Cynic

If i had an RDD11R I would have snapped it up for loads but, just a DT and a TDR sorry. Others are being a bit tight though, got to be a turnip AND an onion.

Wierd, the divvy's air cooled. Is it just on the filler/level plug or is it all through the engine?

That link for the joiners is spot on cheers. I did find an old post about something like this but the link didn't work. The only ones i found with a look yesterday were blue, on a black and yellow TDR I just figured as all the pipe on my TDR appears to be 20+ years old and no better for the experience i may as well change the lot. And i quite like the clear stuff, seeing the stuff moving about.

Hi all, anybody got a source for the clear fuel and oil pipe , i've seen it on eb for a zillion quid a foot. Is there anywhere else any of you lot would reccomend. Have been burnt by ebay before with some supposed fuel pipe for the landy that lasted about 6 weeks so would prefer to buy on reccomendation. . Cheers.......

All it does is splash lube the gearbox/clutch components, it isn't pumped anywhere, the cases are'nt pressurised or shouldn't be. So long as there is oil on the dipstick at or around the right level it really isn't that much of an issue. On a 4stroke oil is the lifeblood of the bike. Not quite so vital on these little strokers.

If its the same for both sides it could be dirty switch contacts or bad ind unit or most likely TBH battery condition. HTH

Oh no, no, no. Its a minor slight to 4 strokes from the 2 stroke fans thats all. 4 stroke bikes are great but as far as getting oily with them compared to strokers i'm in the dark. aircooled DT's on the other hand

Woah, now were in Drewps territory, i don't do diesels......

No, shouldn't worry on it so long as the carbs are ok it wont hurt just this time.

On will give fuel only(if its working right)when the engine's running down to a certain level maybe 3-4 litres Res will give fuel only(if its working right)when the engine's running down to all but empty. Pri will give fuel like the on position but irrispective of the engine running So leave it in the on position.

Your idle jet's blocked, look at the main jet, next to it in a recess is a much smaller jet that you can remove with a small flat bladed screwdriver. Even money thats blocked.

They won't know where to start. Oldschool mechanics would be able to do it in their sleep but the current generation of 'fitters' will have been trained to do just that. Fit parts. You would get a long list of could be's might be's and possibles that end up with the reccomendation that its all had it as they don't have the Yamaha manual to fix it. Very good place for engine/gearbox parts is TY trials, they actually specialise in TY bikes but the engines are VERY similar, 1 bearing and the gear change assy is all thats different i believe. Make sure your sitting down if you ask for the price for a gen piston though . Mitaka are fine and a quarter the price. Genuine bloke, will happily yap about their stuff if you are buying their bits for your bike. Good service too, they sent an incorect bearing to me and sent the replacement out as soon as i told them, no charge. With a "Send it back when you can" for the incorrect unit.

You really don't need to get into that too much. To fix it so it works with gen bits would be 3-40 quid, to fully build it back up would be around 80, pluss a piston/bore if needed. My feeling is there is an oil issue coupled to mr rebuild man not being entireely honest about his skills and some buggerd rings. My engine before i rebuilt it had: Both crank seals worn, Both crank bearings worn, Output shaft bearing and seal worn Piston rings worn and passing gas Piston crown melted due to ignition/fuling error from some years ago Leaky head gasket Exhaust that was as much weld as metal and leaked spectacularily. With all that lot she still ran and would give around 45-50mph. Acceleration was hardly shocking and starting was an art but she ran, all it cost me was 90quid to replace all the seals/gaskets and bearings (with gen Yam stuff too)and drop on a good barrel and piston i had. Do it easily in a weekend if you set your stall out properly. The best bit, i now know when i'm going to work she will start. I can rely on it as i know its good. Ebay the bike as a non runner and you WILL lose more than it will cost you to fix, and may end up with another dud. You may even get away with just some rings, i think you would be mad not to at least investigate further. And as for basic technology, take away the electronics and there is nowt special about any engine. Just nuts and bolts.

Phew had me worried for a second there

I'll put this up, nobody ever seems to take the offer though, and it has been in the forsale section a couple of times. This will be the third time i've been down the 'spare stuff for off road.....' route. I have yolks, forks, disk, caliper, master cyl, wheel for a dtr 125. I want it gone but don't want to throw it away, sacrilidge if you like. It isn't mint but was good enough to pass MOT's. It used to live on my DT for greenlane work but that is now back to stock. If you want it shout i'm not after a lot just can't bring myself to throw it away.

