Cynic

Yes, sort the accelerator, and clutch operation first, then ride the bike to see if you can stand the riding position which will kill your hands and shoulders as well as odd handling. Extending the hydraulics for the brakes is nothing more than a hose and the wiring is easy as long as you know how to solder. Although a switch panel somewhere on the bike and just the controls on the bars would look much neater.

Odd, normally its a bit of wiring trickery that interferes with the low tension side of the starter solenoid circuit. Wouldn't expect a 'click'. That would mean Yamaha used a relay to operate a relay, that's daft even for Yamaha.

Start a new thread after saying hi in the new members area, things like where you are in the world and any biking experience etc. This is an OLD thread. ps, find a new dealer this one sounds rubbish.

New indicator relay. Or dirty switch contacts.

Struth. Thread from the stone age. Locked.

Because its paid for and off the books. Its low profile motoring knock. Any serious damages that need the expensive lawyers that you said yourself were not there. That will be sorted in the civil court. Pled by post on paper. It never saw a courtroom just some junior court judge's desk. If that. For a signature at best i bet.

Hey Andy, where have you been?

Tried bumping? Also, 15 minutes chugging round a car park, prob lights on, loads of braking, no revs? Dont suppose you checked the battery?

Thank goodness for that the questions just kept on coming......

Why worry about 30k miles. I wouldn't. Its a good teeth sucking "hmm, not sure about the miles?" point when buying but other wise so what. I have a 50 I am fixing up for my daughter with more than that on the clock. The bike has its common issues as does any other, there what you look at not mileage, esp keeping that boost working well and the carbs happy. These are some links to more informed people, don't be a stranger though, http://www.vmaxforum.net/, http://vmaxchat.yuku.com/ One is in the US the other here.

It is possible to go up a little but because of the shaft drive the only way to get the bigger tyre on is with aftermarket stuff. The kicker being that with a 180 rear tyre unless you go really crazy and modify the rear to chain drive the wheel has to be offset for the tyre to clear the shaft. This means that the rear wheel is out of line with the front. On a drag strip running quarters that's unimportant, turning right on the street is altogether more entertaining. Next time I see my friend who is vmax nuts, he has retired and buys mot fails and abandoned projects and rebuilds them so they go back on the road. Nothing flash just legal and mot'd. fag money he calls it. I will ask him, he walks past the house 2 or 3 times a week. On a personal note, I nearly bought one of his creations. DEchromed with straight bars and a mild tune with big heads and a wonderfully evil crackly sounding pipe that was glorious on boost, shite off!. Stock wheels etc with I think some uprated (relative) calipers. They say not to ride your teen fantasy's but I knew they were quirky and was not disappointed, it was oooozing ' I know I'm different, loud and if you don't like it fuck off', was really hard not buying that bike. Things don't get me like that very often. His personal vmax is a candy purple nitrous thing with mikuni's forged this and that and 190 odd bhp at the wheel on gas (when the stars align and it actually runs properly). That has the huge rear wheel and if you ask me it looks daft. A vmax is all about the engine, handling is bad enough as it is why make it worse. Spend the money on the kit and know how to balance the carbs and set up the vboost properly that is far more important than a back tyre.

Limited knowledge but I can say one thing having ridden both. The handling is utter shite, proper 80's, heavy, REALLY heavy to turn in, brakes are kind of there and the tank spreads your legs like a back street 'lady' but the engine when it hits 6k esp with a pipe. Its all forgiven as it takes off like a 3hundred weight 2 stroke making your brain go '-----------'. Esp as unlike my 2strokes it neither stops or turns. Do you really need to ask about non v boost. They hardly changed as far as the years go, bit like the xj. Best advice I can give is get a relatively stock one, new as you can aford, maybe a brake upgrade and a pipe would be good with lots of receipts. Price is up to you. There too old to price realistically, its what your willing to pay. Tatty with an mot will cost you 1200 quid age irrelevant. Otherwise buyer beware

As pinille, pillin, pylinn, previous post said, jump on the brake light feed (basically the ig feed) brown wire. Will only take a tiny amount of juice so no overload worries. Personally I would go to the headlight, run a wire in nice and tidy. Then make a solid connection in the headlight (ideally soldered) with at least ratchet crimps and then connect the Speedo.

Ok, the blue wire IS the feed for the lighting and the backlight. Brown is the ignition feed. If you have running lights it will come on with the ig like main power.

When you say power and earth, are there any other warning lights and such in the xv clock as it may just be the power to light it up.

The dark blue wire in your loom is the lighting feed, brown is ignition feed. You should have a red battery positive floating around too.

I knew what it was just didn't know WHAT it was if that makes any sense. Like plonking the key on a piano makes a specific music note, couldn't tell you what note though. As I see it now M6 is 1.0 for metric fine and M8 is 1.25. The smaller M5, M4 etc are only one pitch (fine, although between .8 and .6) anyway unless you want to special order.

Slide back the small metal collar and pull. The collar may well be long gone so just go with pull. Use a pair of pliers but dont hang on it. The pipe can go hard and can make it tight on the spigot that can pull out. Generally at times like this people swap out the black pipe for clear so you can see the oil.

Don't mean to muddy the waters but I just checked in my manual and the F,G and H have lights on full time, the E has switchable lights. Maybe there is some crossover, like the points thing?

Unless you have measured the wheel centres to check its true or as nsd used (i measure from the rim to the arm on mine, easy as the arm is equal) or any other proper physical check not envolving those stupid marks on the arm your wheel is off. The caliper mount will pull square to the sw arm and the wheel is off, therefore the disc is off. Only by mm probably, causing the pad wear. The chat rooms are busy with rear spindle issues and chain alignment too on the 07. It needs checking properly.

Double check your wheel alignment.

And now the case has been proven in court you can proceed with a civil case for damages.

Thanks people that helps a lot ta.

Hey, just trying to order some nuts and bolts for the Aprilia and got myself in a cunfuxed state. I know bikes are nominally metric fine, but! I don't actually know what that is . Im seeing 0.8 coarse, 0.8 fine etc. But then there is 1.0 and 1.25 also in both coarse and fine. Feels a stupid question but what do I actually want. I have just got generic catchall kits for UJM in the past, never really thought about what metric fine was as such. I have all the big stuff, its all the abused and random or just plain missing bodywork and plastic mounting stuff I'm after. Not all that much maybe 20 units all told all like, 30x6 and 20x6 flanged hex's, with a handful of nuts too.

Hey, just trying to order some nuts and bolts for the Aprilia and got myself in a cunfuxed state. I know bikes are nominally metric fine, but! I don't actually know what that is . Im seeing 0.8 coarse, 0.8 fine etc. But then there is 1.0 and 1.25 also in both coarse and fine. Feels a stupid question but what do I actually want. I have just got generic catchall kits for UJM in the past, never really thought about what metric fine was as such.