Cynic

Cheers jimmy, that helps a lot. Didn't really know if I would be wasting time with the Chinese stuff tbh. Will have a look at these, didn't realise they were Spanish, just assumed it was another tin foil Chinese lash up.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-IT-125H-1981-enduro-Restored-Road-Registered-CR-KX-RM-YZ-/302173969986?hash=item465af8de42:g:9PoAAOSw-0xYW-NV Considering what it is I don't think its as dear as it could be, just a bit special.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172461717142?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT This is the kind of thing that comes up maybe monthly, 6weeks or so. This type not this bike specifically but they spike at the end and go for stupid money so far and the newer stuff (circa 2000- 2005) is 7-800. Getting annoying, folk just appear at the last second and swipe it. Almost certainly breaking for parts. Would prob bid on this one but its 160miles away so too (burned(not badly) and learned my lesson on a long distance ebay in the past) far but its the kind of thing I'm after.

Currently up on the list is the Aprlli@, the SX primarily. She is pushing 6 foot in flip flops and will look a lot less daft on something supermoto/trails. Missed a DT 50 recently that would have been about right but it sold privately and the seller hadn't cancelled the Bay page. Even saw an RD 50, was mint and way too much cash. Can get a more power (buyer beware) fully faired RS 50 for a lot less.

Still could be carb problem on bad cylinder (if it has carbs, what year is the bike). Have you swapped the spark plugs good side to bad side? The engine will need more fuel when it is cold and a stronger spark. If cold start or plugs are old the not working engine will have fuel but not enough so you will smell fuel.

Only got the one tat on my upper arm, my stag do was at the rock and blues bike rally. (98) Given the choice of a tat or a bungee jump? I took the tat, my mate took the bungee and cos he lied about his weight he got close enough to the ground (seriously about 4 feet we thought he was going in) to grab a beer from one of us as he went back up. Mind he was the same guy that pissed on an electrified fence. He's a loss adjuster in London now lol. I thought it would be a pshyco's dream analysis, 2 good mates one that would sooner get inked than bungee, and then a complete opposite.

Carb blockage in cold start system on bad cylinder.

You don't trickle charge till its fully charged. You charge a battery or maintain it. Trickle charge is a waste of time. Once a car/motorcycle battery has dropped below 85 to 90 % its officially fkt. It may well appear to work for some time but its performance will start on a downhill. Unimportant on bikes like mine where the battery has little worth as far as high demand is concerned but anything with electric start will struggle. You need to check the resting voltage with a good voltmeter. You should see roundabouts 12.2 to 12.6 for a good battery. Under 12 and there are problems, under 11.5 and its a door stop. Also, you shouldn't charge a bike battery with a car charger, the current will be a lot higher than the battery is designed for, even 'low' on a car charger can be too high. Explains where your acid went.

Yep thats the one.

Yes, if your building a basket case up buying parts from various places to get a complete bike unless your really bothered the later spec is the one to go for as parts will be relatively easier to find as it was made in greater numbers. Secondly, Y2k? Huh. The chassis numbers for 175's with a single shock start 2K4 its the numbers after that tell you the model code for parts:- -000101 onwards are 2K4 (1978) -010101 onwards are 2X2 (78-79) and similar (near identical) to the 2K4 both having the round sw arm and the above oil tank. -020101 onwards are 4J4 (80-84ish) look the same excepting the now square sw arm and a different rear shock. More importantly the rear mudguard section at the heart of the bike mounting the air filter, battery, voltage reg (moved on the 4J4) and the oil tank is different. The ignition also has a different stator and cdi with an extra wire in the loom..

If she has oil it could be either an air leak or an ignition fault giving the extra performance, generating more heat, causes the piston to overheat and either pick up on the bore because the piston has expanded past its limits or the top has melted through. The fact she wont turn over is pretty damming. An engine that is solid needs tearing down to find the solid part(s).

Used the cheap arsed blue ones for years, grabbed some rubber hose out of a couple of scrap rangie's in a breakers (they had really long hoses the right size for the cruise control, literally 6feet long) Then the unit can hang on the wall while your balancing the carbs out of harms way. They did my old Suzuki, 2 of my mates bandits and they are STILL doing solid service balancing my neighbours hornet and the GSXR400 a guy at work uses as his daily driver. Granted you get what you pay for and the carbtune is good but is it that much money better. Nah it doesn't do anything more.

Story heard time and again, oil runs out and for a short time the lack of drag on the internals gives a bit of a false impression of smooth performance. (I'm not preaching I have done it myself more than once, too much to do to check the oil, was ok last time) Then once the oil drops beyond the critical level, the metals contact, bearing faces go and she's dead. Large aluminium doorstop created. Unless your lucky the damage will be everywhere that the oil did/does go.

To delete it completely use the source tab in the top left of the reply options, the layout changes slightly and the quote box turns into lines of text and such. Delete that like you would any other text then swap back using the source toggle again.

+1 I have seen Andrewelvisfan grinding the undercarriage on his SR with stock average rubber so why bother.

Few years back one of our members rode from Ireland to Squires Café in Leeds, via Forfar (Scotland) and then did the Squires rally then rode back, well past 1000Miles in a long weekend. On a stock DT125

Use your user name instead of your e-mail

From personal experience with my dt, chances are if that seal is gone the output shaft bearing may well be partly to blame, (almost certainly if the chain tensioner seizes as it is wont to do) as well having play and possibly some unwanted material in it from the chain. Well worth checking, hopefully its ok as it needs a complete strip to change. The DTLC shares quite a lot of parts with the earlier DT175MX, obviously not the frame or tank but things like cables and smaller parts, a good chunk of the engine too. In the Australian/Asian market the DT mx stayed air-cooled long after Europe got the LC, not so many tree huggers out that way?, swap out the right parts and its back to a 175 air-cooled engine.

Good point, my TDR can crack 60mpg on a 70mph cruise, (bloody uncomfortable and dull as old paint). It can also break 25mpg on back country roads on a lazy summer day (happy days). 48 miles from a 10L tank is my record chasing my mate round the Cotswolds on his Hornet.

Well the resisted caps on my dt were 4k according to my meter.

So your 101 claim was nearly there, in kph

Waste of time, whole system holds less than a pint. Do the whole thing, better that than have it freeze. You will know if she is using water too, if you suspect check your gearbox oil often as the water goes 2 ways. Into the gearbox from the water pump seal or the engine from the head gasket. The bad news is neither show from the outside till its too late. Either running out of water and overheating or oily gunk from the gearbox breather all over the back wheel.

Imagine your bike with only slightly better brakes and 50hp. You nuts get hot. The screen aims the wind at your face and the seat is used for torture at guantanamo. But on your fav country road no matter what shit is dragging you down when the engine hits 6k you dont care. Your laughing.

TDR 250 (1988), DT175 (1980) and a CB175 (1971).