Got any pictures? did you take the barrel off or look up the exhaust port while the exhaust was off to check the piston condition. I say this because if its clean and sweet it hasn't mixed with the gearbox oil which is at least a dark brown due to clutch debris. Secondly i don't think there is physically enough oil in the 2 stroke tank to fill the box to the breather. Which brings me to the thought that the 2 stroke connections are wrong somehow hense oil starvation and possibly damaged rings(ie compression loss) the high temp from low oil may also cause the ally to expand causing the head to come loose. If you didn't ride it that far bar a set of rings all could be ok, my crank has taken spectacular abuse far worse than you have discribed and is still 'within tolerances '

Not being funny but that discription sucks. So am i right in saying oil is coming from the gearbox vent under the carb? If so undoing the oil filler would result in oil coming out, at a bit of a lick too. Have you checked the oil level in the gearbox? and if its clean enough the colour of it compared to your 2 stroke oil?

DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER DID DURING THE REBUILD? Very important question as a can of VHT, some SAE50 for the gearbox and a little bit of luck and a right boner of an engine can be made to look like a champion. More worryingly a rebuilt engine would have these seals done. It could be a genuine error. The Oring inside the primary gear is a popular forget, or the rebuild may have consisted of a rebore and a piston. Which can if they are already weak knock out crank seals due to all the new compression. The good news is a full bottom end re-build providing the crank its self is good and you know which end of a spanner is which, i'm not being sarcastic here either a competant DIY mechanic will find it perfectly doable. It can be done all in, with gen gaskets and seals/bearings for around 80quid. Cold comfort i know but you will be able to say you have eliminated all other problems then eh You say you have an engine oil leak? As in oil is leaking out, or its burning gearbox oil. If it is leaking out where from specifically. Did it run ok before it lost power.

According to DVLA it hasn't been taxed in the last 5 years either so how'd he ride it to spain?

Price you pay for performance and the frankly ridiculous ideas the japs have. One light is dip one mainbeam, to have both on dip and main means more wire, different bulbs adding a nats nakkers worth of extra weight and increacing load on an electrical system thats designed to supply just enough electric. Law doesent say both have to be on together, i had a 350 streetfighter that (for the mot anyway) is how the lights on that worked. When not for the mot man i had couple of relays connected up that swapped them from sieries to parralel connection as the lights i had would only take single fillament bulbs. That way i always had both lights lit.

One very simple question, do you like going fast. De restricted with some tweaks that 'prilla' will nigh on do a genuine 100mph. Can you come down to live with the rest of us at 50-60 and be happy ?

Yes your bike is a japaneese import, on Japan market bikes the model code is all that is stamped on the casings. Like my TDR 250 with 1KT as an engine number. But, and its a biggy. Italy has some hideous registration/import requirements that can cost an absoloute fortune. Not to mention a 6 month limit to registering the vehicle. See the link below, its in English but yours looks pretty good so you should be ok. Imprting vehicles into Italy Thought this might help a little, some info on your bike from a TTR nut. Usefull TTR info Sorry can't be more help.

Absoloutly, i looked at several TDR's before i plumped for the one i have. Patience will pay off mate. It is good to check the Fazers over as like i said they rot like bad fruit if neglected. I got my TDR through the owners club, anything like that for the Fazer?

This is the type of modern attitude that gets right up my nose. 'Help me now, c'mon now. Not botherd? well f'k off then i'll fix it myself cos i don't need the help i was asking for, do i.' This is the kind of issue where people may have a look through stuff they have. Maybe search out a few bits online. Maybe some suggestions. I had done just that and had a couple of suggestions but now, nah. With your present view of us and your statement that you don't care if you have pissed anybody off, right back at ya.

Are you planning to use it year round cos them fazers rot like old fruit when ridden in bad weather. For comfort ,miles and reliability the Transalp has it. Nearly bought one myself. Then i rememberd why i ride bikes and binned the idea of a sensible option.... And bought a 250 2 stroke with a build quality rep that makes a Datsun Cherry look over engineered. Hmmm I'll shut up before i get myself into trouble.....