Cynic

I still think its worth looking at. The dt175 isnt a screamer and the rxs has better manners and brakes than a dt. That would be a joy to ride. 16hp with the sweet spot at 7000rpm. No hill too high. Aim for top wack flat stick of 75 to 80mph and you would have a cracker. Play with your old motor a bit. Bet most of the bits you can get cheap on here. Be better than a worked 100. All that torqe.

C'mon shambles you know you want to....... http://www.yammy100.com/post85.html Lookie lookie. Go on.... Rxs175.......devil on your shoulder is hinting.......

The important comparisons are window size and height. Primarily the height of the top edge. And whats known as the deck heights. This is the point that the piston stops at the top and bottom of the stroke. Finally the length of the piston. You dont want it hitting the crank at the bottom of the stroke. The actual diameter of the piston in the rs barrel matters not a lot. I think its ok. I recall a few 100's becoming 125's on the quiet. The rs came as a 125...and a 100cc. Big and i mean kin normous insurance difference between the 2 in the 80's so the 125 died.

Castor, mineral and synthetic. They are the base material of the oil. Castor wont mix with anything. Mineral and synthetic will mix in most cases. If they react it forms a gooey mix and sticks and blocks up the system. Not good.

If there is a plan forming let me know. I dont think the money machine has caught up with the manx gp yet.

Keep your options open. I have seen dt125/75 mentioned at the same time re gaskets. Only thing you might need a matching head or it may look a bit wierd. Did that with my dt 50. An mx big bore with an m head. Wierd but worked well.lol

Yep. Plain ol gravity. These bikes work best using a big K.I.S.S Keep It Simple Stupid Worked for me for 25 years..

I have a. 25 piston and the bore although not scored has blued in places. A bore with a new piston and rings will be no bad thing. Will be looking at that temp gague though....

Nope nothing 50mph coming home from work same as any number other times. Just cut out. Thought it was fuel first.

Here you go.. Could have been worse. Looks like the swarf has stayed away from the bearings. Gut feeling says change the bearings and i'm not going to argue with it. The sounds like scrunchy bearing turns out to be swarf stuck between the crank and cases. Now the crank is out i can give it a proper rinse. The crank seals will go. Too important to risk for the time and money to change them. So order the bits and reassemble. Should be good for the weekend providing i can get the rebore done. 70hr weeks are a bitch.

Huh. Twinshock ran till 83? The prefix 1n1 is for a twinshock dt...

Apart from paint and stickers it didnt change from feb 76 to oct 83. Its a dt100 simples.

Several people have now pointed out the Ethanol problem. Looking like that may have been another nail in the coffin. If you run a 2stroke. Kicking the main up a size could save you some pain.

Steve those roses tins are worth their weight in roses. Ever needed stackable metal containers for parts. Did you not see the engine is sitting in a turkey baster. Reuse recycle. Or from my point of view. Squeze every advantage. More money for the bike. My touring rack for the tdr is 3 pieces of 1 1/4 by 1/2 inch timber. On a more serious line i will have a better line on the big end when the cranks out.

Still a must do for any motorcyclist. Riding the circuit is a bit like having 5 a side at wembly but its just something you need to do to realise just how nuts those racers are. I made the qually time on my ol 600 and rode out of my skin to do it. A 28min lap lol. Hardly impressive. Roads were open though, thats my excuse.

Actually its been an easy strip. I have a clutch tool. All the bolts are allen stainless. So no chocolate posidrives. I considered cleaning out and re using the mains but they sound horrid. One good thing. That piston you pointed out on the bay long time back will come in handy...

Doh. Never figured someone changing out 2stroke. Jus use it first eh.

Under the motor will be a big bolt. Big enough to be obvious. 17mm i think. Put a container under it that can hold a gallon or so and remove it. When the oil stops coming out replace the bolt and fill via the filler hole behind the kicker. It says on the casing how much but add a little less and check the level as you never get it all out.

Well figured i'd go through this on here as it might help others see how problem solving goes. First up the surgery. With bike on my front paddock stand i made a start. Thing is an engine failing can have many causes. Rushing will make fixing much harder. A steady approach checking as you go is needed. As such i checked around the motor first. Head gasket good, base gasket good, ah... Bottom of the reed block is damp. The damp was coming from the carb rubber. The rubber has lost its shape and the jubilee clip was weak. These together caused a carb leak that leaned her out causing this.... And... You can see the swarf across the cases. The odd bit is the sheer size of the hole. I said the bike has done a couple of plugs and poor starting. The weak mix will have caused the poor starting and the dissintergrating piston will have fouled the plug. The inside of the exhaust is silver ffs. There is even swarf in the carb. The mains sound a bit ify. The big end seems good. The little end though is toast. So for reliability sakes new crank seals and bearings will go in. At the minute i have just the gear selector mech to remove then i can split the cases.

Ok got into it today and its bad news.. Total piston failure. A 3/4 inch hole in the top. Swarf everywhere. Some big lumps too. Inlet rubber looks to be the villan. The bottom of the reed block was damp on dissasembly. The rubber its self is not round either. I will put pics up later. Looks like crank out to fix it though.

Discs do wear and certainly dont last a lifetime. Following main stealer specs their fkt after 1mm. In truth they last long past that. Maybe 3 or 4 setz of pads. Depends on you riding style.

Sucks. They had to draw a line in the sand somewhere. That wr450 is hardly a learner machine. Either is it, If your honest.

People normally a couple of easy mistakes balancing their own carbs. Firstly the bike needs to be at normal temp. Make sure the gagues are ready to go. If its the first time with the gagues put each on one cylinder. Number1 for example. Then you can adjust the dials so they are all set together. Then you can trust their results. There should be small valves on the hoses to the carbs. These need to be shut on start up or the gagues will be damaged. The engine needs to be at around 1800rpm too. Dont wind it up on the idle screws you need to use the twist grip so the carbs open on the diaphram. Second person is very usefull. Lastly as steve said. Balance 1 and 2. Then 3 and 4. Finally balance both pairs.

Then have another jar. Have a fag jar in the garage.

Oh god no. Specialist auction. Try one of the classic bike mags or contact the VJMC (vintage japaneese motorcycle club) for proper advice.