Cynic

Ah ha ha ha ha ha ha. Sorry i suffer with sarcasm, to early.....? No matter. Must be due to the lack of an introduction. Tut tut. Short answer no. The only new stuff now is direct replacement unless you keep a permanant watch on ebay. (thanks again paul). Search the forum. Different people try different things. I have had mine over 20 years and tried most of it and ended up back with a basically standard (ish) bike. 65mph is about it. The engines suffer when tuned. They generate a hot spot in the exhaust port area that overheats the piston and pop. The later liquid cooled lc engines have a speciall water gallery specifically to sort that. Welcome. Dont forget the intro...

You need a new wps.

This thread is aincient. Start fresh with an intro in the new members area. You will get better results that way. Email addresses in open forum are at best open to spam. Inbox full of animal farm may upset the missus. Use the pm (private message ) option instead. Much safer. Welcome to the forum. I will lock this one so you can start fresh. Saves confusion.

Selick Waterfall sandwich for the first post question....

So my airbox is what you lot are dreaming of... And the reason the 1980 on uk mx goes like shit off a stick. Making a shitload of noise inthe process. Leave the lid off and your ears hurt. Even wuth a full face lid. Neighbours love me at 4am.........hey ho she's legal.... http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175h-1981_model8795/partslist/A-11.html

60 a gallon is 14 a litre. I was refering to a us gallon. Rock synthesis4 weighs in at over well30 quid a pop for 4l. Anything here worth using in the uk is over 20. Changing it out every 3k IS over the top unless your really pushing things. As i said 30k with no detectable wear dropping the oil And filter at or before 6k.

So it was jumping out of gear. Not slipping......?

Yes a nice mot man might make it an advise.

Cheap?!! check the specs first. I said quality oil in your money the stuff i used was costing close to 60 bucks a gallon. I put 30000 pluss miles on a 600 suzuki using that oil and it needed nothing. In those 30k all she needed was 4 shims. No timing chain. Adjusters nowt. And i rode it hard. I made the qualifying time for the isle of man in 2001 on open roads. Cheap is a relative word. I would not let my bike run on oil costing a tenner a go. Yuk. 2stroke is dearer in the uk.

Affect economy and performance........ My old 600 did 120 ish. 170miles to a tank and ran ok. Proffesionally fitted dynojet kit, full system, k+n etc and it did 150mph and 110 miles per tank and went like sh off a stick. Fitted well by someone who knows how, ideally on a dyno like mine was and it will be superb as the bike will make the performance it was ment to without compromise on economy and noise etc. Done diy? Throw a die and keep em crossed.

For me the 3000mile oil change is a bit ott if your using quality oil and not a track nut. You can safely double that in my exp. For me a full strip and re assemble of the susp linkage once in autum then again in spring for me is a biggy. Not squirt some grease in. Actually pull it apart. It will make a huge difference to a year round bike. Even the dt.

Well said. Couldn't agree more....

Do you not think its going a touch too far. Stock jetting with maybe a clip up or down is it. These engines were never ment for wot. They are low rpm tree pluggers. Town centre traffic killers. These bikes on fast roads is like a morris minor (google ) at the nurburg ring. 2 rules for a dt. No wot and use the oil warning light as max cruise rpm. Thats about 55 on mine (i think). Done me for the last 25 years.

No i am in the same boat. They are the nasty restrictive airboxes that only lasted 12 months. Can see why now. I have a more traditional airbox and tbh it hasnt had a filter of any kind for years. Ooops ha ha.

Oh american. Cant see a location on the mobile forum.....Alex?

Its a throwback to the past now redundant save for parking. Unfortunately its an mot must have so you need to fix it. Only exception are some imports that dont have them. Jap imports for example.

Intro intro intro. Its accepted practice on here to say hi in the new members area before asking questions. Personally it sounds like it has problems more than restrictions.

I thought these bikes used points. Makes it a doddle to do.

An intro would help no end. People dont generally reply to 1st post questions...... Drop into the new members area and say hi.

I thought that untill i had 2 pistons on the bench for comparispon. The yam piston is a LOT lighter and has been through far more machining. The ports are trimmed etc. I would imagine they are made from a better quality alloy too. They really are just a better product. I have used both. They both work but going from one to the other is deffinitely noticable.

Looks like you just need a top up then. Maybe it was a little low from the off. Not low but not full either if you get my drift.

Generally noticing the level drop is an indication of pad wear as more fluid is needed to fill the piston to push it onto the disk. The whole ppint of the resivoir really. That is the most likely. Whats your mileage. If your front heavy with your braking you could have some worn front pads.

Are you aware that he fluid will move back and forth in the resivoir while accelerating and braking. It why there is a minimum level checked when the bike is static. To be sure air cannot enter the system. The overnight drop could be thermal related too as it was bloody cold first thing. 4 degrees i think.

Believe it. I leave between 3 and 4am for work on a Dt175 stock 6v headlight. It is generally up to it but come the fog and drissle of nov and the really black dark of january feb ill be cursing it.

They want to call it an mx because it is an mx. The mx indicates the single shock rear suspention. Does your engine frame numbers start 2A8?