Cynic

The voltage at the battery doesent change, battery charging volts don't change. Coils tested ok, one quick test for you, start her up turn the lights on and disconnect the regulator. If i'm right it will bring the headlight on. VERY bright so don't rev the motor much. The regulator will be toast. Exactly what happend to me on my bike lights work then dont as it happend at the exact moment it was being MOT'd. If it had only lasted 2more minutes.

You forgot the special tool, Big kin amma.

THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL YOU WILL CHANGE THE CRANK SEAL WITH THE CRANK IN PLACE..............

All the bad points of a car with none of the perks of a bike, and you STILL need a full licence even with the coffin on the side.

More like a laxative if it gets it moving........

If you get it ticking over nice and even then give behind the mag a zap with WD40 or similar and see if the revs change. The WD is enough to seal a leaky crank seal at least for long enough to tell. It works too made quite a difference to the revs on my bike. Second using a glass of water and again when the bike is ticking over nice dip the crankcase breather in a glass of water. A long stream of little bubbles shows the rh seal or more likely the stupid little o ring has failed. I have used both of these tests and they are effective without too much spanner time to get results. Much as i'd love the credit for these two OG told me about them when i was having similar issues with my engine.

Before you get carried away. Are you SURE its not just burning the crap out of the exhaust etc. Have you tried riding through the smokey bit. To see if it clears, instead of holding WOT bring the throttle up nice and slow as the revs go up. If she chokes back it down a little and then open up a bit more. Till you get her flat out. Got to admit it would be an easy fix if it works. My 175 always got a bit smokey as she warmed up but it cleared after a minute or two

I don't know where everybody's facination with timing comes from. I have NEVER heard of anybody having timing issues that they haven't caused themselves trying to fix something that isnt wrong. Aside from which you don't have any mechanical timing components. Right, its getting that hot in 10 mins. Is that actually an accurate statement or a guesstimate. TBH if you have a good rad/pump/and themostat and the water stays on the inside it can only be the gague, wiring or the temp sender. Check the gague by shorting the lead at the temp sender to ground , or check its resistances if you have the figures for set temperatures, . Run a jumper wire from the gague to the temp sender to prove the wiring. As for the gague its self unless you have the test figures for FSD (Full Scale Deflection)you will need a spare from somewhere to check it.

Is the water actually moving round the motor? With the rad cap off (done cold) rev the motor and see if it affects the water. Over heating like you suggest is either water not moving or no water, how is the rad? full of cr@p? Is the cap OK. No leaks. Does the level drop quickly?

Makes sense if the shaft and the selector are fubar anyhow.

Need's a magneto is hardly a useable statement? need a little more info than that. As for go faster bits thats a VERY short list. But if you pull her about a bit and get us some info we can use there is no reason why you wont have her running soon enough.

Don't take this the wrong way folks but if it was fine before you messed with it why are the jets wrong afterwards. I don't know exactly how or the proper measurement to adjust the float height on your bikes but it will be discribed in the manual and will be a relatively simple job. I would still check all your other work as i've already said it was OK before and unless you messed with something on the floats then the float height will be ok still.

One thing to point out, you will only have power at the points when the engine is running. And then it will be an earth path so tricky to test. All of Dirty's post (er?) is valid but i have found using a battery can quickly clear up these kind of probs. First get a 6v fully charged battery. Earth the - to the frame/ engine. Now open the connector for the coil and touch the +. When you break the connection you should have a spark just like the points breaking. If not thats likely enough the fault. Work back through the loom to the generator/points connections and ultimately where there isn't a spark is where the fault will lie. Please be aware if you stumble across a dead short an unfused wire will get VERY hot VERY fast (you can weld with a battery) so an inline fuse is a must. It seems a little basic but it has worked for me on several occations. (edit) Hmm Having re-read this its not clear what i meant about a spark. Breaking the connection between the battery and the wire will trigger a response not unlike opening the points and causing a spark AT THE PLUG. The wiring will be perfectly fine unless the wire it's self is an issue hence the fuse.

Leson learned, give it a look over before it goes.

Totally agree, brilliant piece of kit. I've had mine for years.

