Cynic

Wait till you have a flock of pigeons take flight from a field. Had that in my truck once, they flew at a diagonal and saw the glass as a way through. Like something from Hitchcock. Must have killed/stunned a dozen or more of them hitting the windscreen and passenger window.

Ewww. You wasted that. You should have hung it for a few weeks. Maybe a month. Now that would have been good.

They always are. Think they sort of settle in, you may find a dab of threadlock on the bolts. They are made of cheese though so carefull. As to the friction plates. Yeah why not if there marked at 120deg. As to the filing. Can do it but dont get carried away or you will cause judder from the amount of freeplay. Just take the highspots down would be better.

Crank intake or barrel intake. Other than that they are the same pretty much. I would be surprised if any dt/tzr barrel of comparable age (intake excepted) wouldn't fit.

Congratulations Houston. "The ego has landed"

The clutch spring bolts of the top of my head are something like 5lb torque as said. Be worth taking a pic b4 removing the plates so you can be sure on the order. The metal plates will have a flat, or maybe a lug of somesort so you can load the plates 120 deg apart for balance. Lastly. Dont lose the little ballbearing. It can come out with the pushrod.

Near enough. So long as the volts hit about 14 quickly and stop your golden.

With the engine running put the meter across the battery. Then take the revs up to 6 or 7k. Simple. Should stop at 14 and a bit. Dont know the exact number. If there is a problem it will likely hit 20+

Fair point. But start at number 1. So many times electrical problems cause greif because people try and cherry pick the fixes. So start with the battery. And the generator output, should be less than 14v or therabouts at 6k rpm

Fixed

You may wish you hadnt. Your engine is very different power wise to the 90's rocket ships. Your engine makes its power without any major restriction. The old engines were good for 25hp with a pipe some jets and some teenage bogettery. Yours will ride without any oomf. General less allround except for the point where the pinned valve causes a sweet spot. In short. You really need to fix it. That valve controls the fuel mixture in the cyl in a complex 2strokey way and that may damage the upper cyl if it leans off at the wrong revs.

So how does it ride.

If its doing the cleaning cycle then its not that wrong. That tiddly battery will take all the spare juice if its buggered as there is not much spare when the lights are on. That will make the pv motor turn slow, get out of sync then stop. To protect its self. My tdr did some right wierd stuff when my battery went.

You have checked your battery. That can cause some wierd pv operation. Yes that is the pulley box. If your saying the pv moves freely why did you say its stuck. You have said you have opened it already? Sounds more like the motor/cables under the tank. Or electrical. Why do you keep refering to removing the head and barrel?

Nope. Take it out clean it and put it back with new o rings. It will be choked with carbon which doesent come off easy. When it does it will have worn your seals. Its not too drastic. Exhaust off. Tank off and a handfull of nuts/allen bolts to remove. It rarely siezes though. Check your battery, the fuses and the cables/pulley boxes before starting on the pv.

Hah riding home last night there is a dip on the a5 that acts like a wind funnel blew me clean across the road. Anything coming the other way I would have been a bonnet ornament.

If the clutch has been slipping badly the metal plates may be warped. Check them on a piece of glass with feeler gagues.

HNY all. Had a bottle of 15yr old port earlier. Wonder wher it gone..

My Lc wouldn't start on the sidestand, my TDR is reluctant to as well. Yammy twins are a bit fussy when cold and when the bike is on the stand the fuel in the floats is messed up because of the angles. With no vac to draw the tap open and feed more she wont start. Easy fix, start it properly. Starting them on the stand means your already falling over if it goes wrong and its too late to stop. Don't ask how I know

Have you actually had the engine up to proper operating temps. 2strokes are really bad from cold esp if there is a lot of oil and fuel sloshing around from a lot of bad starting. One tip that can help. Warm the head with a heatgun. Till its too hot to touch. Same with the plug (blowlamp for that one). Get the plug in as fast (carefully) as you can and try and start it. The warm head and hot plug will make the fuel oil mix ignite a lot easier.

I think they have a proper regulator. That would be the pop.

Isnt that the 2t oil feed you can see in the background. Fits the other side?

I was that way. Esp on my old suzuki and anything goes on the dt but the TDR is just unfixable. Or omgfkinhowmuchyourobbincnut. Things like the exhausts you just cant get. Im considering some racy ones so i can keep the stock ones safe. Or black chrome them...

WHADAYA MEAN? Bloke DRESSED as santa but..but..!

The lift kit is pretty basic. Some spacers for the bottom of the fork stanchion and another that fits behind the top shock mount on the shock its self. Yes the shock is very strong. Puts modern stuff to shame. If you ride it hard it will wear out but they are tough.