Cynic

Plenty out there, bandits and gsxr's have been turbo's forever.

Not really the kind of thing people do to the 1100. From a horsepower point of view its no superstar its only 60hp or so. Not sure you would notice the benefit. Its no rev monster and that's what you need for cam and head work. You could regrind the cams you have I suppose and a good engineer can make a square peg fit a round hole if you have the brass. Honestly with image being everything on these I would think a turbo would be just as effective and look better

Would have been good to know the iceland bit at the start...

Xmax, ya cheeky sod. Awesome is the simple answer, need to update the suspension (maxton if i can afford it) as the carbon wheels are really pushing the stock shocks and fork damping and they cannot really deal with it Then it will be as good as it will ever be. Well as good as i can ever use. Wish i bought it 20 years ago, you can ride fast (enough), the launch from the line is NEVER boring, nor is the zero to hero stomp with the stupid hit at 6k, its like a quarter ton 150hp 2 stroke. But you can also nob along at 50mph pootling taking all the time in the world getting nowhere. Fuel consumption sucks although its nice getting 30 ish to the gallon from something 1200cc rather than 250cc

yep and the fact that things like stopping the tree felling in rain forests, no enforcement mechanism, no money to suport it and no actual penalties for doing nothing. The countries that are doing it will laugh at something so toothless. It comes down to profit, the big cats will be lining their nests right up untill the house burns down around them. On a personal note when will they stop saying we are saving the planet, the planet and nature will plod on happily after we have killed each other with our excess. We are saving US, and countries like russia and china are not helping.

Sr's that are fit and healthy can do better than 50. I would (going by the state of my daughters bf bike). You need to check oil, air filter, plug, cap, tyr pressures, chain, sprocket condition and if the brakes are dragging. Everything out of Japan after the mid 90's is capable of running e10 with little more than a mixture tweak. Try some super unleaded. If its the e10 there will be an instant improvement.

Hey lotty, posted a picture for you on the yoc fb page, (no copyright hassles) do you mean item 12?

Battery has nothing to do with the engine running on a dt, It will literally need one wire from the mag to the coil to run. Bought a field bike for spares in just that configuration. If you have a good plug, coil and lead then continuity down to the mag the only fault there will be the condenser or the points need adjusting or are fouled. I myself used to run the condenser outside of the mag on dt's i have had in the past, may reduce efficiency slightly but save a whole lot of ball ache when they fail, and far easier to change out on a regular basis saving the points burning through a weak condenser. Condensers do fail, likely the weakest 'point' of the system. May just be a bit of fluff in the jaws of the points.

Paul and I would have been up on the Friday but that weekend was a washout, you def got the best of the week. We can always use that place near Matlock as a base, needs little if any forward planning for a meet.

HaHa, i have been on here for years and am only an apprentice.

At 8500miles im guessing those tyres with a bit left are the originals, the front is likely chopped and the rear profile is likely well off. Add to that the likelyhood of being 20+ years old. I will admit to being a bit of a tyre fusspot, they are so important and people run them till the tread is on the limit when in truth they are actually dead as a worthwhile part of the bike long before. I always replace as a pair too. But then i ride a vmax set up for cornering so... After years on a super stable sports tourer you may need some miles to get used to the different style of riding.

Not an xvs pilot but i would suggest checking your spokes are even, your steering head bearings are good and unless you have a receipt or other info, look for the date code on the tyres and see how old they are. Low mileage cruisers/customs can easily have tyres 10, 15years old or more.

Did you put all of the cam retainers back in their original positions, i have never pulled a yzf apart but on my old suzuki the cam journals were line bored so they had to be refitted in the same location and orientation if a cam was removed. The clearances are tiny too so even slightly off the cam will stick.

I would be wary of the advice in the future from the person saying traveling the bike on a trailer in neutral is bad. You leave it in gear on a trailer (have moved one or two over the years) because it reduces the chance the bike has to move, that's all. Certainly wont change how it goes into gear. Common new rider issue and some bikes are renown for it, my vmax can be a right pig if its hot. You just got to adjust on the fly to the bike. Part of the skill.

They do, with the ig set to the base line of the bike your buying it for. On a tdr most people are just buying the pv controler more than ig because lets be honest, most bikes with a tax disk need little more than a tweak at high rpm maybe. Its the pv that is set conservative for rideability etc. We all want a bigger punch on the ride and if you can live with more brutal characteristics you open the pv earlier and faster. One of zeeltronic bloggers has done it, on you tube somewhere starts opening at 4500 rpm or so and wide open at 7 or so, (allowing for motor cycle time) will have the motor going at its hardest. Wont be the most civilised ride as you will be always on pipe, but it is a 2 stroke though right.

Put the air screw back to where it was, that is just working around not fixing the problem. Engines going rich if there is nothing restricting airflow (like af above) is spark strength. If a plug or coil is breaking down or the is an earth conection going bad the wimpy spark will not trigger the burn early enough in the piston stroke so instead of a strong hot burn you get a slow burn at lower pressure and temp which leaves a lot of soot/rubbish behind. There is after that the big ugly of a compression test...

This any good? Yamaha YZF750R YZF750 R 1993-1996 93-96 Engine Cylinder Barrels & Pistons | eBay

Same question posted elsewhere.

LOL, not many people know. A uk moped, ie 50cc bike is not legally required to have main beam. My daughters Aprilia did not have main beam, i converted it because the headlight was shite using kx 125 parts. So it may well not have main beam.

Thread is 7 years old.

I know what you mean have seen them before. It's essentially a long nut the one I saw had an internal hex. The opposite leg could be machined for that. Making a hole bigger is far easier.

They are ceramic bearings. A new set would cost as much as I paid for the wheels. No I'm stuck with this step. Worst case is some spacers and an oversize spindle with a nut but that is not nearly as pretty as I want it to be. I'm expecting to throw a few quid at making this work. I figure quality forks in a max is 4 figures so forking out for some engineering is expected its not a straight bolt in swap. You know what engineers are like they need to be told in infinite detail what it is you want.

Hey. Not quite a square peg in a round hole but I need to get a 17mm spindle to bolt up into a hole designed for a 19mm thread. Is for a set of forks, they use a 19mm spindle and my dymags use a 17mm. Turning down a spindle to fit the wheel is the easy bit. What are the typical routes to sort it, some sort of helicoil, weld it and machine a new hole? Not sure what is typical.

Good week for you mate, would love something like that but the better half would not like me clearing off for a week.

Your welcome to that.