Cynic

Yes i used to ride all year but it just f##ks the bike so i USE the car and enjoy the bikes, its even better when i have been in the truck all day to get out for the trip home on the bike.

Not bad for 22 years old.

Right oh here come the promised pic's. and the other side One of the many clean as a wistle nooks and crannies The notorious rusty (not) pipes Yet more disbelief, that damping adjuster turns with your fingers and the shock has its FULL damping range. Dont forget this thing is 22 years young. Suffice to say i'm f'kin well chuffed.

Sorry OG can't repeat history cos its now busses only. You got that right, talk about a bike with split personalities. Comfy polite one minute, get the revs up and you have a psyco on your hands.

Hey hey, the mid life crisis arrived today, A tidy 88 TDR250 pretty much stock (i think). I had a quick blat on it round the village (8-10miles ahem i did mean the OUTside) and its nutts. Bimble bimble ok thats kind of what you expect from a little stroker lets see what she goes like bit more gas ar her we go six thousaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Its like a switch is turned and its off like the back wheel has caught fire, just as much smoke too. Its got a lot more in it than i remember from my old elsie. Anyway whan the rain stops i'll get some pics sorted.

I take it thats french for a kick in the B....................

He's not wrong on the cruising speed, the 175 is lower than that at 50-55. I would be very surprised if the 400 is much more than the 250 TBH. Maybe 70, if you can handle the vibes and the fuel consumption. They were meant for point and squirt when dual carriageways didn't exist and there was only the beginnings of the motorways. More importantly a DT400 in the condition of that 250 will probably cost you twice that of the 250. 3-4 thou is not that shocking for a good one.

Its a feature of yours. First off, how long till the 600 as these type of problems can be a right pain in the arse to fix and if you are getting rid in a couple of weeks then like as not it won't be worth the effort if you can live with it. If the bike is all std and you have done the obvious stuff i would be changing the plug, if modern plugs need cleaning they are had it as far as i'm concerned. Next would be a new air filter as when that starts to choke up it will be at extreems like what you are discribing when it will tell. Lastly if there are still issues you may have a small leak somewhere, maybe a pinholed diaphram or a leaky rubber somewhere reducing the draw engine side of the carb but on a bike the age of yours thats unlikely.

Its something to do with keeping the vibes down and preventing the plates sticking. They should be installed 120 degrees apart. Imagine a clock face the first has the tab at 12 o'clock the second at 4 o'clock the next at 8 o'clock next one at 12 o'clock and so on untill you have fitted all the plates. Don't forget to start with a friction plate then the rubber ring then the steel and repeat. If you have it right you will end up with a friction plate next to the pressure plate.

Do them more regularily then the older grease keeps the balls in. Or bin the balls and fit the tapers as they are in a cage.

You haven't done your profile but i'm guessing you have a car or have spent a lot of time in one. Now the engine isn't hidden behind steel and plastic and sound proofing you are finding out what an engine really sounds like. Its quite common, it got me when i went from a 350ypvs to a 4 cylinder 600 as there is a lot more metal crashing about on the 600.

The best way to restrict the bike will be with a collar stopping the slide in the carb going too high Worked fine on GSXR11's and ZZR11's, Washers on the cable under the carb top would prob work just as well. Anything else will upset the carb settings etc and on a sensitive stroker like the YZ that can be fatal. You will also be able to gradually give him the power back as his riding improves. Which will be over a week or two probably By cutting down the collar/removing washers. The difficult bit with restricting it is making sure he doesent work out what you have done and remove the restrictor without you knowing.

Clutch dragging? Is it hydraulic or cable?

Does make me smile, a track that was deemed too dangerous for profesional riders to race on, is open to the public. The PC wannabee's are forever trying to stop the TT cos its dangerous but the demolition derby that is the nordishlef (?) is fine, euro double bloody standards.

The only thing that comes to mind is the master cyl. If the return valve is sticking that is the only way i can see this getting worse with the new parts. New caliper and disc make the brake opperate better than the old stuff so the effects of a failed master cyl will be all the more obvious. The fluid in the brake system has to be able to move, brake fluid doesent compress which is the whole point of it so it can pass on the force of you pressing on the brake pedal. If the fluid cannot return through the master cyl then the pressure will increace in the caliper, causing the pads to drag, this causes heat, that makes the fluid expand, causes the pads to drag, causes heat. You can see where it's going. Then the release valve finally unsticks and the brake works properly. You used the example of the bus, if you wound on the power to get past the bus that will cause the chassis, swing arm, etc, including the wheels of the bike to flex. Perfectly normal but this flexing WILL bring the pads into contact with the disk and we are back to the previous paragraph with heat causing the fluid to expand etc. I had something similar happen on the front brakes on my suzuki where they put themselves on when i got a move on through the twisties. Replacement master cyl fixed that. Oh and if it is the master cyl then you are entitled to ask for a refund of the unessesary parts as the 'proffesional opinion' is wrong. You may even get away with the labour for returning your bike to its original condition if your canny about it. Don't think you will be able to do much about the wheel bearings but the disc/caliper kit that was not required, thats different. (edit) I have VERY little faith in bike dealers, the small experience i have had with ANY motor trade people who i do not know personally has always, always been a let down.

People just dont realise just how dangerous the railways are.........

You gotta look past the bullshit, ask yourself this. The bike has impact damage on the tank and the side panels are all scraped but the bars are fine? the exhaust is bent out of shape again probably needing an impact and the rear panels are out of line, subframe? again all the damage on the side but the rearsets are ok. This hasn't been brought in on a truck just after the crunch. Someone, probably the pilot in the crash has been using it for a while and if your honest has started to fix it up and has realised just what it will cost to make it straight and outed it cheap. Buy a minter with your money even if it is older. This is hiding more that its telling.

Thats a little harsh, another of the must have everybody waiting for ME generation.

So you could call a Jaffa a quick reference guide, cake side ok and if lighter too weak, chocolate side too rich needing attention.

Its a tricky position, when i split the cases on my dt175 i used OG's puller and i was the same 'is everything loose' what am i pulling against? It all came apart OK though, as to the light tap described in the manual, that is suggested to remove the crank from the left hand case, all i can say is that if that is a tap i hope the bloke that wrote it never 'tap's' me on the head.

as far as it goes i did it the long way round 50 100 125 175 350 600 That lot spread over 20 years and with the benefit of all that, what am i buying next................... A TDR250. Personally i wouldn't give second hand spit for an R1. I know i could not ride it properly in any way in any place.

Firstly, post this up in the sports/streetbike section where you will get a much better response. Secondly i believe these gearbox issues are quite common in high mileage cat's i'm afraid, its not the first time i've heard of such.

Ahhhh getting old has at least one benefit, £88 for my 600 fully comp.

Live with the rattle till the pads wear out. If they can rattle then they are free to move. Wouldn't bother me. I took the springs OFF my suzuki's brakes to allow them to move freely.

Global warming melting ice caps, mmmmmmm There were dinosaus living in bloody pine forest in 30 degree heat a geological few minutes ago at the pole cap. I'm all for the emmisions thing thats why i'm getting a TDR250 and selling the 'clean' 600. And of couse following correct government advice changing to a smaller lighter vehicle!