Cynic

When the bike was brand new it would have been fully capable of running in very wet conditions. All you need is some WD40 or similar water dispersant lube. Spray liberally on all the ignition components and any other wiring that will suffer from water, that should fix it. I had a Suzuki GSX600 that at 2 years old started to missfire in rain, good spray of WD40 at each service, all fixed, never did it again

How long have you been riding the bike? can you get all the other gears or is that it 1st and neutral?, oil in the box?, lever properly adjusted to your foot?, shaft not stiff in the case?, you are aware it takes a bigger kick to get across neutral and into second cleanly. All items to consider before splitting the cases.

She holds 2.7 gallons, or 12 litres. Work into that that probably 1 to 1 1/2 litres will never come out, you dont mention if you used reserve which will be probably another 3 litres. So were down to around 8 litres, 115 miles gives you around 70 to the gallon depending if it was brim full to kick off. Not half bad for a 20+ year old bike. If you want the magic figure people quote you will have to have the whole bike in tip top nick, engine oil, air filter, chain, exhaust etc etc will have to be mint with no wear or stress. Don't forget of course your personall height and weight will also have a big effect on fuel figures. I'm only jealous, my 250 is very lucky to get 40to the gallon and my 175 struggles to make 50.

Does your neutral light work? Other than that from the picture i can't really say. If any of the other wires in that part of the loom were disconnected then its unlikely she'd run. Although that neutral light wire should be light blue. Better picture would be handy.

Mount sprockets on the flywheels connecting them with a primary chain, junk all the gearbox internals of engine one (front) make sure the gearbox on engine 2 is in top nick and then sync the cranks up so you can use the wasted spark of the original ignition therby making a square 4. (sort of) Best of fun with the carbs and just possibly a slightly stronger frame/welding may be required for a 700cc 2 stroke. The stuff in the picture, junk. As said a waste.

I still thinks the devil nicks your bike when he REALLY wants to scare people Mad Max wasn't a fantasy, alive and kicking in Scotland

Cheers Dewps, looks good. Think i'm going to get an armband and sew it to that, last thing i want in this weather, and what is supposed to be coming is a leaky jacket from my half arsed sewing.

Classic brit bikes. Nah, shows just what a conceited lot we were. Vincent, 1000cc V twin, cantelever rear suspention fastest production motorcycle in the world, for a couple of years maybe?, nope till the bloody seventies and stuff like the CB750 and the Z1 appeared . The japs didnt steal the industry we gave it to em wrapped in pretty paper. I'm with Kev, oily shite.

What a waste.

No No kev, they are asking about classics not your LC

No i don't think you have that right. Surely the eyewatering would be either during the eating, or more likely during the relief area so there would be minimal decrease in speed from the eyewatering. Did you know it was the pioneering jet designer at lockheed working late after too many taco's farted on a candle and discoverd the afterburner

Hot air gun, kind of thing you use for stripping paint. NOT a blowtorch. With the heat gun you won't damage the ally but you will get it plenty hot enough for the seals to come out cos the ally has 'grown' or the seals melted a little. Works every time for me.

On a more serious note try this. Using details from your manual. Find out the primary drive ratio, this is the connection between the crank and the clutch. Then use the ratio you need from the gear cluster, in this instance top gear. Then from there use the final drive ratio and ultimately figure the rolling radius of the rear tyre. From this you can work out, with an accurate taco the no bulshit top speed of your bike and see how final drive changes may affect the middle gears too as you can see the speed/rpm overlaps and decide if its a step too far.

Oh no no no. That motor of his can take you to hell in a heatbeat just listening to i.t WTF does it matter WHAT gear its in. I rode for miles just listening to it. If lucifer rides a bike then it sounds like that.....

To be honest what you have done is pretty much it. Any more and the engine manners get nasty. Its more a case of getting power that is useable rather than some fabulous peak figue. As to porting stick with increacing the area of the transfer ports, don't raise them much if at all though. Get them as even as possible. When you look down the barrel with the piston in place it seems that the piston is masking the transfers and lifting the barrel will help. It makes bugger all worthwhile difference. The final nail in the tuning coffin is these engines suffer detonation as you have found already, this stopps a lot of what may be possible with the exhaust port and higher rpm. You could try the later 3U500 carb that runs a 160 main std as its designed for a different airbox and gives more high RPM power. Mine (an 81) with a pipe and some airbox tweaks is running a 170 and goes OK up to 9000rpm (briefly if you need it). Hope this helps.

I had a YDS3 that was very similar to that but it also had the idiot lights in it too. With those being missing but the unit being similar shape and style i'd say its from a YDS2 or a YDS1 possibly. Circa 67-70. Before that i don't think there was the combination taco/spedo. Just the spedo and later they were 2 pod units on the bars. I have pics of the bikes but not of the clocks. I'll have a dig.

I have 2 kids and the missus if i want patronising, good luck with it.

Ok? How exactly does it foul the brake lever. It sits below the kicker, they should be nowhere near each other. As far as i'm aware its the same shaft from 71to 84/5ish pretty much bar a few spacers and the spring tension. Some pictures would be usefull.

So, what was wrong with it? You posted the problem, put the fix up as well. It may help out another member who is having similar problems.

You could try going a little higher with the oil weight, possibly some progressive springs but you are going to have a hard time making the bike behave with a modern shock and stone age ( compared to the fazer) forks, they will always be lacking. Why not see if you can track down the fazer front end, with a little luck complete from a brakers you could get one for maybe 150 all in. Or TZR250 stuff that may be a better match to the weight/performance of the bike.

There are loads of 125's with 175 top ends, easiest check. Count the cylinder head bolts. 125 has 4, 175 has 6, simple as for the plug all DT175/125mx's have NGK B8ES except the g and h they had a B9ES. As to what the bike is pop the frame numbers up and we can nail it for sure.

Don't get me started, the colourd guy is quick enough to come back after the old boy twatted his car. I bet he was laughing at the fact he'd blocked the old guy in and he couldn't do anything about it. As for the sentance. Get caught driving at 2 or 3 times the legal limit, couple of hundred quid fine and a 12 month ban. How can they justify 2 grand and a 12 month ban for punting the back of an old car. Oh sorry forgot, he's english. Were supposed to let every other beast in creation fcuk us over and smile. What would have happend if the people swapped places, bit of community service? Maybe i'm being cynical.

Calm your pipes, i wasn't having a pop. Just people comment on the quality or lack of attenuating to their manual with this kind of issue. You made no mention of it at all.

I'd agree with Paul, i had something similar that was doing my box in. Turned out to be the floats had perished and were allowing fuel in and spoiling the settings.

Wife goes on and on to her husband, come on we have been together a long time now just HOW many women have you been intimate with. I have told you you were my one and only. You will just get mad says the husband No says the wife i promise, i absoloutely will not be affected by what you tell me were adults. Ok, well, one, two, three, four, five, then you, six, seven, eight.......