Cynic

Take a cynical bugger like me to have a look with you. Someone you know will tell you it straight. Its pretty, me? 32000kms is not low mileage and as a 400 revs are everything so there could be cam, cam chain wear. 32k is about changing time for those parts. No laquer on the fairing lowers and what appears to be a stock pipe. Not at 32k. They rot out in under 5 from the inside. Could have been put to one side for a race pipe i suppose. Lastly. With any 'mint' FZR. Check for the drilled caliper and sump bolts, or brand new ones (tthat caught me out on a 350lc long ago). Wouldnt be the first time an old racer has been flogged off as a mint road bike. Buyer beware.

Its 28 years old. Yamaha have a poor rep when it comes to corrotion on any of their sports bikes. Also electrical regulators are not good either. Yamaha plastics are crap too. Fixing lugs snap off or crack. Sure others will have more.

C'mon guys, side stand switch in 1972!! You say 'bogged', (in your non introduction first post, that isn't in the new members area, HINT!). Do you want to expand on that a little, were you at high rpm on a dual carriageway. Low on fuel, low on oil, hot day, long trip, bike cold, did it start easy afterwards, do you live in the mountains or the desert, ( that kind of information could be in an introduction ).

Left my helmet locked to my bike years ago. Came back to find some clever fucker had cracked a raw egg inside. Never again.

Kind of, but its plastic. It will be obvious. Be patient when you bleed it, these rear brakes can be a pain. Esp as yours is dry now.

Behind the rh sidepanel, you can see the brake master cylinder behind the rh heel plate, follow the low pressure line up. Got to say, are you SURE you should be messing with your brakes.

There is something else wrong then, possibly some tracking in the switches or the relay is allowing some power to pass. Do the lights stay lit with the relay disconnected. You may need an electronic one.

Yep, bigger needs more power. Even with led's You only need the resistor for the idiot light, its proven by everything working fine with the idiot light bulb out.

Nope, if just the rear indicators are lit dimly then you have other wiring issues, they only meet at the indicator switch nowhere else. I would suggest an earth issue in the tail. Do you have running/brake light issues too. Your also not reading your meter properly, your testing the potential difference at that point in the circuit not the voltage per se. The 11v constant you can see is the 'potential voltage' at that point, it is not doing anything or going anywhere because either a switch is closed or there is a greater 'potential' stopping it. When its 'flashing' that is when the voltage is doing its work, it is still 11v but now it is 11v ( showing as 0 )doing work going down the line and this will bring on the bulb. It really does help to think of it like pipework. ie The actual indicators proper have big pipes with lots of flow, when this water is flowing the little pipe from the dash hasn't the pressure to get into the party so does nothing (light off). When the relay cuts off (big flow stops) the pipes to the indicators (earths) are still there and open and now the little pipe can happily empty into the indicator line bringing the light on, not really enough pressure to light anything else but it will earth out again bringing on the dash light. Ah hang on you have led's, these need nowhere near the flow to light em up and the little pipe from the idiot light will do it. If the dash led didn't help then stick the resistor in the dash light circuit, after the bulb before the relay.

Did you take a note of the key number? If you did you can order one through Yamaha with the log book / title. It should be on the ig barrel too but 30 years may have made it illegible. May be best to buy a new switch there are plenty online.

To be fair when I say under braking, I do mean BRAKING. Like I said she is really quite good now on the back and I can just ride and kind of forget she is there, then obviously when I jam em on into a bend she rests on my back. Size wise, erm? Dunno, slim and 5 10 is about as far as my dad brain can get.

Ok, you have hazard lights which changes things a little, the idiot light still earths through the indicators but slightly differently. You may or may not have noticed that your idiot light flashes when the indicators go OUT. That is because the indicator warning light is fed from the same circuit as the neutral light. When the indicators are turned on the indicator relay has an earth and allows electric to flow. With 2 indicators to feed there is a nice fat earth path for the energy. With the idiot light being fed from elsewhere that also needs an earth. It gets this earth by being connected to the indicator circuit between the relay and the indicator switch. Throw in some electrical principles (no I'm not explaining it.) and you will know that the earth the idiot light needs disappears while there is power to indicators, your light stays on dimly because the led's have nowhere near the electrical resistance of a filament lamp . Because of this lack of load from the 21w bulbs there is still enough energy through the bulb to make it come on if even only dimly. Your right with the fix, and reading this diagram a led will work fine, bell the idiot light again and use the 12v that is live when the indicators are turned OFF as your positive for the led and then connect the cathode to the other wire going to the relay. You should be ok with that, or fit a resistor after the bulb. good luck.

