Cynic

Drooooling.......... A lot of tdr's look nasty with stuck on stuff but that is really nice,even fewer look right with underslung pipes. Looks familiar too. Cost much? Got to be 2k+ at least....

Winter/snow tyres. The main difference is the compound. They will give high grip in poor conditions with no warm up. But grip in hot dry conditions will be worse. They generally have a more aggressive tread pattern but thats more for show. That said i have ridden my dt in everything from -12 to 29 degrees and appropriate speed and observation is more important if you ask me.

Mine got put to bed at the start of october, red mist and slick roads is not fun. Folks on the TDR forum ride em all year though......... nutters.

Moving it clockwise will have advanced the timing, ie the spark is earlier in the piston stroke. The spark generally starts at or slightly before TDC, (rmember just how fast shit happens in an engine running at say 6000rpm, 6000 burns per minute or 100 burns a second) as the combustion 'the burn' is just starting as the piston reaches tdc and fully compresses the now expanding mix, this means that the expansion is putting pressure on the piston as soon as possible. When the piston moves faster with the rising revs the point at which the spark is supplies needs to be earlier, this is because the engine parts are moving faster but the burn will take the same amount of time. So without advance the energy is wasted as the burn will be chasing the piston down the bore wasting its power. A side effect, if the advance is a little too high (were not talking much) the fuel will burn with a bigger bang. 'Great i hear you cry', not quite that uncontrolled burn will give more power but you will also be allowing it to burn hotter. This will destroy the piston ultimately. Possibly melting the crown or siezing, maybe both but it will die. The opposite is true at lower rpm as the spark needs to happen later or the piston will come up against resistance as it reaches the top of the stroke, its what causes pinking as the burn slows the piston causing the skirt to hit the bore because it cannot 'float'. Short answer, yes you will get more power but the question of for how long is more important.....

Got to be honest i would think clutch drag is a more likely problem than being able to notice any horsepower loss.

Er. I have never bothered with bike battery chargers. Just used the car one on the rare occations i had too. When the only starting option is the button and nomally having to deconstuct the bike to get at it i would replace it if a quick blast didn't bring it back to health. Dont matter on the dt. Not so much on the tdr either. It dont do much. I dont get the cap bussiness though. Batteries give off gas when you use em too. So it should make no difference. It is hydrogen gas though....

They are not affected by heat as much in the extreem. This affects there friction at cooler temps. Try dragging the brake a little ,just enough to heat the disk and then try your brakes. Bit of a duffer for a dirt bike if you ask me. More for road rockets....

Im in london most days and everything above is just a day in the life. They are all so obsessed with losing 2 seconds they will risk it all. I am including bikes in this. They are the worst offeders in many cases. High and mighty we might like but the fact is that the current generation of 20/30 somethings in the main have been brought up in a system that blames somebody else. Saw an accident today,car verses truck. Car went for a gap that wasn't there on the blind side of a truck. You can guess the result. Who was it swearing though......not the hgv. Guess who couldnt speka da lingo when the plod turned up. Sat there for nearly an hour thanks to that impatient twat.

It just takes the tension from the chain so the lobes will not be in quite the right place to set the clearances. One more go turning it the right way will sort it. If it makes you feel any better its always better for the gap to be slightly too big than tight.

But your 'special' (said v slowly), kev.

I'd sooner sweat than freeze. Few years ago i was riding to market harborough for work (round trip 50 odd miles) it was minus 7 or so. There were people with nothing more than office clothing driving the same route. People stuck on ice or snow with nothing to help themselves with. I would have been fine with my winter riding kit. Its as if everybody is ignorant of the fact that the world we live in is dangerous. Year round motorcyclists are the ray mears of the roads these days. Ps teach you to carry a spare plug. Anybody brought up on old strokers wont leave the house without one.

Ceramic pads are a lot more fade resistant. The trade off is they are crap till they warm up. Once you adjust your riding styly a little you will be fine.

I have a 25l tub just for old vehicle fluids. Once its 3/4 full i take it to the tip. Everything goes in from chip fat to brake fluid. Chuck it into the engine oil drum at the community tip. Bring said 25l tub home and repeat.

First post questions dont get a good response generally. Sounds to me like the ig adv is not opperating properly. Pop an introduction in the new members area and plenty of folk will help. The late 70's early 80's bikes are very popular on here. Plenty ofowners. I have had mine for 25years.

Short answer no. It is not a 2minute thing to add. Takes a day or 2 to make a half decent job of it with the tank off and stripped. Have you checked the very bottom of the tank underneath. Try to imagine where water may rest inside as modern petrol is quite wet. You end up with high concentrations of acidic water in the fuel at the very bottom if the bike stands. That may well be where the leaky bits are. My TDR250 tank leaked there. I have treated the tank and repaired the paint. They were only tiny pinholes.

The real question is why is the petseal in there? Are you sure the tank is good?

No blue printing will make a big difference if the entire motor is done. Making sure every single part is as per the engine builders design re balance etc. Bluw printing a 2 stoke barrel dont make me laugh. Call stan stephens and see what he says to it. After he stopps laughing. I have some elbow grease i could let you have cheap.

Sorry but cheap spokes is something i just could not live with. Just thinking about the mess if a wheel fails is just...................

You need to check the adjuster at the gearbox, you may need to open her up though. YZ clutches are intended for life on a motocross track which we all know is a long way from town traffic. Slipping it may have warped the metal plates, they only need to warp by .1mm and you will have drag.

I would be doing it now, cost nothing to get a set of gaskets, some circlips and a little end bearing. The rattle could be rings, little end, even carbon on the piston crown. It could be a cheap fix, just an hour or 2 and some scrubbing. Leave it making an obvious rattle and it will die, simple as that. That is the biggest difference with strokers. When they are unhappy they die, fast! and normally expensively. The little end could brake up, that will be bore, rings, crank etc. Piston slap? that could sieze at any time again crank etc at risk as well as yourself if on a fast road. Could just be carbon causing hot spots on the piston needing a decoke. Your bike is calling for help, listen.

He obviously 'really' likes the dt. Surely it would be a quicker bike with a blower sat on it.........

Do you not think that if they were not a legal requirement that motorcycle manuf trying to save every gram would put that great plastic thing on that back that we all cut down....

Ethanol is corrosive to brass. It is a known issue on brit bikes that have more brass in the fuel system. Jap stuff is far better as a lot of the carb internals are chromed steel. The needle as an example. It should be easy enough to get a new set of jets though. Even out there. The job lot could go in an envelope.

I would still replace that battery. A healthy voltage is 13.4 it is obviously suffered from the experience.

Not that easy... Carbs are a dynamic thing. The carb balance has to be set just off idle. That way the vacume in the inlets is enough to lift the slide and Have the carb in its working range. Because all the cylinders will be subtley different in the vac they generate You will need to ajust each carb to work on a different level of vacume but give the same performance. Because of that its impossible to do on the bench. Most bikes will balance 2 to 2. That means match 1 and 2. Then match 3 and 4. Then match both pairs together. A basic set of useable gagues dont cost much. Certainly not enough to worry about using a shitload of hose. You will see a big difference in the bike though.