Cynic

Oh did they now, well, in my experience. Y'know Clarkson describes hire cars as the fastest cars in the world.......... Somebody else's that your shaking down is a very, VERY close second.

Nothing to do with the powervalve, air is getting in somewhere. You need to check for air leaks, may only be small. Popping on deceleration is something a stroker does when their is air going where it shouldn't. Check your cylinder base, carb and reedblock joints, did you remove and clean (and profile slightly) the powervalve, you certainly SHOULD have. oe gaskets used? Could even be the plug not sealing properly. The pv will have ZERO affect on the bike starting, no matter what position its in. If its healthy and set up right it should be possible for it to be started (carefully) by hand, I certainly can with my TDR250.

Tch, be positive, between them their 17, its fine.

Gasket paper and scissors will do it.

Oh man that sucks. Hope the wife is better soon as.

Nah, its what my old man fancied painting it at the time, the wheels were gold when he got it too? Tis all original though, except the front muddy (Actually CL175 the CB one has a cross brace each side), and the paint. Anyway I really don't like the paint on the wheels, a set of stainless spokes will do the trick there, will be asking for tips on that one, and depending on cost I would like it to be the proper gold. If I'm honest i would prefer its original blue, it really pops as a colour but with due respect to my old man, it was gifted after all I will probably go with the proper honda gold which was an option at the time with the blue and a red. Like I say rattle cans or professional depends on beer tokens. No I'm not selling, I will put a bloody sight more miles on it than he did though. So mint showroom look is not wanted, more appreciated classic like my TDR.

Here goes, the pictures are being quite generous tbh, or I'm picky. The failing paint on the tank. And the wheels?? Need shiny..... And the engine and its associated grotty fasteners.. Everything is just being eaten by time, the whole bike has seemingly just slipped through the last 20years, it hasn't much of any dirt from being ridden, but also as it was rebuilt its not caked in 30 years of rust and crap either. The little bit of damp and corrosion in the air is enough to have started everything down the road to destruction. Everything is a little bit faded, a little bit corroded but without the patina of wear, little odd to look at. Should be nice next year though as its only light cosmetics. Oh, my old mans one rule. Don't sell it.

Yep. https://yamahaclub.com/forums/profile/24445-speedshop/ Forum member. Rebuilds and repairs cdi. Give him a try.

Well its here, a rather dubious trip in a borrowed trailer that was 'legal honest officer' and its home. Not quite as I remember it, still the odd colour that appertains to be I don't know exactly what colour, Honestly I would prefer it back in the blue its supposed to be or a proper shade of the original 2 tone gold/white, clutch is stuck and the brakes do little if anything. Tyres are 30 years old. She runs, badly, thanks to a worn ig advancer plate. and some epically gunged up carbs I think. Still its all there. I was thinking of running it up to squires but it needs too much work at the minute and it would be an epic rush with shortcuts. My plan, tap Drewpy up for the number of the paint man that did his FZ or someone like. Then I need to rebuild both wheels with new spokes, new brakes, tyres and replace the clutch and the oil and fix the electric start. With a complete clean and as necessary change the rusted fasteners that need love. And acquaint myself with the polisher again. Oh, sad fact, she has done less than 500 miles in 30 years and the longest single trip was just over 30. Oh yeah, what is it? I hear, my dads CB175t, Its a couple of weeks younger than I am. He rebuilt it from a near wreck when I was 16, between you and me he enjoyed the building more than the riding. I know for a fact he had no love of the drum brake on the front. Anyhow, only the 3rd non Yamaha I have had in 30 years of motorcycling.

+1 if you can find a way to get nearly 50% more power from a 4 stroke engine with just a pipe and filter patent it. The figure is more like 8 to 10% if you really optimise things, or 1.4 hp. Utter waste of time. The money you will spend for even 5 hp would be prohibitive.

Simple, Fowlers of Bristol, its where the likes of Yambits and Web moto get the parts they have 'to order from Yamaha'. I don't bother with anything else, their delivery is shit hot too, next day often enough.

Its a datatag mark. Or sounds very emuch like the ones on my suzuki. You get a small stensil with the kit you buy and use some acid etching ink to make the mark. I put mine on the inside of the panels but some use it as a visual deterent,or just cannot be arsed removing panels. May mean its nicked. May just as easy be from a genuine scrapper.