At 238 degrees I hope so lol. Degrees hat anyway, Kelvin?. No idea of the issue maybe the dash unit?

Kind of expected a Hawaian element somewhere. Welcome to the nut house.

You really want to ruin the lines of a sweet looking bike. For me. Stupid idea. Braided lines and blue spot calipers definately. Nasty headlight thing.. Nope.

Missed the 2 stroke thing???? Its still there, im in it, and if most people are honest about it. Even the modern generation of fuel injected, universal sports motorcycle riders will accept there is something about a sweet 2 stroke. There is an almost primal element. They feel alive but at the same time just a little risky. Im not using learner stuff that is not in the same game. Have a go on one. You'll see.

There isn't really a more scientific way with a description like yours but letting a bike dealer 'fault find' is the equivalent of a blank check. Pay what you have to to get it back as you will not get what your paying for. For what is worth you will be owing them for a full gasket set and coolant if he has checked the piston properly. I'm pretty certain his 'check' was a look up the exhaust port. The carb check may well have been cursory too. I sound unkind but its born from experience, I wouldn't trust a dealer to breath air let alone work on my bikes, the ONLY person I pay to work on my stuff is a friend of mine that services the car as it needs plugging in for the bloody service, get mate rates though. If you can give a better description of the problem, properly identify what you have done and how the bike behaves, also, that end can. The ONLY difference it will make is noise so its not that. First port of call for me is probably the ignition, so checking any connections around the area you disturbed fitting the can and working towards the engine and cdi looking for shorts/ bad connections would be a sensible start.

I don't like the phrase 'derestricted' as these bikes aren't to any real degree, more like a light tune, bike sounds lean to me. Especially the full throttle problems. I would agree with airhead on the fuel flow but if your working it really hard that main jet may be a bit stingy. Lift the jet needle up and see if it improves, easy check.

Yeah right. You have the 60 and the 62. There no better.

Why rebuild, carbs don't break very often if at all, parts do wear but it takes a lot of miles before it has a major effect. Like 30 odd thou. It will likely be nothing more than a tiny bit of muck in the float valve seat, had the self same thing on my bike not 6 weeks ago.

I was trying to resist, I really was but! Told you

Have you belled out the ig switch to see if the connections are as per the old one.

You missed out, we go out with her camera and travel down some really out of the way tiny roads. We have found some amazing places at 10mph a lot of the time. Little bridges, hidden buildings and some spectacular views around the Cotswolds. Nothing better on a summers day.

Sorry Dutch, I have lost people to cancer (3 of), MRSA, stabbed, car accidents, stroke (2 of) and a couple of heart attacks. The odds of hurting yourself on a bike are there, same as any other risk. Some may say its why we do it. My best friend died new year morning 2015, 54 "never get me on a bike too bloody dangerous". Massive aneurism, like someone turned him off mid conversation. Runner, ultra marathon nut in my village dropped head with a burst heart, dead before he hit the floor, at 26. Friend who died 2 weeks into retirement, he was a walker ready to do a string of hills in the peak district. Planned it for years was going to take a couple of months. Went to bed in the first hotel and never woke up! By the numbers I'm more likely to be killed in/by the trucks I drive due to diet stress etc. She is far more likely to suffer permanent life affecting injuries on the hockey pitch. So I'm riding my bike, stark bollock naked if I choose(give the neighbours a laugh), my daughter too if she feels like it .......and how with a clear conscience can I say no to my daughter, I'm a lot of things but no hypocrite. Life is too short. Pah to the naysayers. Worry, or maybe paranoia? destroys the lives of more people than injuries. I'm going through the pearly gates on the back wheel .

Ok, note in diary. Things to do when I retire? In 2038 if they don't move the dates again,jealous? not