Cynic

Tidy. Proper swiss army knife type bike. Others may go faster or handle better but as long as its healthy you could wake up and decide to do 500miles and off you go. Good mpg, comfy and enough go with, to be frank shit brakes. Solid bike. Old enough to have a loud pipe too and be legal. Ahem.... Minus the gold though, like you say.

Its common for the floats to stick if the bike is in any way jacked up and leaning over more than stock. Its just something they do. As soon as you get on the bike they free up. Not really a propper problem once you get into the habit of turning the fuel off as you pull up. But its a fucker to sort till you know.

No mate, on a 2 stroke the lower crankcase around the counterbalance is separate from the gearbox and acts as a pump to force the charge into the upper cylinder. A 4 stroke runs induction, compression, power, exhaust. A 2 stroke cheats making induction/compression and power/exhaust combine together, its why they need the expansion chamber and carefully worked back pressure.. The gearbox is all that the engine oil oils. There is no upper cylinder components like valves and chains and camshafts. Just carefully placed openings in the cylinder.

Fuel in the crank case on a 2stroke has nowt to do with the gearbox oil. Just pull the plug, disconnect the fuel line to be certain and......... wait....... say overnight, then (WITH THE IGNITION OFF OR SHE COULD GO UP IN FLAMES) crank it over by hand. If it turns ok do it with the kicker and if no vapour or liquid squirting out put in the plug and give her a few kicks. If the plug comes up dry see if you can start her, if not wait a while longer. Heating the plug first helps with a flooded/reluctant engine too.

Its what happens on some file hosting sites. The worm may have been making it too big. If you had been a 1 post wonder I would have locked your ip to protect the forum but these things happen. It may have been embedded in the image or just came along when I clicked the link from another source. Who knows why these wankers do it. Yes ok have a crack at banks and such but us little people, slime. Don't sweat it. I don't have anything on my pc I cannot reload (lesson learned after my hard drive corrupted all by its self) and all my important passwords have changed so no worries.

2stroke jimmy... If it runs then the 'fuel' leaking will be unburned carbony gunk you get when the pipe leaks or is coked up to buggery.

Already have slice, that link is incomplete. Will delete it all just in case. Had to run a full system scan afterwards. My antivirus quarantined it and I have deleted it. Hopefully I will have no ill effects, have changed important passwords and such just in case. Have made the site owner aware too aware too.

It may well have infected every pc you have connected to, check your system.

That's a redirect to a sodding ransomeware file. Thx for that. NOT.

Pic is no good. Doesent work.

It may well be one of those carefully engineered problems. It wont fail in the warranty period, not for several years, but when it does you either pay through the nose to fix it at a dealer or buy another bike. Win win.

Well, I agree its a monster for a first bike, I myself had a 600sports bike for over 10 years and sold it ultimately because I WOULD have run out of luck and or licence. Going, stopping and turning is only a very very tiny part of motorcycle riding. The main part is reading what other people will do and reacting. Example that happened to me yesterday, my daughter on the back, 50mph on a country road and an old fart overtakes a pushbike on a bend. He gave the pushbike so much concentration he was completely on my side. We had to pass between him and the pushbike. Gave the old boy quite a shock, probably still calling motorcyclists idiots now but with a closing speed of 100 to 120 mph and no certain option you have to react. The fact that I had my daughter on the back makes it even more vivid. I bought a 250 (a 2stroke granted) because, and I'm being totally honest here. On my 600 I would have been doing 100mph,possibly more, solo conceivably quite a bit more. Yes the Suzuki could out brake the TDR easily but that extra mph would have taken a lot of the thinking reaction time away. I would recommend some track days and finding some good riders to go on breakfast runs with. Not the rossi wannabee's but real riders with like most of the regular posters on here the scars to go with it. I'm not going to lie, I fell off several times. Got bends wrong, rear ended a taxi, ended up in a field. All on little 50cc and 100cc stuff so most of my hurt was my pride. Sorry to waffle, I hope you love your bike and make as many friends and have as much fun as I have. Just keep the grey matter switched on and dial the red mist back. It will happen.