Always needing choke to start is not a fault?? You are going to have to go thruogh what you did in reverse to find the problem. My money is something in the carb. Carb cleaning is far more than a quick wipe, it takes a long time with the appropriate soloutions, micro brushes ( very thin copper strands) to do it properly. And then it will need adjusting afterwards.

No you really need the engine earth and a more accurate meter although if its digital it should be ok, you will be ok with the brown test tho (fnarrr). The black wire to the cdi is actually the earth return to the magneto/generator/whatever. The ignition system generates its own electricity so you must use the engine as the earth or the readings will be off as there is NO connection whatsoever direct to the battery.

yes those readings are way out, i don't think it would run with those figures either. As for the black er? Get a nice clean point on the engine to use as an earth, the neutral switch is a good one as you can easily prove it first. If the neutral light is on the earth is good and just pop the little plasticy cover up and there you go. Make sure you have the metre on the correct range 0-20 for the white/red and the red wires and the 1000 range for the brown and then leaving the black probe on the earth point for all tests check the red wire then the white/red and after re setting the range on the meter check the brown.

As i understand it the boost bottle boosts (sorry) low/mid range performance and torque. Have you got the engine loom/cdi and the carb for the 2003 motor as well?

Sounds like he's trying to muddy the waters here a bit. Unless i've gone a bit dim of late (no comments please) by taking your bike to bits they have accepted to put your bike right. . It doesent have to be the supplying dealer. That should have been pointed out from the start if that was the case, he has taken your bike to bits for a warranty inspection and therefore is obligated to complete the work. Or at the very least return it to you in its original condition. I think the dealer is panicing, he can see the direction this is going, and its going to hurt the dealership in the end. There is the press for starters. This is the kind of thing MCN would have a sniff around. Bet that would have him spilling his coffee. Obviously the trading standards and citizens advice get dragged into the loop. I can sympathise with your pain, i bought a P38 Range Rover (Mk2 if you like) and the engine started going through water real fast, within weeks the engine let go thankfully close to home. The warranty company blamed ME for not maintaining the vehicle as vehicles 'obviously' need the oil,water etc checked so therefore i was negligent, £3000 that cost to fix, in PARTS with me twirling the spanners. I have always found going to the top works. Even stuff like contacting them for progress reports at EXACTLY the same time every day is remarkably effective. They end up dreading the phone ringing. The bike having a mechanical, fair enough. Yamaha relying on their dealers to sort it, understandable if not desirable but the dealer is messing about and needs sorting.

Yep thought so, an evolution of the aircooled stuff. The colours match the older stuff perfectly. Works differently but that is of no interest for this purpose. Cannot see the MK3 being much more than another evoloution.

Am i the only one on here who gets annoyed at the 'I posted yesterday and nobody botherd line' it seems to be on the up and really gets up my nose. I don't live on the bloody keyboard i dip in through the week and have a bit of a blast on the weekend. Thing is some of the answers can take quite a while, i generally only deal with the aircooled DT stuff cos thats what i know well but even then sorting through drawings and searching the web for the answers takes time even though you have a good idea where to look. The icing on the cake is how many times have been and gone where you spend maybe an hour sometimes sorting out somebody's post and then nothing. Don't remember anybody moaning on peoples threads about that. We just get on with helping the next one that we can help. Thats better.

I take it that the .06 feeler gague is a 'light sliding fit'. Or is it just fitiing in the gap. Aftermarket stuff generally isnt as good as the new genuine stuff, like those coils OG, but i don't think 2hundreths of a millimeter will matter on these old girls. Unless of course you want to go racing, but then you would get the pukka kit. Worst case it will be buggerd in 20thou instead of 25. The rings are the really critical part (insofar as any piston part is less than critical) and you said they are good.

No problem mate enjoy the bike and welcome to the site.

Now were talking, my tactic was (albeit with nissan) to calmly enter the store then tell the most important person i could collar in a clear voice my problems with their nice shiny new car. I did not swear curse or accuse just stated the facts. It cleared the showroom of potential customers and my car was fixed at no cost within the hour. Keep us posted this will be interesting. By the way the car has not missed a beat since in 8 years and 80 odd thousand miles.