Cynic
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Everything posted by Cynic
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Before you get too carried away check the bottom shock mount on the shock. There are 2 different sizes. 1 fits the round sw arm. 1 fits the square.
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How are you trying to log in. If you used to use a log in name, bob smith etc or using your email address that wont work atm. Try again with mcferria100 and your current password.
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That's what preload is...? Anyho, if you really need it a bodge back in the day was to drill the hole for the top shock bolt further down the frame. Doing it properly would need a couple of washers/spacers welding to the frame to strengthen the holes to take the forces properly. Only needs moving a bit, an inch at most. That will give 2-3in lift. It does lift the rear nicely. Can have a negative effect on chain run, namely the top guide on the sw arm and makes the steering faster, sometimes twitchy.
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Er?
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Tdr stuff is the same as the 400, they are pretty much a straight swap for the blue spots. So you could fit r6 stuff wholesale. MC hoses and calipers. Im 99% for the 600. Do check first though eh.
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TDR man produces them as demand increases, can try them. Google taffmoto. Have you checked Ebay, USA. You can get pattern panels from there.
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Im quoting the manual. If you want to try and get 72deg crack on.
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My TDR is as hard to get parts for and I don't bother with the others now. Fowlers, sometimes I will step outside the box or pistons and the like but its reluctantly and normally causes hassle. As for exhausts, best of luck, consider having one made, esp if looking at new yam exhaust as the cost of a custom replica may well be comparable and you could spec it with better can internals and stainless construction. bodywork, if yours are repairable then go for it. There are people that can strike moulds from the originals, there is one on the TDR forum. If you like I can ask. May take a day or two for a reply.
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Yep those 'blips should be 120 degrees apart, (at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). When you file them smooth finish with a swiss file or wet and dry. If you don't leave them nice and smooth you may as well leave them be.
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Local?
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Idle circuit issues or an air leak, unless the valves are buggered, but them SR's take some killing so air leak/ idle circuit is what I would be looking at.
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Lucky bugger, I was working on our patio. Laying hardcore and ballast. Today I can play and its fkin pi55ing it down
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Airhead has that covered, they haven't stuck together in the glue sense, they have been compressed for too long so the oil is squished out of the friction pads a little bit. There will be a tiny bit of suction as a result when they try to separate as oil wants to go back into the friction plates. Again only a tiny tiny amount. Over the surface area of the clutch and with little movement that tiny amount becomes enough to stick the whole shebang together. Nothing wrong its doing what it does. Just needs using.
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The saga of my DT175MX 1981 rough running over 4500rpm
Cynic replied to eden1's topic in Yamaha Workshop
Right, different cdi's seem to be able to have an effect, but nothing else. The cdi issues are repeatable with the same brand cdi. That says ig problem. Nothing else is affecting the engine. You have swapped most of it. Not got a sneaky red wire peeking out of the loom/cdi somewhere. -
Just take the rh engine cover off. Then the pressure plate. Now separate the plates by hand and it should be fine when you put it back together.
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Spindly spring? Not likely, unless its cream crackerd just wind up the preload (need to take it out to do it) and unless you or your good lady are packing a lot of spare it will be fine.
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Girl....
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You should say hi in the new members area. You will get more replies that way. As for the filter. Waste of time unless you like noise. Not forgetting the airbox holds the battery and is part of the rear mudguard.
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Jesus avoid unless you like pop ups....
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That's cos you live at number 68. Welcome
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I noticed a couple of things with the update. You may (i was) have been logging in with your log in name, or email address. At the moment that will not work. In this update currently you need to use what used to be your display name. ie what is showed to the forum on your posts/threads. In my case cynic. Do not try to use your email address as the instruction suggests, that does not work. Hope this helps. A lot of the issues seem to be clearing up. So normal (sic) service will be back soon.
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My first big bike Yamaha virago / Honda cbr1000 streetfighter
Cynic replied to ojmiddleton's topic in General
Just be careful. Streetfighters never work as well as the original motorcycle. They are built for cosmetic reasons. Riding position. Suspension etc are done for looks. I still feel its a bad move, the insurace headache and mot hassles. For an experienced rider its a bit of rebellion. You wont know good from bad. The headstock wobble, could be bearings, wheel balance, brake warp, bad tyre, unseen damage. Wobbles can hit suddenly too. Ever had a proper tank slapper or know how to stop one? End of the day its your cash and im called cynic for a reason. Just be careful. -
The saga of my DT175MX 1981 rough running over 4500rpm
Cynic replied to eden1's topic in Yamaha Workshop
So what happens with the yam cdi and a little more advance. Go to you max spec limit. -
Yes Im back, someone is fixing something. The password thing didn't have a fit this time. I can log in normally. Outlook is still odd, used my gmail and that worked fine. Didn't get the error messages I got the other night when I tried it. Edit, no more temporary cynic. Now who was it taking the pi55, my mod hammer is rusty.......
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Not keen either, I can only log in by using the forgotten password option. Mobile version seems to need a lot more data, with the old one it would work when most other sites would fail with poor connections. Now YOC is the first to fall over and fail to load.
