Cynic

Tch Al The sky hooks and the left handed driver are on the long stand. You know under the long weight Light one of the pre tested matches and you will find it no bother.

I use a pushbike pump, seriously. Not the oldy world thing you used to find on the cross bar but a propper 2 handed high volume plunger job. You know one looks like an old fasioned dynamite plunger from the cartoons. Anyway its designed for mountain bikes and goes up to 80psi, use it for the car, caravan, bike everything that needs air. They are about 30quid in halfo#ds. Makes bike tyres easy, esp as they should be done cold.

You can't eliminate the choke. Every single engine on the planet needs a slightly richer mixture to start, then is leaned out for emmisions, economy, noise (yes really). The people who don't need choke are just wasting gas.

They never had one, paddoc stand is your best option.

If the bike is stock then it should be ok as is. At extreem altitude there may be slight variations. Don't forget at altitude your bike carburation will actually go rich, due to the lack of air density, but the same lack of density will reduce the vacume in the carb so reducing the draw over the jets so it 'should' self compensate to a degree just HP figures drop off. It may be worth cleaning your carb before you go further.

Nah the tidlers for keeping the crud off the widowmaker in the background.

EEEEEEEEEWW too much infomation

Reminds me of the dark ages when me and my mates were 16 all dicking around on DT's Ts's FS1e etc with big bores and whatnot thinking were the bee's wotsits. Rob bought a C50 (same thing pretty much but h#nda) Oh how we all mocked........ Till he chucked all the grandad plastics and stuffed a 90motor in it, wasn't so funny then when we got humbled by a naked chicken...... The fact that Rob possesed the self preservation of a HariKar Hairi Kar japaneese suicide pilot didn't help.

Wise move, it takes a certain knack to get a peeky 2 stroke performing properly. Its all about looking ahead and picking the right gear at the right moment, with only 2- 2 1/2 thosand rpm of power you have to get it right all the time, its intense but also rewarding. Unfortunately it also takes experience to get it right, you are probably not that down on power either with the valve rolled back. A lot of the time the reason the kick feels so huge is because there is bugger all to start with. Fair play to you,

Introduce yourself properly. Buy a new bulb Check and repair/resecure the taillight earth. Thats 95% of the causes of your problem.

Your welcome to try and find a good one, be advised though they fall firmly in the 'For experienced users only' category. And they don't last, are unreliable, are rare and engine parts esp are expensive. Otherwise there great. I do wonder if the pv and cdi wouldn't work on your DT with some persuation though.

Heh add another 30hp to that kick in the arse at 6k and you have the TDR250. Better than any drug,

My old V8 land rover would do exactly the same when the condenser was past its best. To the point i kept a spare mounted next to it on the dissy mount. Once i felt the telltale missfire i'd swap. I would definately swap out the condenser, it is a bit of a pain but you really cannot fault find something like this without correcting something so likely to be the cause.

I wouldn't run so close to the max, leave a little room, with those numbers your not allowing any volt drop. I used 1mm minimum on the DT if for nothing else reliability. The weight difference in the wire is nothing. As far as keeping it tight thats down to planning. If you spend the time planning a good bare minimum loom and plan your switching and component locations you will not need much. As to the bullet connectors, use standard off the shelf easy to get type and solder the smaller wires in only way to gaurantee good connections. Also your loom for your bike not a production line so keep it as complete as possible with as few connections as possible. Use solid solder connections with heat shrink over where your not likely to disturb them, then if you do need to break it. Quick stanly on the heat sleve and a touch with the iron and its disconnected.

When i had dunked the DT on greenlanes the normal practice was to stand the bike on its back wheel and crank it over a few times with the kicker, minus the plug of course. (What trees are for in the country ) Take the bung out the bottom of the carb and dump the float contents then start it back up. Does tend to knacker your crank seals though. So all in some coolant in the cases is nowt to fret on. If it was in the gearbox its self, that would be a much bigger issue.

If you think about it, you have a bike thats nicked and a straight engine, then you use the engine number with the bike and deliberately powdercoat the headstock heavily. Ta daaaa. Easy ringer.

Buy/beg steal a manual, std advice really but more so here. The 750tripple has a lot of 'character' not the words a mate of mine used running one but you get the idea. Bit hypocritical coming from a dedicated 2 stroke nut but there you go... If you keep it well maintained it will be fine but they don't reward bad maintainance. Otherwse, welcome.

Oh, off road. On road tyres... Ok some basics, the front brake is the devils tool till you get used to its limits avoid as it will tuck the front and dump you in the dirt. Figure out where the power is on your bike and how it comes in and try to ride just under it, so opening the throttle will get decent go, but the motor isn't racing uneccesarily. Your stopping distances will be H__U__G__E. Stay on your feet, knees bent. Get used to falling off, you will.

Pink, that could be ATF or 2 stroke oil, someone may have taken the engine oil statement in the manual and thought it means 2 stroke.......

Are you sure all of the pistons are free to move, also, if possible drop the wheel out and use something like a piece of flat bar between the pistons so they come out much further and come up against something solid. Then once the system is full and roughly bled push the pistons back, this will put a lot of fluid back to the mc so be ready and the brakes should be ok. With having to move all 6 pistons there is a lot for the little bit of fluid to do so the bleeding has to be perfect, it will take time and no small amount of effort, not to mention brake fluid to get them half sharp. Alternatively throw the bloody lot in the bin and get the set up from an R1, FAR better brakes and a bloody site easier to bleed.

float height?

Ok, i still don't believe this but anyway, in Grantham by the school is a spot where a kin great puddle forms every time there is a half decent drop of rain. Well today was such a day, ratting it down for a good half hour so the aforsaid puddle was a good 20feet long and the splash zone was at least 9ft up the school building. Ahh, what is this leading to?, i think you can guess the basics. I was approaching said puddle and much as its tempting to soak the general public its actually illegal to do it with a vehicle, 'on purpose '. So i'm approaching said puddle at the same time as a delightfull young lady, she clocks the obvious danger as i was slowing to avoid the soaking and she stopped. So i drove on through and caused a big splash much fun....But! As soon as the splash has cleared miss pert buttocks starts walking yep, she hadn't figured on the trailer wheels.........Drowned rat doesent come close, the water hit the building at least 2ft above her and dropped in a dirty sheet. I didn't laugh, honest..........

Too right +1 on the 'yawn' for what they are they are sh1te. Not to mention the mother of all bastards to bleed properly. People thing single caliper set ups give greif pah!, got nothing on those 6 pots. The nissin 4pots used on bandit 12's and the last of the gsxr's were as strong and give masses of feedback by comparison and should IIRC go straight on, as well as being cheap cos bandit12's are everywhere..

You can put it in wrong tone, back to front then the angled section on the slide designed to rest on the idle screw rests on the guide pin and the slide stays right at the top of the carb body and hey presto flat out on start up.

From what i read on the bikechat forum you have done nothing to remedy the reed switch in the spedo, cetainly no clarification. Secondly why the obsession with the powervalve opening, if you think thats the issue. I don't, just take the gubbins off the side of the barrel tie it up out of the way and have a ride round tweaking the valve by hand, or with some pliers. That will show its effect if nothing else.