Cynic

Price you pay for the big bore. Just keep the revs higher. I'm surprised you can ride at that rpm. Even my dt175 gets the arse at 1500rpm its barely over idle. The TDR would sooner foul plugs than run under3. If its something you really must fix a good carb balance should fix it. By that i mean done really accurately as at that rpm the carbs are barely open. That is the most likely cause of the flat spot.

Don't know about the yam but i had a full stage 3 tune on a suzuki 600. Cams, vernier gears, filter with a full 4 to 2 to 1 race pipe (not a 4 into1 thats nasty) with the limiter lifred and a full dynojet kit. The dynojet had different jets for the carbs depending on it being an inner or outer cyl. That had 32 dyno runs all told to get right all done by TTS.(SUPERB PEOPLE) Below 5 was a waste of time from 5 it was smooth as glass and from 8 it fked off like it was shot from a cannon. I would stay over 2k rpm. Why are you riding it that low anyway? Its doing the bike no good at all.

Ok one pair of overtrousers ordered. Paypal at 19.25 on the 8th December. Lets see what happens.

Hmmm. No comments good bad or otherwise. Normall negative tripe is all there is on the interweb. Think i might risk it and take a punt. At the end of the day..... Positives. Water resistant shall we say. Armoured Abrasion resistance Can be worn over or as trousers Full length zip down each leg and velcro waist mean easy on or off. Have high viz panels Negatives Made by frank thomas. That could mean great or naff and its a crap shoot as to which......

My rst jacket is no saint when it comes to leaks but it does well enough unless it really chucks it down. Its the easy on and off that has me interested as the leg zips go the entire length of the leg. Not just a bit at the bottom for your feet. If there are any others like it bring em on as mine are about fubard and getting em on and off every morning makes a big difference in a freezing toilet at 430.

anybody used these Frank Thomas dri viz over trousers. Mine are disintergrating and these look like a good replacement. http://www.jsaccessories.co.uk/viz005-dri-viz-over-trouser-black-fluoro.html The main point being the leg zips meaning i dont have to freeze in the warehouse bogs getting changed. As instead of swapping from leggings to trousers i will be able to wear my work stuff underneath. And js are doing last years for under 60 notes.... Are they good/bad?

Beat me to it nev. The sm look needs slick looking tyres same as a supersports bike which are frankly crap in the real world.

Lol that bike may possibly go that fast with a lot of expensive quality tuning. Race prepared 125 can hit 130mph. I wouldn't want to ride it on a road or maintain it. Unless you have a feww hundred quid to waste you want to learn an awful lot awful fast or the only thing that engine will do is go bang. Oh and coppers aint that stupid. A 50 doing 50 gets them having a batfit (been there) god knows what 80 would get you. I'd pack some vaseline.... .

Bogs out.... Not a whole lot of good that. What are the plugs like after she cuts. Will she re start. Has it ever run ok. Have you been into the motor. Rebored? Lastly is she twin or single carb..... Their gristle not crystal. Bit more info would be a big help.

How did she go down and what damage was there.

I would say a proper on off road tyre would be better. On sice etc its more to do with the material the tyre is made from. Confusingly good wet/cold tyres have more silicome in them. Propper knoblies are designed for mechanical grip and will put less rubber down and TBH feel fkin horrible. Proper trail tyres are what i would offer. I have yet to better Bridgestone's trail wing. I have used everything from road rubber to full mud tyres (have had the bike 25yrs) and they are a pretty good average. Last well and give grip most times. Have ridden the Ridgeway on em more than once. And more than enough winters.

If it makes you more at ease as far as ice is cocerned. On more than one occation i have ridden to work. Freezing cold. Pull up in car park and nearly fall on my arse as i get off because you can barely stand because its iced up. Makes me wonder how the tyres do it,reasuring though....

How much riding has he done in winter. Hose it down in freezing conditions. First how. Second how much of your bike will be iced up and lastly the big icy patch you leave may well cause more greif and brokens. Its a nice idea. Usefull in november to combat the slime but the spray will be better. Then wash it properly as a quick rinse wont shift dried on salt.

The dt runs all year. As to riding in the conditions. Whats changed. Roads have ice intead of gravel to catch you. Rain is no worse now than in summer, prolly easier cos it washes that layer of slimey shit off that builds up in the winter on the roads. People still drive like dicks. Just keep em peeled for hazards and be smooooth. You will of course be in that small group next spring laughing at the wobblers coming out of hibernation. And not forgetting nothing shuts the power rangers up quicker than a year round motorcyclist

Irony Paul. Don't intro's usualy come first....

Me too. Does upset folk when they are stumped by less than a foot of water. And you ride round them. Deepest so far was nearly 18in but fk me when the water clears away the tarmac is slippy.

Been a very busy day..... They dont use LEADED fuel......

Woah. .... Cpuple of questions first.... The only smoke is at high rpm? How does it run and ride Is it using or contaminating the gearbox oil How does it start Does it need choke You may just be burning crap out of the pipe where it hasnt been used. First few times i gave my TDR a proper spanking it looked like a red arrow.

Got to say crappy intro but points for cheek. Intro should really be first. Where are you, any bike knowledge..........?

Was this not the same as that fellow who thought he had something special a while back.... Wonder if the japs raided the parts bin for the convicts

Japan has never used unleaded fuel. Not a problem

It was a gimmick at the time. More mid range, resonance da da da. Doubt you will notice anything. They only did it on the divvy so cant say it caught on eh.

Its a stupid idea... The insurance will tear you apart unless the work is approved by an engineer. The brakes, wheels etc will all need upgrading to cope. For what you will spend just buy another bike.

Wipe off the worst of the crud and oil it with proper chain oil weekly. Once a month more if the weather is really shocking like the other year. whip the chain off and clean it proper in a big tin then soak it with new chain lube and let it soak. My commute is 7 miles each way on shitty country roads with similar horsepower and my chain is 3 years old.

Ewww they are still mains electrical fittings and will still suffer.