All the tailpipe does on a 2stroke is reduce noise. You could chuck it in the bin for all the performace it gives.

Dont need to change anything for just a tailpipe. Tbh im surprised it runs if its stock with a 260.

Hahahhahh, you have discovered the physical definition of 'rare as rocking horse shit'. They come up but rarely and at gold plated prices, there are pattern ones on e.bay but they have a layout more typical of the later 125lc instead of the long thin expansion chamber of the original. they also , disturbingly seem to be chromed. Why a dirt bike would want a chrome pipe beats me but its a good finish to sand and paint I suppose. It may, if its an original pipe be worth getting it repaired by a decent metalworker. Oh and the 125 is identical to the 175 as far as exhausts go. So long as its an MX. The earlier ones don't fit.

The exhaust will be better fixed but a small leak will not hurt. I think the explosions you talk of are actually the bike backfiring. This has 3 causes in a 2 stroke normally. In no particular order. 1 Coke build up. This glows red hot igniting fuel in the exhaust. 2 Ig fault causing the spark to occur incorrectly. Lighting the cylinder charge when the piston is at the wrong point in the cycle. 3 Air leak. On either the carb or exhaust side. Primarily carb side with the crank seals being a common villan. The Yamaha DT also generates its own energy for the cdi. Not battery power. My next check would be the coils in the generator. As well as the pick up coil. Heat age or moisture could be causing issues.

Its not expensive if your doing it, ok maybe the headgaskets will be a loss but otherwise (if you used a smear of grease on one side of the gaskets) everything will come off ok. The only bit that will cost is the problem and if that is a tooth on the chain its free. At the minute its 150kg door stop, worst decision is the one you don't make.

oops, can see lubrication/heat issues too with the scoring either side of that badly damaged port. Can't see how the piston is undamaged unless it was like this when re assembled. Not sure how useable that barrel is, the top of the exhaust port has an important part to play in the way a 2 stroke runs. I think I might be looking for another barrel.

.25 is a really optimistic option, its only actually 0.1mm of material removed from the bore which is not much. .5 would be my choice, when my tdr blew I had to go a full 1.0 oversize because of the damage to the bore. You can get o/s pistons up to 2.0 mm so don't worry. If its any help the black around the rings on that piston suggest quite a bit of ring wear anyway, you probably only had a couple of thousand miles before she popped anyway.

Sounds like he has dt175 wheels he is shifting and sent you one of those. Check the width of the wheel between the bearings and the spindle diameter if your worried but spaces can be made and bearings can be bought to suit. But knowing how lazy Yamaha can be and the fact that a lot of the mk1 rear suspension is pretty much unchanged from the aircooled 175 I would expect it to fit right in. Note expect, I don't know for certain but the odds are very good.

Just post the first half of the engine number, simple. Plenty of folk on here will be able to translate that into the information your after, and don't use the log book, get the number from the actual engine.

Ah. So you say but. Last year i did the entire trip without needing oil. Had over 600miles on the clock before the light came on. Running the pump means you can be way down. Like 60 or even 70 to 1. Least i knew which turn to take.

Why?

Amen to that. Its dead easy to do. So long as the exhaust nuts come off easy your fine. As to economy. E.ay is your friend. Dont be scared of gen parts from fowlers there is little difference cost wise except for yam headgaskets and piston/rings. The pistons are made of gold i think. DO NOT SKIMP THE HEADGASKET. GEN OR ATHENA ONLY. Cereal box will do for the base gaskets and such. Make sure to re radius the powervalve as well as clean off all the crap that will be there. Like i said its an easy engine to work on. Dont even need to pull the carb. Disconnect pv , drain the water, 1hose, 6 head nuts (watch the temp sensor) 4 base nuts. 1 piston circlip. Im genralising a little but it really is that simple. Clean off old gaskets. Reverse opperation with new/worked parts. Leaving the piston gudgeon pin in the freezer for an hour helps too. As well as fitting the LHS piston circlip before you try to fit the piston.

Sure they dip right. I have had 2 imports ( not r1s ) and they dipped high low straight ahead.