Cynic

Can't help if its an ITALIAN quality brand. Can I.

Dont see you have many options. Primary concern given your time available is getting the old one out. Other than that roll the dice for a 50 quid used unit on the bay of theives and get your unit rebuilt. That is the most economical way i can see round it. Or jump straight in with something like a hagon unit straight off the shelf. By all means try looking for ANYTHING tagged with RD350 that isnt massively inflated pricewise. You talk like the bike is main transport. If so you cannot faf about seeing what may or may not fit if the mot is so close. You need something as critical as a rear shock to work. Like tyres.

Be careful. Something running WITH mot is a good start. 2strokes are less complex but being fewer parts make them no less expensive. 4 stroke engines even worn generally dont need major work as a rule. Any 2stroke with problems can need expensive work on cranks and barrels can be worn past oversize. Some iconic strokers can be massively overblown on prices. Rd400 for example. A RD350b is pretty much the same riding experience but a tidy one is 1500 quid not 3 or 4 grand. Make sure you reasearch properly and buy with both your head and your heart.

Its just nasty chineese stuff. The best way for me, but I find electrics easy, would be having it on the bench with a battery and make a small bunch of wires to sim earth sw, etc. Bell out all the wires and then see what to do once I know what it does. Its a catch all item that can be fitted to anything from a 50cc moped to a 7 litre yanky v8 so will need some tinkering.

Oh did it. Interesting. Yes the blue coming from the bike is the feed to the headlight that goes to the main beam/dip switch. Looks like the green is power indirectly for the unit and possibly some of those connections like the indicators need earthing like the neutral light.

The blue is the headlight feed that goes to the main/dip switch.

If you don't mind, disconnect the green and see how everything works, whatever is wrong is an oddity. I still don't get why there isn't a proper +12 supply. Then try just swapping the neutral black and the green around. Any details of the unit, make model etc, might be able to dig up more info.

Welcome, same town.

So were nearer. What do you have connected to the red for the back light. You may as well put the blacks back as they are supposed to be. I don't understand why the warning lights would go out in gear. Could you video or walk through what happens when, in order.- From full off. Ig on, in neutral Ind on, both left and right. Lights on, Lights on to main beam. Put into gear and repeat. Sorry to be a pain. Im trying....

And what did the neutral light do?

Hmmm, ok swap the blacks around see what happens. The neutral light should stay lit if the other black is a clean earth and nothing else. Turning on indicators, main beam, the works should not affect it.

The two yellow wires need to be connected, one to a dark green. The other yellow to a dark brown (yeah I know). Basiclly the same wires that connected to your original indicator warning light. The main beam or blue on the new spedo needs to connect to the yellow main beam wire.

Don't worry about spare earths on the bike, its relative. Everything metal on the bike is a prospective earth path. Earth wires are just convenience. Have you connected the main spedo earth or 'power negative' as they called it to earth.

OK, Have you connected the system neg to a good earth. Then forget that one, then connect the black neutral neg to the sky blue and put 12v to the green then what happens.

Which wires have you connected for neutral, on yamaha's its an earth leg. As in the bulb has power and the neutral switch at the gearbox drops the earth to switch it. It could well operate in reverse if you have wired the unit backwards. Some bikes will have additional wiring to tell the bike which gear its in for say a gear indicator. Normal logic suggests an ig feed to the green and the black connecting to the sky blue wire to the neutral switch, the only wire of that colour on the bike. The best bet for an ig feed on the above diagram at least would be the front brake switch feed which is a brown wire, the connector should be 2 pin with a green/yellow wire (yellow tracer). The brown should be live at all times the ig is on.

Looks like your reading things wrong. Ignore the reed switch its for the self canceling indicators. (Rarely works). Is there a main +12 input to the new unit or just those wires? Next, have you put the main neg to earth and put +12v to each colour to see what comes on. Lastly. Put the neutral neg - to earth and + the neutral green. See what that does. With that info i can run you through it.

You need to show us the wiring diagram or tell us the details of the unit your messing with otherwise there is no way we can help. I haven't the faintest idea what a random brown wire on an aftermarket unit may be for. Let alone anything else,

Ouch. Would try that again more along the lines of. Name's Tony. Live in something shire and have a 125 tenere. 3 ferraris and a vulcan bomber. Then ask. One post statements without punctuation tend to be ignored.

Erm? Yeah.. sooner fit a kickstart myself than that piece of 'quality' chineese engineering. Shot answer, you need to get it off and see whats up. After some looking around, it shares some parts with the hondas wierdly. Its also much in demand. I have seen mention of it being the same part in the 660 raptor. Unconfirmed though. Can, IF the parts are in good general condition and its the type with the external spring be fixed with a replacement spring. From a comparable sized seal. Otherwise its the kicker.

Still better off with the 535. Lot of em so finding a good one is not too bad. The 125 and the 250 really are lacking any worthwhile perfomance. If your planning on direct access its perfect too. Stable bike. Broadly similar size and weight wise to the smaller bikes. The v twin wont bite either. 535 no question for me unless your trapped in the learner laws.

Try these. Granted their uk. They post worldwide. TYTrials PJME Fowlers Uk ebay. For the airbox your going to struggle unless your not bothered about original. If so search for dt175 airbox and oil tank in UK. If your after the complete airbox get the matching oil tank then the year is unimportant. Also Australian and aisian breakers. They had the dt175 up to the late 90's and things didn't change much under the skin.

There will be on motorvehicle wiring. Everything ultimately earths to the engine. You cannot use continuity much. It just confuses things unless you have completely isolated a specific part. Make sure your checking using a good earth when checking voltages. That is normally the cause of most electrical nastied on vehicles. Bad earths, after bad connections although you could argue its the same thing.

Fk me, that a hell of a baby step. Welcome to the forum but be bloody careful with that missile. Some proper rider lessons, or at least some instructor observed track days would be good, it will help you enjoy the bike properly so you know how to brake and turn. I'm not taking the p here either. You will need help to understand turning, braking properly, what changes and how in the wet. Oh, make sure you buy a proper lock too.

Great idea. There is one in the next village. Will give that a try, ta.

Welcome to classic motorcycling. What do you actually need?