To finish, the headlight is absouloutly shite. Not put you off good. I've had mine for 22 years, a complete toy now but was my only transport for several years, then when hitched it again became main transport as wifey had the car. Used to do market harborough from northampton daily in all weathers about 40-45 odd mile round trip. It has its limits but its honest, keep up with general maintainance and it will happily serve you for years, as a final note the later 80-81 bikes have some updates over the 79 that give it a(very tiny)bit more zip and a better CDI.

Right a good clean std bike. Looks right but then 74-77 did look similar, the graphics though did change and with a bit of luck someone on here may be able to nail it down a little nearer i'll see what i can find. It does look to have the oversize front tyre that the A/B had for whatever reason but that isn't a definite to date the chassis from.

Yes there was they just didn't send them to America. Kissing cousin of the CT1 sold from 75/6 to 78. Best shot on the vin number is a DT175A circa 74, a picture would help quite a bit. Can you read the engine number by any chance, should be on the top RHside of the engine under the carb.

Hi I think that its the spacing of the magnets inside the flywheel. There is a gap, well slightly wider spacing at one point and i think the CDI can 'see' the gap. At least thats my understanding anyway.

You need to clean the carbon of the top of the piston, take it steady with a wire brush or similar and you should see some numbers stamped in the top if it had been bored which is more than likely with a stroker. generally it runs at .25, .50 and .75 above that you will most likely be into patern parts but some of the manufacturers go to 2.0mm So once you have cleaned the piston up so its nice and shiny you will see any numbers that will be there, generally they are towards the exhaust port. Then you will be able to order a piston at ## oversize.