Cynic

Nah. Go from a 6 to a 9 and it will get more of a problem. But still only how it starts and throttle response etc.

Its just the temperature range of the plug. Heat causes resistance that causes heat etc. The resistance reduces the spark energy. The 6 plug will run fine but will be ideal at the city stuff and give easier starting. The 7 may cause a little harder starting but should give a cleaner burn on higher speed stuff. Thats the theory. To be honest, i doubt you will notice. Certainly wont harm the bike.

Im there whatever. Not sure which bike yet. Having to refuel every 50 mile makes things tricky. See at the time. Be an adventure i suppose on the dt.

Oh.... This grey brown gunk. Not rusty oily water? You really need to pull the pot and see where the 'gunk' is coming from and confirm what it is. Have you checked the water and gearbox oil.

Phwoah think you dropped '1' Lol

Moved from forum help. Pre 81 numbers are not vin numbers in the modern sence. The 3h4 will be a model code. Be it dt125.. XS 400 whatever. The number will be where it is in production. Thing with the numbers is they start and stop at specific points. 1st gen will run 0001010 to 0001900 doesent mean there were 900 odd bikes they just allowed that many numbers. That is what generally id's the year. If your after paint codes engine size etc the number cant give you it.

No grouch its being collected for shipping on monday. It could take 6 to 8 weeks to get here. Longer even...

Bacon?.....Red sauce?......or Brown.....?

Well done those intermitant faults are the worst.

Sorry....CSI If you mean cdi are you certain its dead. I thought they were stronger than flight recorders. Mine has certainly been through it. Annoyingly the coils in the mag die a slow death and as they supply the cdi with electric, the spark timing AND the power for the ig coil they can make a good cdi look dead. Have you checked the mag and or wiring......?

Huh..... There's one on ebay now. Item 121102744537

Cant speak for the 8 but the nasty fi on the fz1 is not new. Power commander dials it right back to sensible. Bit cheeky to buy parts to make a new bike work though. Go on cupcake join us on the dark side..... Go classic. You know you want to.. Late 80's. Fz Rd pick your poison.... Lot less bother with seat heights.

I only ment the colour. Im more of a stealth man myself. Looks stock but very much isnt, thats me. I totally get the "do it cos they said i cant" line. I had a v8 auto 1962 land rover. Power steering and range rover axles on leaf springs. Built it myself for competition. That wasnt possible either. Heh.

Not to my taste but then its not my bike. I like the process and the exececution. Looks superb. What about a custom JL pipe. Highly regarded for tdr/tzr stuff. Certainly get the best from the engine.

What colour for the bodywork......

Nope.... You can use the later cdi if you change the mag to match. All swaps straight over.

Well the engine should be 150 tops baring disasterous discoveries. That is providing your crank is good with all gaskets and bearings replaced. With genuine yam parts too. Thats including a piston and rebore too. Frame prep....... Wire brush and a powerdrill. Tin of hammerite bare metal primer then 2 cans of smooth black on a nice dry day. Job done for 20 quid. Then you have money for the parts your missing and the paint job. Consumables are as needed but yambits and wemoto are good as well as T Y Trials for engine spares. DONT hack off the wiring loom. Or any more than it is. There are wires in it that are not shown on the diagrams. Keep as complete as you can. Lay it out on a pin board for your sparky mate to copy. Keep us posted.....

Very unlikely on here. Not a racing community. You have gone from curiosity to sales. I would reccomend putting a proper intro in the new members section. Then if you do want to sell please use the for sale part of the forum. Any other sales will be edited im afraid.

ewwwwww ran out of duty time earlier than i though and had to pull in for a break on the way back to the yard. Odd me thinks. Lot of cars. Then the penny drops. Its one of THOSE lay bys. 17:42 the second that shows on my taco im gone........

Think is no good. Should have the size on the box. You dont mention the make either. The 1KT off the top of my head is a jap TDR250 pre nicosil motor. Those 250 motors are too expensive to fix on the cheap. You need to be certain of all the parts otherwise you really are throwing hundreds away to save 10. Esp now their older. It is only an extra 15 or 20 quid to rebuild a dt with all gen NOS parts. A pair of mitaka's first oversize would be different. Never know though plenty of mugs out there.

Yep. Should say how much around there on the cases too.

Totally pure mx. To the point the local oiks drool as i pass them. Like a rifle crack when its cold. Really badly needs gearing up though. Oh and the strangest thing. I have had to move the needle clip to the very top for it to run right. Changing the main and increacing the needle dont work. It wants the 160 or maybe bigger as a main but much leaner mid range or she 4strokes till she wets the plug.

Done diy. Maybe 30 to 40quid changing all fluids if you have a manual. New plug, airfilter. Etc. That will leave you with spare fliuds for the next service. Prob 100quid at a garage.

Got a question. When riding your bike where is the power and what kind of rpm is the engine happy to sustain uphill headwind whatever. I ask cos airhead sold me a replacement for my rotten exhaust. Top man. But im still not sure what its from and the engine (now its rebuilt) runs very different. I have monster. And i mean huge torque between 4 and 7k. To the point i dont need the first 2 gears unless i stop. The last bit of rpm is a bit of a dead duck except for short bursts as the engine gets mad hot. 7k on my dt gives an indicated 50. No idea what speed it really is and it will do it uphill into the wind whatever. Rarely need to change down. Stock gearing too. I will put some pics up. Maybe someone can id it. No one can tell me so far. Its def not gianneli (had 2 of those) fresco maybe? No matter. Suns out...... ...

Uh? Just to clarify. Do you need to use choke to actually start the bike? Then once its running you take the choke off and she idles ok. If a little uncertain till she warms up. If thats the case it sounds about right. Choke on a 2 stroke is really just to get it running.