Cynic

So back to the turbo again, and nos, and 240 rear. Hell of a bike, shame it looks like its been melted.

Yeah just turning in now, had easy day for once... got to be up at 5

That wont work, Foamy's coming so Kev will turn us both down if we rode up in Limo's.

Andy nicked it from me last year, I was the furthest travelled 2STROKE they gave it to a 4 stroke at a 2STROKE rally. Not bitter.....

Yeah I know, thankfully I have the pukka Yamaha TDR 250 workshop manual listing all the parts. That lists the oil seal and circlip as service items. Off the shelf stuff surprisingly, already on their way from PJME, (well I ordered them tonight). Just glad it was warm and dry on the ride home, could have got complicated. Especially turning left. Gulp..

Damn output shaft oil seal has let go.... Damn thing, oil on my boots, my waterproofs the rear wheel. bodywork, right bloody mess, pressurised gearbox feed. Only good bit is ham have conveniently made it easy to change (so it must fail pretty regular) as the seal is held in with a circlip. Just got to track a new seal down. Hopefully off the shelf item.

It wont if the valve in the carb is shut, did you set the float heigh, if you did how and what to?

Never heard of a TDR250. 2gal to reserve. Capable of 25mpg. With a seat that cuts you in half and the exhaust pipes running litterally inches from your meat and potatoes. Gets bit sweaty in traffic....

That's why you get the sunny sunday riders...... min 20deg and 0 chance of rain they emerge,

The longer you wait the worse it will be. 25years ago (oh fuk) my test was 20mins of follow my leader and a couple of questions. After passing pt1 which was easy. Lot worse now and wont improve.

Can give you a pefect exmple. I found oil near the front of the engine whilst cleaning the bike. There was also a damp gasket (so it looked) on the rh cyl. After id washed the bike mentally counting the cost of a top end service.... gulp. I had another look, the oil pump feed pipe (that runs between the exhausts above the motor) had baked hard and was weeping oil. With little effort it broke off, was prepared with a plug. That could have failed at any time siezing the motor and covering my back wheel/tyre in 2stroke. You have to constantly check your bike....

It will need jetting but by how much...? Dts are sensitive to lean mixture and constant full throttle so stay on the rich side. Its also why pod filters are not generally used on them as pods only work well at full throttle.

welcome to the forum, 100+ bhp at the rear wheel. Why? Thundercat engine is superb at what it does. What the cat needs is suspention and brakes to stretch the engine more. Clean her up, check the gearbox VERY carefully as if it jumps out of second you have another money pit. Then a shock and fork rebuild will give you a very competant bike.

Did you not set it when you built the engine up. It is set staticly then checked with the strobe.

Yep pilot jet. Yep run like a sack of spanners on an open carb. Piece of plastic pipe straight on the carb, 6 to 8 inches long with the pod filter on the end should do ok. Got a bit of volume (internal space not noise) and not too many reflection problems.

Introduction in new members area?

Ex proddie race bike, they keep the bodywork safe, use some lightweight race stuff then when the bike is all wore out they put the original bodywork back. Bit of spit and polish and sell their 'low mileage minter' to some poor sap, in this case me.

If the lh crank bearing has gone none of the crank seals will work properly. If you can actually feel the movement they are completely shot and im surprised it runs properly. Unless you replace the bearings your wasting you time changing seals....

Motorcycle engine oil will be fine in the gearbox?? Yes that plug works as well as any other with a resisted plug (4k) cap. On a new motor you might want a couple of spares. Test them on something first if you can or use the plug that was last in the bike. Too often I have been looking for problems because of a dud new plug.

Oh yes, thank you, thank you. Oh a proper introduction in the proper place, you are very welcome mate. Few Scotts on here, (watch out for Blackhat250) he always gets lost.

Moved, you need to post an introduction in the new members area.

Ok, firstly you should post an intro in the new members area to say high. Lot of people wont answer people who don't. We figure its better than lots of rules on when and what new people can do. After you have done that you can elaborate on your problem, as in where the oil is coming from on the LH case. Crank seal, output shaft. Gearbox oil from the crank seal is unlikely as it would smoke like a 70's disco. What have you actually changed etc. If that LH seal goes the generally rev till they pop.

An 83ypvs, I had one of those. Whoowie was I glad when it got nicked. Money pit of the highest order. If I knew then what I know now........... Ace when it worked...... All I will say is the sump plug had a little hole drilled in it, mint bodywork though......

No problem, taking out the bleed screw on the pump and let gravity pull the oil through to prime the pump. The engine would be ok to start with the assembly oil. Then prime with the engine running. Different people use either, both work. As to ignition, the lines you mention. Are they marks you made during dissasembly. If so you will be fine. Dts are holing pistons because of modern fuel. The ethanol in the fuel releases oxygen during combustion, (among other negatives) that leans out the mixture. I sufferd the same failure. The safest method for now is stay 1000 rpm under the red line unless its a short blip. I dont know of any other method of allowing for it as yet. Save for using ethanol free fuel.

Ha ha, hardly chewed out. Hmmm, not many people on a motorcycle forum on a warm sunny weekend. How odd,