Cynic

Works out as about 1cc increace and will make no measurable difference. Prob just a little low on compression. Looks ok is a poor method of judging a piston.

Copy and pasting across different sections just confuses people.

What else could it be? I have been on this forum long enough to have seen that question followed by. 'Doh found it it thought i had (insert something simple) but didnt.' A lot more often than you might think.

Ok. This is more out there. Crank the engine externally without the starter. Pull the plugs and with the rear wheel off the ground spin it and see what spark you have. No load on anything then just cdi dont use the starter just ig on and spin the wheel. Idealy in a lower gear.

Battery. Has enough grunt to turn the motor but not for a spark. You give up. Let off the button and the coil finally gets enough energy to discharge. (Spark). Batteries can be tricky buggers. Lights and horn is no guide to battery health. 10v will turn the motor as well as lights and horn but the cdi will sulk and wait for 11, even 12v before doing anything. See what the voltage is cranking. And immediately after cranking.

Should find them no problem. The thread is known as metric fine. Pretty universal. If you want to save massive future hassle get stainless allen screws instead.

Not really. 100 quid therabouts. 30 for the rebore, 20 for a gen top end gasket kit and around 50 for the piston kit. Or therabouts with you doing the spanners. Cost around 400 on my TDR. It may still be a bad connection but we need to check.

When they said were out of europe they were including the football. I seem to be the only person not the least surprised that our overpaid underskilled 'stars'. Lost to Iceland.

Kin el. Top result kev. Nice one.

Ah. The 'bright blue spark' was something you should have led with... Ok tac change. Did the plug come out wet after your attempts to start it. It would be worth looking up the exhaust port (after removing the pipe) as sometimes these engines clip the powervalve or the piston ring enters the exhaust port causing the same. That jams the valve and the piston damage loses all compression.

No it isn't run from a solenoid, its run by the cdi direct. Yes that could be pricy but your not there yet. Don't automatically lube cables as some are designed with liners sensitive to hydrocarbon based lube which can swell. Use a silicone based lube if you must. Unplugging the power valve should make no difference to the bike actually running, massive difference to power and rideability but it will happily start and run. Are you getting a spark? Or have you tested it on something else? I'm still thinking electrica not the cdi (yet) either. You have done things like checking the ignition switch is switching all its supposed to, wouldn't be the first time that's been at fault, or the kill switch, all go through the headlight the garage got wrong......

Sounds electrical to me. Power to the cdi would be my second check after making sure the battery was good. ie 12v. Check the connections from the cdi to the mag as well. Does the starter spin the engine or just spin.

From the photo its not missing anything drastic. Save indicators and with a splash of pattern parts, rattle can paint and a good clean and tidy only anoracks would know/care. Even though it is not profitable to restore these old bikes. In the grand scheme of things they are still a cheap project. I rebuilt the engine in mine (piston, bore, bearings and such) for less than the seals and gaskets on the top end of my tdr.

Frame is 1980, engine is 79. Just get the manual, looks like you might have an original exhaust there which are rare in useable nick. Seat base is plastic, they are a pretty basic good first restore, you can have one in bits in a couple of hrs including fag/coffee/pee breaks. Beware the swing arm mount, the bottom shock pin and the rear engine mount. They can be a complete bastard to get out. And yes round headlight with no cowl.

Sounds like its had little use, now its being used and the crud in the carb (modern fuel evaporates leaving a crust behind that doesn't re dissolve) is floating around causing chaos inside the carb. You need to take it off and clean it properly before moving foreward. One step at a time, def have a fuel/carb problem so we start there. The non starting/idle may well be fixed at the same time, can easily be the same cause (blocked idle jet).

Sounds like he connected the carb overflow to the carb breather, smart!! Anyho, if fuel is coming out of the carb overflow it is a near certainty that either the carb float valve is not sealing properly via either muck (most likely) or wear, (not likely). Take off the carb, you may be able to just rotate it in the rubbers (don't know the bike) take the float bowl off and check it out. It could be the tiniest of rubbish that will stop it sealing. Had the same on my TDR in April and it took longer to get the carb off than clean the float valve. Was a little black spec bit bigger than a grain of sand causing the problems.

Nothing for nothing I'm afraid, we had lots of people trying to sell on the cheap in the past. It became a real sore point with the site owner, were an owners club not a free ad site. You are very welcome to use the for sale and wanted pages to buy and sell at your leisure, with a small catch . You need to be a paid member to use the wanted pages. If I or any other mods come across cheeky ads in other area's then they are deleted. Selling for bigger bike?

Um? Me too. Instawha?

And where did that wonderous piece of bollocks come from. Almost every bike on the road will have had the throttle shut quick. Happens most times you use the brakes. People rely on it. The problem is in the carb. Some add fuel with the choke. Some choke systems strangle the idle air flow. Any way round its not the valve guides. If your adamant the carb is good no2 on my list would be a leaky valve from wear or off adjustment.

Im guessing headlight and such. You are aware that stripped of its bodywork your not revealing any beauty. It looks like what it typically is. A chunderace that has most likely been lobbed down the road and fixed on the cheap. Sell and buy a proper naked bike.

Yep. Although recoding in miles will be less than km. There should have been some sort of record of the change. It was prob noted in an owners manual or fag packet some time. What the mileage was at the change. Dont forget removing the device gives you a lower milage bike if it bothers you.

My rear wheel is position such that i can measure between the pillion peg mounts on the frame. When they are the same, the wheel is true.

Someone may have fitted a converter on the back of the spedo. Or a different ratio drive to the front wheel. Then the km's will be mph. Normally cheaper than a replacement spedo even if it does squew the mileage figure for the bike a little.

What bike is it.

My dads bike has the same type roller clutch and that sounds bad with a weak battery. The drive needs to spin up fast to really throw the rollers so they lock. With a wimpy battery they will let go once the rotation drops and slip, the motor is still spinning but not enough and sounds horrid as its enough to hold the rollers in place but not enough to turn the engine. And because its still spinning over the assumption is It can't be the battery? Don't use the starter more than you have to for testing or you will need another rebuild kit.