Cynic

Neither of the members above have been on for months, the site owner is very sensitive about this kind of information as the forum has had trouble in the past caused by members after copyright material, such as wiring diagrams. Any good workshop manual will have diagrams in it and the manual will be a massive help to any issues you have, second thing I buy after the first tank of fuel. If I haven't blagged one from the previous owner.

You are aware you could cause damage to the fuel injection/ignition system on a modern bike randomly zapping the electrics with a meter. Get the manual first, you will not know whats right or wrong otherwise.

Haynes manual from amazon.. Pick your year job done. Haynes manuals may not be top of the line but they get the job done.

The only place there is any real pressure is the cyl head, the water doesn't run around the engine like a car. It runs through the pump to the head to the rad. If your gearbox oil looks normal it can only be a bad head gasket.

Put it back as it was, ad hoc, itsy bitsy changes to an engine just cause hassle. You have changed the filter, great. Problem is the engine can do nothing with the extra air, so put the old one back on. Also, use the new members area to say hello, people rarely reply to first post questions. Too many are never heard from again.

People are unlikely to lend an ecu, there is no way to know if your bike has a particular issue that fried yours, if it is in fact faulty. That could fry the loaner. You need to find out what the missing 'signal' is. My bet is the pick up signal is not getting through. Its certainly where I would start.

How much oil in there, how old is the chain? Is it lubricated and adjusted properly? A bad chain can do all sorts of silly tricks, that gearbox is the same as the dt and mine has survived 30 years of stupid so it would be what I checked last.

look for a firm called Merlin, make wax cotton jackets same fabric as the old police belstaff jackets. But the fabric is updated with a Kevlar weave and really comfy body armour. Looks good too, like a regular jacket you could wear walking the dog. Mine is the most comfortable jacket I have ever owned, full stop. Not cheap, mine was over 200 quid but so worth it.

I'd say its been fine since 2001 as it is....

Er, you do realise that Yamaha make motorcycles as well as musical instruments. I think you need to search out Yamaha Musical instruments or some such. People on here are more likely to use a piano to stand their engine on than play it. Best of luck with it though.

What I don't understand is why we don't have proper green hybrids, we have our tech limits, they are created by business who need/want to make money. We also have the red tape that visionaries of old like Triscothic or Ford didn't get restricted by. Why we don't have something like the prius but with a small dedicated generator. Say 200cc JUST generating for the batteries. No mechanical wheel connection. Then we have sensible range, the quiet and the eco while still being within our current tech limits. That could be built for a fuck sight less than the current cars. It would work with bikes like gold wings too, small generating unit powering motors, Yamaha had a 4wd Dakar bike with a hydraulic drive to the front that could be electrically pumped, even keep a gearbox to reduce the motor size and draw further. Slightly re boddied Nissan micra, basic micra cost 6k, so an electric motor and some battery tech and some bodywork creating a Leaf is hitting you for 30 odd k ( ffsake the leaf still uses bulbs in its tail lights!!). That's a lot of fuel, like 250000 miles worth of fuel. I will keep my 120000mile 7year old Mondeo thx. Don't forget my car is now in its second lifetime, I'm driving it beyond its design life and you will never convince me that crushing a perfectly good car to buy a new one on 'environmental grounds' is viable. My car may be a little dirtier than the latest cars but its hardly a disaster, comparing mine to a new one the difference is negligible, my engine is still current (with tweaks) in transits . Very different from comparing to the previous generations of cars. Something like Sierra to Mondeo for ex. I'm also saving the environmental cost of making another car. I know a green eco warrior still chugging around in an ancient VW Polo, he states that while this one is running he will keep it as he has saved the planet the cost of 7 or 8 cars for the cost of some emissions which are well below the amount creating its replacements would generate. I also think that cars should be limited like trucks, cap em at say 80mph,( Land Rovers are already capped at 88mph Doc ) no matter what they are with a permission embedded in the (now common ) on board sat nav that can tell when the car is on an autobahn or a race track.

Erm, having overheard some of the team gossip at matches I would edit the hockey element, although any lad that crosses a hockey player is brave indeed.

Sounds like a plan, just remember that at anything other than wide throttle openings the extra wont have any real effect.

It comes up every once in a while, the hole is supposed to be there, probably best described as a deep recess, not so much a hole. Sure there is an engineer type reason. My guess would be extra metal needed behind the crank maybe for an internal bearing brace and they have cast it hollow to save weight/material.

Whats on the engine atm exhaust wise, etc. I would suggest using your current needle and maybe a 250 to start with, the extra 4mm will only show at full chat. The rest of the time you will still be at a partial figure same as you are now. Don't forget you will be increasing the air speed of the charge so costing some torque. Have you worked on the reed block etc to take advantage of the extra air? If it makes any odds I don't think it will make a great deal of difference, my TDR250 goes well enough on 28mm and tuned ones have to be taken a long way before its restrictive. Separate thought, you can get remapped cdi's for tdr250's and I would imagine you could for yours that open the pv later and faster, worth 6hp on a tdr. Apparently makes them more 'aggressive' in the way they make power.

Middle management types spending their bonus. Just people with more money than sense. There is a restored R5 on the bay, mint for 2 and a half. You have to really want the buggerance of the 400, on balance I think the 350 is a better engine. Performance is down to the nut holding the bars.

Nah. If your factoring in rain then you should really be looking at weatherboard. Marine ply would work too.

Your going this far with it and it is great to see. So much better than the " wans mke my dt gu faster" type threads. I would consider rebuilding the gearbox. New bearings (good quality ones) with maybe an undercut on the gears. Then use a good quality fully synth gearbox oil from the go. With that 170 plus the pipe, carb, etc your going to be pushing 30 hp likely more at peak. That will be way past a stock dt gearbox.

First post link......?? I think anybody that clicks that needs to be running a quality antivirus. Try introducing yourself in the new members area.

Saw one with a gs 550 in it. You have to wonder though, would a camper cope any better with a scooter on the side.

Moved, introducing yourself would help. we have no idea if your an expert. The obvious question, were you not concerned that nothing is coming out of said hole.

The clutch is fkt so what does being in gear matter.

They do say daughters are a fathers pennance. Not to mention. When i was a spotty youf trying to find my way (wiv de ladies). Being one of the ' many' more unsucsessful of the breed it is strange that it comes as a surprise when you finally realise that the challenges you face are basically set by the previous generation of lads. Edit. Worded badly but you get the idea.

What is actually stuck? The barrel to the cases? The barrel to the piston? Or is the whole enchilada stuck? If the barrel is stuck try using the engine to do it. You have to check change 90per cent of it anyway. If it will crank you can tap the barrel off after putting something like a trimmed piece of wood in the barrel. Not too snug then pop the head on and crank the kick start. Works like a slide hammer. And no you dont need the clutch just the basket to be in place. Another option is heat. Use a heat gun and get the cases hot then use brake cleaner to chill down the barrel. The thermal shock may help it come away. Dont use a flame as that is all too easy to melt the ally.

Yep I go, not regularly but from time to time, its the only TDR that turns up normally. To be honest the number of 2 strokes you can usually count on one hand.