Cynic

I would have said you were well past at least an inspection if its never been done, I used to inspect/adjust my 600 every 6K. If you can hear them ticking every 'tick' is damage/wear.

Er, its nothing to do with security it shuts the fueling down if the bike leans over too far, like an accident. I don't see the issue Ttask?

Haynes manual is around 15 quid, will pay back 10 fold. Or go clymer, same thing. Haven't the faintest idea on your problem and a "lean sensor"; if you say so, both of my bikes are from the last millenium and cdi is about as high tec as they get. Personally i wouldn't let fitters, "they stopped being mechanics long ago" within spitting distance of either of my bikes. Have a go yourself, you want to, you do.

Oh fair enough, perfectly valid.

What possible benefit is there to remote start on a motorcycle.......

What a waste of time, ended up buying exactly what he didn't want suggested. I would have said go old, i mean REAL old not late 2003 or something. Find something 4 stroke, late 80's gem hiden away and with only a very small amount more maintainance you could have saved a packet on insurance, classic specified value etc. Thats a lot of fuel and a lot more street cred. Agood FZ750 for ex would have been spot on. Fast, reliable. Ah well.

If your wearing race leathers trousers inside so that track doesent snag and pull them up and cause injury. If your a poor oik like myself riding to work when its snotting it down then over the top with waterproofs with a velcro strap to snug them up so they don't flap.

I wish, you can't even get the slides out without taking the exhausts off, and to remove those you need the rad covers off, to get those off yah, yah, yah

Oh well, thought i'd sorted my flooding issue but alas the carbs have got to come off. Its a complete arse of a job almost as bad as a TDM. Pipes galore and you have to take half the bike to bits to boot, tank, seat, exhausts, rad, all bodywork. All for a little bit of crap stuck in the float. Gutted.

They are aluminium with a steel sprocket ring that carries the chain, any of the aftermarket people do em. Waste of time if you ask me. Unless your anal over your cleaning it will be covered in black shit soon enough.

Sounds like it, probably the battery line. Would explain why everything dims together as the headlight is killing the battery you may not even have a proper generator lighting feed. Reving the engine to 5000rpm you should have around 7v at the battery terminals with the lights off. Next, have a look on the LHS of the bike near the neutral switch there should be a conector/connectors (models/bodgers differ) there should/will be a green/yellow wire which should be .30ohms +-10% and a yellow wire which should be .18ohm +-10% when checked using the engine as earth.

Ok here goes nothing.... The stator is the stationary part of the charging system. On the stator plate you have some coils, an ignition coil that generates the power for the ig system. As well as the charging coil which on most of the 175's is also the lighting coil. You also have the rotor, look behind your LH (chain side) engine cover and you will see a heavy round unit, this is the rotor. This as the name suggests rotates around the stator and contains a number of magnets. These excite the coils and cause the electical energy to be created. DO NOT use the oldskool removal method of a hammer on the shaft and screwdrivers to pry. You stand a very real chance of damaging the rotor, magnets or crank bearings. All of them if your really lucky. A puller is available from the auction sites for around a tenner VERY worthwhile as it fits most Yams at or around this cc. The electricity thus generated is high frequency AC, this is good if a little awkward. The elecrical energy for the headlight travels via a rather unsophisticated diode to make it DC after a fasion. At the same time via the ig switch this is also connected to the regulator, depending on the model it will be under the seat on the rear muddy or behind the kicker on the frame. This keeps the electrical energy at around 6 volts. The spare goes to the battery and feeds other electricals like your brake lights, indicators etc. With the lights off the same happens but without the lights (amazing huh) and the juice just feeds anciliries and charges the battery. The biggest problem is that motorcycle manufacturers are always after making things as small/light efficient as possible so if the bike needs 300W to power everything then it will generate 310W max. So there is very very little spare. Hence reccomending you check everything. Do you know your way around an electrical test meter for ohms primarily?

Ok well your extensive knowledge of cars will be useless here, only joking the mechanical principles apply as my Dad puts it " its only nuts and bolts" but bikes do it differently. For starters there may be not a whole lot wrong with any one part just 30 years of age. First, make sure the battery is OK, i mean proper ok too as it is most likely buggerd. Second check all connectors and earth points, clean them and check they are tight. As a help for duff indicators a electronic relay helps no end with lower rated bulbs. A last consideration, a couple of the lads on here have swapped the electricals (well documented process in the thread) around to run 12v instead of 6. Have a search see what you think it may be a better option.

Keep the divvy, no reason to rip a perfectly good bike apart. That one looks a treat. Why not get something cheap to have a bash at first.

You say EVERYTHING gets dimmer, need a little bit more here before offering a response. Pop the chassis number so we can check ( minus the last couple of numbers if your worried) up as this sounds like the 12v eleccy start model with a generator, bit more complex.

Another one............. Leave it alone and take riding lessons, knowing how to stop, turn and brake properly will make you far quicker than any of your mates running on luck. You will also be leagal and far safer. Might drop your insurance too.

Try searching for swing arm BUSHES instead as they are not ball bearing units that you may be thinking of. You may find that you need to rebush the linkage as well. Its all in the same place and subject to the same abuse. My TDR has been stripped and greased regularily, my old suzuki was done twice a year. When was yours last done?

Is anybody actually reading the original post, he is 10% lower speed wise when the bike is at max revs in any particular gear. He also changed the c+s in the 'rebuild'. Untill proven otherwise i say its the c+s fact.

If its a straight replacement as oppose to a noisy wanna go faster one then unlikely. Check with the company to be sure.

I have to say this out of earshot of the health and safety police, but a power drill with a suitable socket on the flywheel nut (doesent want to be a tight fit loose is good here) is a quick way of priming up the engine, don't spin it the wrong way though as 2 strokes will run backwards. Otherwise i agree with the above, except broken rings in an 'apparently' good bore says massive overev to me an that could be crank seals.

Explains why its cheap i guess. If you saved a packet on the bike why not look at getting a collector made so you can have 2 silencers of your choice. Any decent half decent welder/engineer shouldn't have a problem with it.

More like a Spayce kadet.

Again and again this tripe crops up, don't suppose you feed your cat dog food do you. Seriously motorcycle oil is at its most basic effectively engine AND gearbox oil mixed together. A car's engine oil has a high compressive tolerance to be squeezed into gaps, it doesent have a high shear resistance needed to keep it on the face of meshing gears. Also there are the different additives needed between the engines. Cars have friction reducers as said, bikes also have friction reducers (ha wasn't expecting that) its just car oil mainly uses silicon based friction modifiers. Bikes use cleverer chemical modifiers that don't affect clutch opperation. By comparison car engines are junk, specific output of 120HP from 1600cc, thats 75hp/litre! my 250 makes 50hp, or 200hp/litre. Thats an old smoker, the big bruisers are at or above the 180HP/L mark. If you want to chance it use car oil, in an old shed i prob would too but think on this, my old 600 had 30K when i sold it. I did 29K of those on fully synth bike oil changed every 3K and never needed ANY of the reccomended part/service replacements. The bike is approaching 40K now with its current owner, still with good oil as i won't fit anything else (i do the servicing). It has the original timing chain and clutch, and has needed only a couple of new shims. With the fact the bike was tuned in my ownership and is making 15hp more than stock is even more impressive, in 2001 i lapped the TT in under 30mins (god knows how the racers do it in 20) so it was used properly. fin

Be a lot more humerous if the halfwit could spell.

And did you fit a new C/S set when you rebuilt the bike?