Cynic

There is a DT125MX motor under my bench, needs a rebuild but that can be done comprehensively for under 250. As for a loom to make it run. 1 wire Aircooled to boot so no plumbing issues. An exhaust would sting you another 80 odd quid for a new one but if you can get a stocker off ebay which are not all that rare you could cut it about to suit the bobber. Most importantly it is a 125 that can, (although you'd be a very naughty boy) make into a 175 in about 20minutes if your handy with the spanners. Also the details for the 'big bore' are in the std manual ie std dt175. With the right gearing i can see that hitting 70 in a bobber readily enough, they book at around 17hp

I call my bike Gail, anything else and she sulks and leaves me with the housework

Maybe being a bit dim here but! Are we all going to wear a red scarf or something as we have talked for years in some cases but the only face were likely to recognise is OG. Is there something or somewhere at the cafe we can use as a rally point?

If he had checked the plug then at least 50per cent of the coil connections and where to find it would no longer be a mystery eh?

Well done cleaning the ugly lump off for the second picture,

I can never understand why people do this, surely the FIRST thing is to get some ideas as to why it wont run and why it lost its spark. Get and read a manual, that would give you some initial targets. It could just be a duff plug for chrisakes.

Unfortunately REED's were a simple and popular mod. It really would help if we had some pictures to work from here? As you work through the motor look for part/casting numbers that may help on some of the bigger lumps , stuff thats tricky to change. A bike that is nearly 40 years old, especially a 2 stroke is very unlikely to have the original barrel in place, (unless owned by Oldgitonabike ) so i would not use that as a dating reference.

OOOOH if its in the ig circuit then its more likely there to prevent a reflected signal from the coil upsetting things so i'd leave it there for now. The avalance diode was an early improvement on a big assed power resistor bolted to the frame to control the charging voltage for the battery/lights. But the important point here is that it was fitted in the charging circuit. Any nearer with getting her running?

If you have just bought it take it back. Otherwise check the gearbox oil on a daily basis and even money says it will be dropping. Crank seals, bit much on a new bike.

For me, i have used dealers now on 3 occations, once for my suzuki and for the nissan (brand new) and our range rover. The range rover came from a dealer as we thought that would protect us from some of the popular problems. All vehicles had issues and every time the dealers were shit based on my own experiences. Once they have the cash they didn't want to know. I personally don't rate the work of dealers either, admitted i have a good idea which end of a spanner to use but that has come from watching my dad fix stuff on the drive and a 'what if' attitude to mechanics rather than a 'I don't know so i'll leave well alone'. Don't get me wrong if it ain't broke i wont try to fix it. But if my TDR blew up i'd be breaking the spanners out without a thought even though i've never been into one of those lumps. Dealers have to make a profit and their fitters (mechanic is an overused term these days, and my father will forcefully explain the difference) are at work. I fix my bike for pleasure, if i don't feel like it or have had a late night i'll do it the day after, they have no choice. I'm not having to fill time sheets and targets so i can do a better job IMO. Gaffer tape and such. We have all done it to some degree, any bike reaching that stage in life will be refused by a garage anyway.

Great news. Thanks for the follow up.

Thats the puppy, so we can safely chuck that in the bin with all the other charging/lighting stuff.

Hmmm, i chopped a big chunk off the end Chopped it all out now.

Firstly phone numbers in open forum is asking for trouble. Secondly, yes on both counts. Tearing the engine down is nessesary and you can get all the bits. TY Trials are TY/DT specialists in the uk and carry it all on the shelf and ship worldwide. It has been said that you can change them whithout tearing the motor down but if the crank seals are gone the mains are likely to be very worn (one of the causes of seal failure) and all the other seals on the motor will be shot or nearly. One certainty is the output bearing and seal being shot and they require even more stripping than the crank as the gearbox cluster has to be removed. Sounds heavy but in truth a good spanner set, heat gun, flywheel puller and a torque wrench and its a pretty straight foreward affair.

Kapow, in while i'm not looking OG

The funky diode thing is driving me nuts, it was on a while back from somebody else and for the life of me i can't recall what its for. Am i right (looking at the photo) that its in the black ig feed? No you dont need a battery, i take it she's going to be a bush basher then?

Absoloutly not a shot at you, purely an example that appeared as i was on the puter.

Here is a nasty diagram typical of the early seventies, it is not clear and all that accurate either. DT 175 A diagram This is a much clearer diagram for the DT175C which is practically the same as yours. DT 175 B/C (1975) Diagram If the wiring isn't the same it will be very close. As in near enough to work from. There are small links and odd connections that sneak in that aren't on the main drawings so some common sence is needed on the older stuff. When i rewired my 175 there was quite a few extras i didn't realise i needed till i picked the old loom apart one wire at a time. Hope this helps. Diagrams thanks to Dewpy's link in the workshop section

A perfect example...

Advice, yes click my sig and have a read...

Pretty much what happens with your ignition is...... The ignition sourse coil generates the primary voltage, i will emphasise the battery has NOTHING to do with ignition. This passes to the points and condenser. The condeser stores excess voltage and releases it when the points close. If the condesers fail they allow the ig voltage to drop to earth and kills the spark. From here it will travel to the ignition coil, the kill switch and obviously the ignition. If the kill switch is connected to ground the electricity being naturally lazy will take the easy way to ground. This naturally means no electric passing through the ig coil and so no spark. With the kill switch not grounding the circuit the electric will subsequently pass into the ig coil and generate the secondary high voltage to supply the spark.

Welcome to the madhouse Bartek At 150notes with no paperwork i would imagine trying to register it will bring a van with a couple of blue lights on top to take it away. I'd be checking one of those reg checker sites if you do find the number BEFORE trying to register it. Or stick with the Red Bull crosser. Sounds interesting.

So far looking good, been a long time since i strapped a tent on the back of the bike. Probably been as long since i slept in one .

Vez.... Tut May i refer you to the grumpy old b's. I would have thought the response to this post required as much effort as was used to write it. 'Bout 70' Sorted.