Ah, so the am6 engine?. Those rectifier/reg units are not particularly good, the stators fail too. Good news is you can replace both for peanuts compared to other bikes, simple job too if you have the puller. Just remember to use a soldering iron on the stator screws to break the Loctite or they WILL strip.

On the Yam 2 strokes its a little complicated, the engine generates all the electric it needs for the coils and cdi on its own. Entirely electrically separate. The charging is like a lot of others, ac is generated this is piped out to the regulator rectifier, this is then clipped to dc and sent to the battery and any dc circuits like indicators/brakes and the full fat ac signal goes to the headlight. Have you checked the charging voltage at the battery, if it is zero then the unit may well be dead (barring connection issues) normally lights and stuff will go pop at the same time as the voltage becomes erratic.

You need basic tools and a haynes manual. 8 10 12 and 13mm spanners a 4inch adjustable and a small quater drive socket set with a couple of screwdrivers will do most small jobs.They can be found as a 'motorcycle' kit sometimes. Total outlay maybe 40 quid. Then as you tackle different jobs like chain tension, oil changes etc your kit pays for its self many times.

Wouldn't know an FJ clutch if you hit me with it but the double post is gone.

Sick. It baffles me. Nowhere in history has attacking the children of a nation worked. It just unites every man towards the demise of these nutters.

Wow, the wheels on the tdr have been in and out like a porn stars pecker lately what with offering these Aprilia wheels up. Fringe benefit was noticing the front caliper was sticking so got that fixed, nothing more than a clean. Much better brake now so it was long overdue, (slaps hand). Went out today for a blast, er, I mean bed the front brake back in and make sure she's all good. As well as get some fuel to use it for work next week and it just felt wrong, the bike or I was just off. I felt very vulnerable which has never happened before on the TDR. So to get the monkey off my back (I genuinely felt very uncomfortable) I pulled up in the first spot I could and had a lookie see. Usual crap in my pocket, small adjustable and some pliers so can fiddle when needed. Nothing loose, all good, and then I saw it. The spring for the chain spring link was missing, oops, rode home very very gently, only a mile or so. Just ordered a new spring link. I know it was me at some point splitting it to remove the wheel and not replacing it properly. So I suppose it was just my subconscious screaming at me that I'd fucked up, still a weird feeling though, don't have any rush to repeat it either.

Generally means we were right. likely not hear a peep till the next issue.

You folk down in Aus are soooo lucky with climate, that would have rotted to nothing by now in the uk. I like these old 750's. Would have one myself if I ever had time/space/wife permission/money (delete as applicable) good luck with it.

But if there was nothing wrong you wouldn't be posting this, you have checked the circuit by disconnecting the oil level switch and manually earthing it? And, there is enough oil in the bike?

Ok, so you should really be clinical in your descriptions of electrical stuff like this. Pour out the soft and fluffy in your introduction in the new members area, then! post your problem in the workshop area, where this will be shortly. You say riding for 5-10 seconds, that says nothing. Detail is everything, remember we cannot see or hear what is wrong. I personally have never so much as touched a bike like yours like many on here so we need the detail but engines are engines and follow general rules so-. Start the bike sitting on it, then lift the stand, then pull the clutch, then select first. Wait a count to 10 between each action. If its still running after all that push forward (yes with your feet), still running? now pull away (slowly listening to the motor). If you pulled of ok great, if it doesn't, remember which point it cuts out and listen to how. Does it stop like the ig is cut or running out of fuel?, can you still hear the fuel pump etc?

Just to add to the abs point. On the p38 range rovers (mk2 if you like) the abs brake unit is very complex block of solenoids and valves. There is only a physical action between your foot and the primary pair of pistons in the front calipers. So if the valves fail you get half of each front caliper operating and nothing else, on a 2.5 tonne car. Oh but I'm not done, the piston inside the actual control unit is made of plastic, that is not as good as it might be. It fails in time jamming the pedal removing even the minimum hydraulic assistance to the braking. I know of a couple of cars with electric handbrakes that have rolled away. No I don't trust modern electronics at all. There built to a price.

Couldn't agree more the only leccytronics on my bikes (all pre 90's)is the cdi and one of em don't even have that. just good ol fashioned points.

Either you have overfilled it, the breather is blocked or your piston rings are toast. Written in order of easiest fixed.